John Bragg
Well-known
Returning to HP5+ has been a blast. I am delighted with my first results from this film in a long long time. As others here have done, I developed it like Tri-X. I need a credible alternative if Kodak pulls the plug and this is it !
Michael Markey
Veteran
After trying lots of different films I now concentrate on HP5 and TriX.
John Bragg
Well-known
I had also settled on Neopan, but that was then !After trying lots of different film I now concentrating on HP5 and TriX.
semrich
Well-known
I have been shooting HP5 since 2007, and from time to time some Tri-X, and a smattering of Nepan 400 & 1600. I like B&W film and support Ilford as a company dedicated to this by using their films, developers, fixers, and papers in the darkroom, they all produce results I'm pleased with.
Sparrow
Veteran
I've always liked hp5 ... I just find it easier to print, it makes nice flat'ish negs, the odd times I've used tri-x I seem to end up fighting with too much contrast
shortstop
Well-known
HP5 has been my most frequently used film. I had prejudice about TMY, but I tried some time ago and now is my preferred 400 Iso.
I used also TriX (the myth), but HP5 is better to me.
Also Ilfordlab is a good service that Ilford gives to us film lovers.
I used also TriX (the myth), but HP5 is better to me.
Also Ilfordlab is a good service that Ilford gives to us film lovers.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
My all time Favorite Film was neopan 1600 ...sigh
Now its TMAX 100 & 400
As of late been Working with HP5.... Though I am having way too much Grain for my Taste
( i mean a little grain can be Fine but these are tres heavy grain )
Been dong very little agitation ,20C/ DDX developer / 1+4 / 10 mins
Shou,d i shoot it at 200 , different developer ???
Any tips/suggestions for less Grain will be Greatly appreciated
Now its TMAX 100 & 400
As of late been Working with HP5.... Though I am having way too much Grain for my Taste
( i mean a little grain can be Fine but these are tres heavy grain )
Been dong very little agitation ,20C/ DDX developer / 1+4 / 10 mins
Shou,d i shoot it at 200 , different developer ???
Any tips/suggestions for less Grain will be Greatly appreciated
John Bragg
Well-known
My all time Favorite Film was neopan 1600 ...sigh
Now its TMAX 100 & 400
As of late been Working with HP5.... Though I am having way too much Grain for my Taste
( i mean a little grain can be Fine but these are tres heavy grain )
Been dong very little agitation ,20C/ DDX developer / 1+4 / 10 mins
Shou,d i shoot it at 200 , different developer ???
Any tips/suggestions for less Grain will be Greatly appreciated![]()
Hi Helen. I had instant success with 12 mins in HC-110 dilution H at 20c for my personal Ei of 200. I give 15 seconds agitation to start, and then only 2 inversions at 4 mins and 2 more at 8 mins then empty tank at 12 mins. Thats it. My last 5 images on flickr were made like this. Grain is well controlled but sharp as a tack, just like I remember from Neopan. Hope this helps.
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
I always struggled to control grain with HP5 Helen, I found shooting at EI 320 and stand dev'ing to work best for me (using DDX too.) For some reason it and I never quite hit it off and Tri X worked more favourably for me.
Completely agree with Richard too regarding Ilford, a company well worth backing.
Completely agree with Richard too regarding Ilford, a company well worth backing.
Michael Markey
Veteran
I guess I`m very much the odd man out in this in that I don`t enjoy trying different films and developers .
Maybe its because I shot K64 for thirty years .
If I am going to develop a film I want something which is straight forward with a reasonably predictable outcome.
Maybe its because I shot K64 for thirty years .
If I am going to develop a film I want something which is straight forward with a reasonably predictable outcome.
John Bragg
Well-known
+1 with keeping it simple Michael. I only use HC110 these days. As for film, it has been Tri-X for years, but I also believe in having an ace up my sleeve just in case.I guess I`m very much the odd man out in this in that I don`t enjoy trying different films and developers .
Maybe its because I shot K64 for thirty years .
If I am going to develop a film I want something which is straight forward with a reasonably predictable outcome.
02Pilot
Malcontent
I've been jumping back and forth between HP5+ and Tri-X since prices of the latter have been rising steadily. I've been shooting HP5+ at 200 and developing in Caffenol-C-H (RS) 15min@20C, agitate first full minute then 10 seconds per minute thereafter (and using the exact same procedure for Tri-X, FWIW). Grain seems pretty well-controlled to my eye, but then I prefer traditional grain films. Slightly lower contrast than Tri-X, and flatter, making for easier scanning. Certainly a credible alternative IMO, but in spite of the price jumps, there's still something that keeps me going back to Tri-X when it counts.
leicapixie
Well-known
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144278
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144278
I agree about supporting Ilford.
Ilford Fixer doesn't gas me out like Kodak.
I do use HC-110 as an alternative to Rodinal(Blazinol).
Love the clear negs, no base fog, fault i lived with for 40 yrs!
I prefer HP+5 for drying flat.
I use Kentmere 400 more than HP+5.
I am not into Shirley Temple curls..Tri-X make me crazy!
The Kentmere 400 is for economic reasons..
I rate for my exposure method about 250 ISO.
I like the gritty look.
When I don't, it's Ilford FP+4.
I shall soon try out Kentmere 100.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144278
I agree about supporting Ilford.
Ilford Fixer doesn't gas me out like Kodak.
I do use HC-110 as an alternative to Rodinal(Blazinol).
Love the clear negs, no base fog, fault i lived with for 40 yrs!
I prefer HP+5 for drying flat.
I use Kentmere 400 more than HP+5.
I am not into Shirley Temple curls..Tri-X make me crazy!
The Kentmere 400 is for economic reasons..
I rate for my exposure method about 250 ISO.
I like the gritty look.
When I don't, it's Ilford FP+4.
I shall soon try out Kentmere 100.
Last edited:
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Grain-acious... me and HP5
...
perhaps' other worldly' atmosphere but since I have 20 more rolls I would like to get it right

