Hexar AF thoughts?

It's worth pointing out that, just as with the Hexar RF, it's really easy to rewind a film and swap it (it will leave the spool out, as long as you pay attention). It's so precise you can make a note of the number, feed in the film later, and leave just one frame for safety. I tend to use this for swapping between color and b/w, but you can obviously swap different speed film too.

Of course, this might not balance out the frustrations others have expressed, but it's very useful - a feature few other cameras offer. Well, film ones, that is.
 
Hi Paul,

I know it and have been very interested in getting one: silent, great lens, great AF and great metering... A very special tool for sure. And there's just nothing like it... I want one, indeed... I guess carrying another camera with it is a good idea if different scenes are to be covered, and then decide which film to load...

Cheers,

Juan
 
If you just squeeze the shutter before letting the AF get a focus lock, it simply doesn't fire. Adjusting ISO and exposure compensation is a pain - there is a reason it comes with credit-card sized manual. The IR AF focuses on glass instead of through it. And I hate the power switch which always seems to creep to M when dangling from a strap.
It may be quieter than a SLR, but it's not silent by far!

It's been a while since I had a Hexar AF, but I would respectfully disagree - in silent mode, the camera is so quiet sometimes I was not even sure myself if I had taken a picture or not, even though the camera was right next to my ear.

I would agree that the interface design is a mixture of incredibly well thought out and obtuse - the functions are all there, and very well attuned to what serious photographers need, but it's not so obvious how to change them and some functions involve obscure button combinations (exposure compensation is just the up/down buttons, it's quite simple, the rest maybe not so).

Issues with the shutter button may well be because the micro switch is worn (can be repaired). I've had two Hexar AFs and one was perfect while the other had a sensitive shutter button which went on and off of its own accord, you would lock focus and then it would unlock as if you had released the shutter button, even though I hadn't.

It's basically the most perfect AF compact camera, as long as you can tolerate a relatively large compact camera. The lens quality and general speed of use are a league above any other high quality af compact I've ever owned, cameras like the Ricoh GR only win on compactness.

btw, I never personally found the 1/250 max speed a limitation even though I tend to shoot wide open and with fast film. It's not a camera to buy to use manual focus, which is awkward.
 
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I always used the Hexar AF for around sunset deep into the night.
Yeah, it's not the best camera for daylight unless you love shooting with ISO 50, but neither is a mechanical M since the top speed is 1/1000. That really limits your selection of apertures and ISO's during the day.
But this camera is in a class of its own in the darkness with some superfast film, shot wide open. It focuses more accurately and faster than a human can with a mechanical RF. It is without peers when its strengths are weighed against the strengths of other cameras.

Phil Forrest
 
It's been a while since I had a Hexar AF, but I would respectfully disagree - in silent mode, the camera is so quiet sometimes I was not even sure myself if I had taken a picture or not, even though the camera was right next to my ear.
Absolutely true. Even in a quiet room, subjects can't hear it in stealth mode when you're three feet away. There is just the faintest motor wind. With conversation, you can't hear it either. The only way of knowing the shutter has fired in such a situation is seeing the framelines reset.

I would agree that the interface design is a mixture of incredibly well thought out and obtuse - the functions are all there, and very well attuned to what serious photographers need, but it's not so obvious how
Again, agreed. THe main dial always reverts to exposure comp, though. Another simple tip is to let the camera go to sleep, rather than turning it off, to retain settings.

Thanks for that lovely colour shot. I wish I'd explored the AF more with color, altho you've reminded me I've a roll of fujichrome from a NY-Miami travelogue I need to get processed.
 
The 1/250 max shutter speed was not an issue at all for me. But I found frame lines very inaccurate, significantly worse even than Leica M6. Yes, I know it has parallax compensation. I never liked the finder, sold the camera after using it for a few assignments. But I know I am in the minority, everyone seems to love this camera. For this kind of shooting, I much prefer the Leica. For the sort of work I do, which I print with full black borders, the Leica gives me enough accuracy but not the Hex.
 
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I never personally found the 1/250 max speed a limitation even though I tend to shoot wide open and with fast film.

?

With Tri-X (not real fast film) on direct sun, for 1/125 or 1/250 you must shoot at f/11-f/16...

On overcast at around f/8...

To shoot with fast film and wide open I need a dark church or night scenes...

Cheers,

Juan
 
I really appreciate everyone's input (and please feel free to keep discussing this camera even if I've made a decision). I think, for my purposes, it will do quite nicely even with the 1/250th shutter speed limitation.
 
