Help buying a used Leica M6

[Wessie]

Hello,

I'm considering buying my first leica film camera and I found a store that carry a mint M6 Classic. I know if I go to the store I will end up buying it. So that's why I posting this thread before even thinking of going.

Any advice you guys can give me will be deeply appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Pickett Wilson]

Just buy it and get it over with. You know you're going to. 🙂

 

[bizarrius]

make sure you buy some film with it and a lens!

 

[ferider]

Have a look here, before you go: http://cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm.

 

[Wessie]

Oh thanks for the link. I read http://www.cameraquest.com/mguide.htm#M6 but missed the checklist.

Have a look here, before you go: http://cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm.

 

[ray*j*gun]

As many times as I have visited Stephen's site I have never noticed that list either. Its a great resource for all RF's.

 

[Nescio]

Don't do it. Think of what your children will think of you without their X-mas presents, as all your budget will go up in smoke because of your next "must have" lens.
And if you don't have any children, think of that trip to Paris or wherever you promised to your girlfriend.

 

[FrankS]

Hi Wesley, the M6 is a good camera. If you buy from a camera shop it should come with a warranty for a period of time to make sure there are no problems with the camera. The longer the warranty period the better. Now comes the price. Check ebay for M6 prices of completed auctions, not the "buy it now" prices you see listed. $1000 is a good deal for a typical camera in good shape. $1500 would be too much, IMO. The M6 has a built in meter. If you can live with using a hand held meter, there are other less expensive Leica camera models to consider: M2, M4, and M4-2, M4-P. These can be bought from $500 to $$800. (The last 2 models are usually black, not chrome.) Their downside, besides not having a built in meter, is that they are older and may require a CLA to ensure that the shutter speeds are accurate and the shutter curtains function properly without capping. Spend at least a week looking at ebay auctions every day to get knowledgeable about prices of the various models. Good luck! That Summicron deserves a Leica camera.

 

[Wessie]

Thanks Frank. I did follow some M6 selling on ebay and one was sold yester for $1230 canadian.

Hi Wesley, the M6 is a good camera. If you buy from a camera shop it should come with a warranty for a period of time to make sure there are no problems with the camera. The longer the warranty period the better. Now comes the price. Check ebay for M6 prices of completed auctions, not the "buy it now" prices you see listed. $1000 is a good deal for a typical camera in good shape. $1500 would be too much, IMO. The M6 has a built in meter. If you can live with using a hand held meter, there are other less expensive Leica camera models to consider: M2, M4, and M4-2, M4-P. These can be bought from $500 to $$800. (The last 2 models are usually black, not chrome.) Their downside, besides not having a built in meter, is that they are older and may require a CLA to ensure that the shutter speeds are accurate and the shutter curtains function properly without capping. Spend at least a week looking at ebay auctions every day to get knowledgeable about prices of the various models. Good luck! That Summicron deserves a Leica camera.

 

[Mister E]

Here's help, get an M2 or M3.

 

[umboody]

The M3 would be a better tool for learning. But if you want to get serious straight away, the right choice would be an M6. I now own both, and the natural progression from the M3 was the M6. Just make sure everything works smoothly and the viewfinder is nicely in order. Check the age. I got a 1985 used one on eBay with prism separation in the viewfinder. It's worrying, but hasn't got any worse in the month I've had it. Everything else works beautifully.

 

[ray*j*gun]

And then there's the light meter.................

 

[wgerrard]

The M3 would be a better tool for learning.

Why do you think that?

 

[CSG123]

Why do you think that?

I'm guessing it's because unless you use a hand held meter it requires you to use Sunny 16 to learn how to expose for differing types of light. In other words you learn exposure variables the old fashioned way which, in the end, makes you a more competent photographer.

Says the guy with an M4. 😉

 

[wgerrard]

I'm guessing it's because unless you use a hand held meter it requires you to use Sunny 16 to learn how to expose for differing types of light. In other words you learn exposure variables the old fashioned way which, in the end, makes you a more competent photographer.

Says the guy with an M4. 😉

Perhaps this is a sacrilege, but I don't believe the human eye can emulate a light meter. We may remember exposure combinations that worked in certain situations. Sunny16 encapsulates some common combinations that experience shows are useful in certain situations. I wonder, though, if anyone really learns anything that can be transferred to a different situation.

So, my advise to the OP, or anyone else, is to get the camera you want and learn to use that camera effectively. The M6 has a meter, so what an M6 user needs to do is learn how to use the M6 meter.

 

[splitimageview]

Just make sure you watch this first:

http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96219

 

[damien.murphy]

Hi Wessie,

Great choice, an M6 is a great way to start in rangefinders. My first M was an M6, mainly for the meter and the degree of comfort brought by an inbuilt meter.

My main piece of advice would be to buy well, as if you manage to get a decently priced M6, you should have no trouble selling it for the price you paid for it, should you decide rangefinders are not for you, or if you wish to move onto other M's.

I shoot with an M3 and M4 now, after getting over my fear of meterless cameras, and must say if you are going down this route the Sekonic L-208 Twinmate is a great, little easy and compact incident meter, and as one that brings it most places I go, I can recommend it strongly.

Good luck with your first M. If you are uncomfortable braving the private used market for your first M, buying from a dealer is a great way to go, as you are usually buying a guarantee of some sort with it should there be any issues.

Last piece of advice if you do go with an M6 would be to ensure you put the camera in Bulb (B) mode when you are not shooting, so as not to risk running down the battery when you have the M6 is in your bag. I wasted a lot of batteries that way, so learned that one the hard way 🙂

 

[kshapero]

Last piece of advice if you do go with an M6 would be to ensure you put the camera in Bulb (B) mode when you are not shooting, so as not to risk running down the battery when you have the M6 is in your bag. I wasted a lot of batteries that way, so learned that one the hard way 🙂

Good advice.

 

[charliedid]

I think $1000 to $1250 is very doable for an excellent copy. I like buying from original owners if possible. Just be patient and one will come along that makes sense for you.

Good luck!

 

[Leigh Youdale]

I suppose you can be lucky or unlucky but I bought a near-mint chrome M6 a few months back from a private seller on eBay in Italy for $1500. Came with all the original packaging etc and I have to say it's a beauty. Couldn't be more pleased.
Tips: - Set the shutter speed to B when not in use (as others have stated), avoid pointing the lens directly at the sun to avoid burning pinholes in the shutter curtains (happens with any Leica), and don't wind on until you're ready to shoot as the shutter can be triggered inside a bag if it's cocked (there's no shutter lock as on the Bessas).

And dismiss the sophistry of those purists who counsel against using an inbuilt meter.