text and grain by helenhill_HH, on Flickr

The final shot... by helenhill_HH, on Flickr
perhaps' other worldly' atmosphere but since I have 20 more rolls I would like to get it right

text and grain by helenhill_HH, on Flickr

The final shot... by helenhill_HH, on Flickr
John Bragg
Well-known
Good luck Helen. I think you will get there. Ei200 helps a lot.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Good luck Helen. I think you will get there. Ei200 helps a lot.
Thanks much John, will give it ago Your Way... hc100, @200
Trooper
Well-known
Helen, those are shockingly grainy but I still like the effect. I thought mine was grainy but tolerable. I think this one was shot around EI320 and I think I used Microphen:

helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
dang Trooper that shot is DIVINE
Captures Innocence & Beauty
me jealous, jealous,jealous... :bang:
haha on Me and its True, shockingly grainy indeed
Alkis: yes, I much prefer workimg with liquid ...less toxic so to speak
Thanks EVERYONE for your tips....will peek at your photo sites
Captures Innocence & Beauty
me jealous, jealous,jealous... :bang:
haha on Me and its True, shockingly grainy indeed
Alkis: yes, I much prefer workimg with liquid ...less toxic so to speak
Thanks EVERYONE for your tips....will peek at your photo sites
Sparrow
Veteran
... try ID11 at 1+1 at 20c anywhere from around 12min on a nice summer day to maybe 15min if you want a bit more umph when it's overcast ... I have pushed it to 25min which I fancy is maybe two stops more speed
Agitated (without inverting) first 30sec and then 5-10sec every minute
... here's one from the 70's
... and another more recent one
Agitated (without inverting) first 30sec and then 5-10sec every minute
... here's one from the 70's

... and another more recent one

Michael Markey
Veteran
Never seen HP5 look as good as that Antonio.
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