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I really appreciate everyone's input (and please feel free to keep discussing this camera even if I've made a decision). I think, for my purposes, it will do quite nicely even with the 1/250th shutter speed limitation.

it does sound like you'd enjoy a Hexar AF. don't get me wrong, it's a GREAT camera, and gets the perfect shot almost every time - it was a difficult decision to part with mine, but I want to focus on one camera each for 35mm and MF (Leica CL and Pentax 67II). I never had an issue with the 1/250 shutter speed, though I used a ND filter as I didn't want to be forced to stop down all the way so often. the AF is VERY fast, and almost always hit perfectly, though shooting through glass of course was an annoyance. It's the most evolved, highest quality (measured by output) point and shoot in existence, with as much well though out user input into exposure as I believe possible for such a thing - and that leaf shutter is quite as hell and allows for extremely slow shutter speeds handheld. I guess AF and I just don't get along so well after all, and unique as the signature is (well, that and what it's a copy of!), the lens is very nice, but not my favorite.

That said, AE and I ARE good friends - my MF camera of choice is the Pentax 67II with AE prism, and the CL beat every Leica save the M7 out purely on the quick and intuitive near-spot metering and well-placed shutter speed dial that let's you keep the camera to your eye when adjusting exposure. The only things it beat the M7 on are size (nice) and price (deal-breaker in my world at the moment).
 
it is the best camera to take picture of the photographer (your self)..
it will focus close enough (0.6m), it will focus perfectly accurate on your face, it will expose it correctly, and you can't do it with other RF..

outdoor it will be an "all sharp" camera, indoor it will be "bokeh" camera
make sure you use ND and drop iso the same stop as the ND do.
a better solution is to have both HAF and HRF, like what I did, HAF for indoor, HRF for outdoor.
 
for get to say, it has a SPOTMETER in manual mode (inner point of the cross hair) !!!! a very nice feature i like.
even in normal P/A mode, it's metering area is the outer point of the cross hair (semi spot ?)
Once you focus to a object, it will also measure the light of the object (like AF and AE linking together) and LOCK it !

that's why I don't think I have problem with metering of HAF, always spot on
 
It's been a while since I had a Hexar AF, but I would respectfully disagree - in silent mode, the camera is so quiet sometimes I was not even sure myself if I had taken a picture or not, even though the camera was right next to my ear.
[...]

btw, I never personally found the 1/250 max speed a limitation even though I tend to shoot wide open and with fast film. It's not a camera to buy to use manual focus, which is awkward.

Ok, agreed. Silent mode is silent. Either I have sensitive ears or the servos or gears are worn out in my model, but it is pretty audibile in normal mode. Because AF and film winding is slower in silent mode, I hardly activate it (and because I can't remember the key presses).

I was also surprised that the 1/250 max shutter was never an issue for me. Partly because of the surperb P mode. I just keep it in f/2 or f/2.8 and it only closes the aperture if 1/250 isn't fast enough.
 
Hi Paul,

I know it and have been very interested in getting one: silent, great lens, great AF and great metering... A very special tool for sure. And there's just nothing like it... I want one, indeed... I guess carrying another camera with it is a good idea if different scenes are to be covered, and then decide which film to load...

Cheers,

Juan

Juan,

they are so cheap now that you can easily buy two for different speeds.
The handling can be a bit awkward (tiny buttons) but there's nothing wrong with the images. My number one travel camera (together with the fuji gs645, hexar rf, Bronica rf............vita brevis)

Nijn617 by wim_b, on Flickr
 
With Tri-X (not real fast film) on direct sun, for 1/125 or 1/250 you must shoot at f/11-f/16...

On overcast at around f/8...

To shoot with fast film and wide open I need a dark church or night scenes...

Strange but true - I never once found the low top shutter speed a limitation, depends on what and how you shoot I guess.

Plus it's not as sunny where I live as in Barcelona 😉
 
Best 35mm camera ever 🙂
Ok, for my needs, which is basically street/walkabout and I do not care about bokeh. It is basically the only camera I know that I can touch nothing but the shutter button all day and be 100% confident that the camera will make all decisions I would make. I just set it to P & f2 and thats about it. If it is bright it will max out shutter speed and then start dropping aperture, if it is dark it will max out aperture and then start dropping shutter speed. Sweet, thats what I do too.

Focusing is a little bit better than your best RF. With a Leica you focus in the center and recompose, with the Hexar you only recompose because the focusing in the center bit is done by the camera. And the AF never hunts, not even in total darkness. It is the only AF in camera history that never hunts.

Anyway I luv my hexar 🙂

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what about spare parts and service???
You might want to contact http://www.kameraklinik.de/ . They did a competent CLA job on my Hexar AF. They told me they had bought up all Konica spares when KoMi had stopped its operations in Germany

PS: Not affiliated with them - just a satisfied customer. When communicating with them, do give them phone calls - apparently, they're not too efficient answering emails.
 
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