How did HCB determine exposure?

I have the habit of using a meter, sometimes I use sunny 16 which is about four week a year in Belgium.

What is starting to go well now is adjusting exposure from a previous metering, I envy previous posters who master this craft.

Wim
 
In a book titled (I think) "Trio", the writer and editor John Malcolm Brinnin describes HCB at their first meeting as having a light meter on a wrist strap. HCB checked the meter constantly. HCB convinced Brinnin to work on a book project with him soon after. Brinnin ended up as the car driver/assistant on a cross-USA photo tour.

Edit: I was half right: the book is "Sextet", 1981. The road trip took place in 1946.
 
Last edited:
HCB didn't determine exposure, he made the planet do what he wanted it to do for each frame.
Joking aside, I'd bet a large sum that after working for so long, it was just experience. A meter in the earlier days I'd guess.
 
If HCB lived in present day, would he choose a G10, an X1 or an M9? 😉

Trolling apart, as I see it, his thing was to capture the moments as he could, not necessarly in focus or with proper exposure. of course he'd probably try to get them as best as possible, but realised that the moment is bigger than the technical perfection. So it really didn't (and, well, doesn't) matter if the shots were out of focus, blurred, under or overexposed, as long as it captured the moment.
 
If HCB was so concerned with "the moment," maybe he would choose the new Alpha 55, with no mirror blackout and a speedy 10fps.

Or maybe he would be shooting street scenes with a Phantom high speed HD camera. If you shoot into a crowd at 1000 fps, there's bound to be a decisive moment or two in there. 😉
 
IIRC, I've read that, for outdoors, he'd use f/8, 1/125 sec, 4 meters. Then the master printer who handled the negs would fix everything. Remember that with the old neg films, you could view them partway through development under the safelight, and let them soak longer if necessary... a primitive version of "auto ISO." 🙂
 
Last edited:
If HCB was so concerned with "the moment," maybe he would choose the new Alpha 55, with no mirror blackout and a speedy 10fps.

Or maybe he would be shooting street scenes with a Phantom high speed HD camera. If you shoot into a crowd at 1000 fps, there's bound to be a decisive moment or two in there. 😉

You would be surprised. He may suffer in the digital era out of his element. comfort zone.
 
Because he tended to use the same camera, the same lens(es) and the same film, I think that he became very accustomed to the exposure required for certain scenes.

And that holds true for those here who use just one camera, one lens and one type of film.

Throw that person a roll of FP4, Pan F, Portra 160 or TMax 100 and see what happens.

I generally rely on a meter. But the best meter can be helped by knowing how to interpret that reading, particularly in tricky lighting situations.
 
I'm sorry, but I would prefer to stay on topic. The original question is one of historical interest. I care not a bit about a discussion involving HCB and modern digital cameras.:angel:

That said, so far it appears that some think he never used a meter and some think he had some help. If he had a meter, which one would most likely have been?
 
I'm sorry, but I would prefer to stay on topic. The original question is one of historical interest. I care not a bit about a discussion involving HCB and modern digital cameras.:angel:

That said, so far it appears that some think he never used a meter and some think he had some help. If he had a meter, which one would most likely have been?
Most likely something small and covenient like a Digisix 😀.
 
You should just try shooting without a meter for a roll of film. Use print film of course, no slide film. Outdoors is pretty easy using "sunny f16," as long as you are not in the dawn/twilight time. There are only about six options, LV10-LV15, and you can be off by a stop without major problems. In other words, you can use just two positions, LV11 (covers LV10-LV12) and LV14 (covers LV13-LV15). Basically, it boils down to "outdoors in sunlight with shadows" or "outdoors with overcast, no shadows, or shooting in shade during a sunny day." Pretty easy right? Indoors, you're at LV5 at normal bright light at night. The tricky exposures are indoors during the day with window light, and outdoors around dawn and dusk.

You normally set exposure for the available light, so you don't have to change it for every shot, unless you go from sunlight to shade.

Some people have found that they can overexpose modern color print film by FIVE STOPS (!!!) and get a result that is perfectly acceptable (for snapshots).

If you have issues with guessing exposure, then go buy a Holga or a Brownie box camera or a disposable film camera, which has essentially only one exposure. Or set up your camera likewise, at 1/125 and f/11 at ISO400 (LV12). You will get some sort of half-decent result. Once you see what you can do with just one fixed exposure, it becomes a lot less threatening.

Digital -- and high-contrast slide film like Velvia -- is much trickier. You need near-perfect exposure. Every 1/3 stop counts. Fortunately, we can look at the rear screen histogram, so it is easy to dial it in.
 
Last edited:
I cannot understand why one should not use a light meter. For one Sunny 16 is exactly the time when any photographer who knows a bit about light would avoid photographing. Secondly, most of us don't live in Sunny 16 countries and don't have sunny 16 weather all the time.

But anyway, there is no pride in guess work. I always use a light meter.
 
I always use a meter if my camera has a meter. However, I think it is good to know how to make a photo without relying on a meter too. When I use meterless cameras, I will sometimes go out without a meter. However, if someothing is very important, I will use a meter.
 
I cannot understand why one should not use a light meter. For one Sunny 16 is exactly the time when any photographer who knows a bit about light would avoid photographing. Secondly, most of us don't live in Sunny 16 countries and don't have sunny 16 weather all the time.

But anyway, there is no pride in guess work. I always use a light meter.

"Sunny 16" doesn't mean that you only shoot in bright daylight! It means that you use that as a starting point for exposure. "Bright sunlight" is LV15. However, it is a cloudy day without shadows, or LV12. You are using ISO400 film. From this you calculate that at LV15 and ISO400, you use f/16 and 1/400 (in practice 1/500) speed. You can also use f/11 and 1/1000 or f/22 and 1/250. LV12 is three stops below LV15, so you increase the exposure by three stops. This could be f/8 and 1/250, or f/4 and 1/1000, or a lot of other combinations. This is "sunny f16."

If you don't know how to do that, I guess you would need a meter.
 
"Sunny 16" doesn't mean that you only shoot in bright daylight! It means that you use that as a starting point for exposure. "Bright sunlight" is LV15. However, it is a cloudy day without shadows, or LV12. You are using ISO400 film. From this you calculate that at LV15 and ISO400, you use f/16 and 1/400 (in practice 1/500) speed. You can also use f/11 and 1/1000 or f/22 and 1/250. LV12 is three stops below LV15, so you increase the exposure by three stops. This could be f/8 and 1/250, or f/4 and 1/1000, or a lot of other combinations. This is "sunny f16."

If you don't know how to do that, I guess you would need a meter.

I read somewhere that a famous war photographer would stand up in the middle of bullets flying and take a exposure reading. Somebody asked him are you crazy, the photographer said, if i'm here risking my life, i bloody as well take properly exposed pictures... the point is a thorough photographer leaves nothing to guess work.
 
Back
Top Bottom