Been to Istanbul three times and it's one of my favorite places on earth. I don't like the touristy center for very long. Too much hassle and too many touts (though all are polite if persistent). So I like to take a ferry to the Asian side and wander around there. Why pay for a tour boat? While you are there, find a non-touristy hammam for a Turkish bath. Or take the city ferry that goes around the golden horn and get off somewhere up the horn, doesn't matter where. Real neighborhoods here with residents and local businesses and very few tourists. Istanbul is a place to wander, though I'm always drawn to the waterfront. I also prefer the yeni cami/spice market/galata bridge area to the blue mosque/aya sofya/grand bazaar area...the streets between this district and the grand bazaar are also wonderful, very workaday and filled with tailor shops and bakeries. Enjoy!
