Lord Fluff
Established
I am interested to know how you personally tend to use a lens which is RF coupled but has a separate VF. Do you focus, then compose, compose then focus, or just range-focus with enough DOF to get what you want?
I'm considering the Voigtlander 21mm skopar, which seems to produce great results from what I have seen, but I'm not sure if in practice it is annoying having to contend with two viewfinders.....
I'm considering the Voigtlander 21mm skopar, which seems to produce great results from what I have seen, but I'm not sure if in practice it is annoying having to contend with two viewfinders.....
R
Roberto
Guest
I personally focus and then compose..
R.
R.
Niko
Established
I never focused these super-wides with a rangefinder (actually, not even on SLR´s). Scale-focusing is quite accurate enough, imo.
Niko
Niko
mr_phillip
Well-known
I tend to agree with Niko. When using super-wide lenses at less-than-fast apertures (like f4 and down) I find scale focusing accurate enough. When using medium-wide or faster lenses (like the 28mm Ultron at f2) I focus, then compose.
oscroft
Veteran
Before I got my R4A (which has a 21mm frame) I used my CV 21 (and CV 25) on a Bessa-L and just used hyperfocal distance, and it was fine. The only thing I don't like about using an external viewfinder is parallax error, and I found having to allow for it was reducing the effective field of view that I could use.
Bill58
Native Texan
I set the aperature to about 5.6 or 8.0, pre-focus at about 6 feet, then shoot "up close and personal" on the street using external VF ONLY.
pvdhaar
Peter
My widest RF lens is the uncoupled 25/4, so there's no alternative to scale focusing there. On my SLR, the widest lens I have is a manual focus 17mm. But even though the SLR allows me to focus on the viewfinder screen and also with the >o< display, I never bother.. it's just too distracting. If I am using the 17, I'm very very close to the action; keeping the subject framed and timing the shot is challenge enough..
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Focus/compose, but with a 'finger-spar' lens like the 21/4 you don't even need to scale focus. After a while you know what position of the spar corresponds to what distance.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Don't forget that metering can get a little tricky if there's a lot of sky in the frame -- err on the side of overexposure (meter by pointing downward).
Paul C. Perkins MD
Perk11350
Focus - Compose - Shoot.
Parallax isn't an issue.
You can - by setting the lens at some distance within the DoF of your F-stop - even forgo focusing. Then it becomes.
Compose - Shoot.
Paul
Parallax isn't an issue.
You can - by setting the lens at some distance within the DoF of your F-stop - even forgo focusing. Then it becomes.
Compose - Shoot.
Paul
maddoc
... likes film again.
Paul C. Perkins said:Focus - Compose - Shoot.
Parallax isn't an issue.
You can - by setting the lens at some distance within the DoF of your F-stop - even forgo focusing. Then it becomes.
Compose - Shoot.
Paul
Same here. Stopped down to f/5.6 or f/8 just pre-focus and shot, sometimes using the external (CV) 21mm VF. My 21 is the Super-Angulon, so metering not possible with cameras like M6 or MP.
skahde
V for Victory!
As composing close up might involve some relevant going back and forth I compose first, focus, recompose a the fixed distance and shoot. But this is with a 35mm. With a 21mm and stopped down I'd just scale-focus.
Stefan
Stefan
leon
Member
like most it seems, I nearly always have it set on f8 and using the hyperfocal marks, I set infinity on f8 and leave it there - mind you, mine is usually on my bessa L so I dont have any other choice.
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