Jupiter-9

[wyk_penguin]

I want some advice on buying a Jupiter-9 85mm,f/2

I've heard that it is not quite useable at f/2 (i.e. you have to stop down to f/5.6) and many people say the quality is random due to improper repairs. :bang:

So what's your advice? Any photos from the Jupiter-9 (esp. at f/2)

 

[pangkievrange]

I want some advice on buying a Jupiter-9 85mm,f/2

I've heard that it is not quite useable at f/2 (i.e. you have to stop down to f/5.6) and many people say the quality is random due to improper repairs. :bang:

So what's your advice? Any photos from the Jupiter-9 (esp. at f/2)

I shot with jupiter 9 at f/2 very often. It's tough to do that at low speed (e.g., 1/10s).

pangkievrange

 

[childers-jk]

I tried a J-9 with my Bessa R. It worked, but was very soft at f/5.6. I would be willing to part with it, as I am using more wide angle stuff. I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the J-9 on FSU cameras though. Let me know if you're interested.

Jeff C.

 

[phototone]

The Jupiter 9 is great, if you get a good one. Here is a link to a photo in my gallery taken with a nice black LTM Jupiter 9, used with an "M" mount adaptor on my M4-2. Aperture was 2.8 on this shot, taken on Neopan 400. Camera on a tripod.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9919&cat=4198&page=2

 

[wlewisiii]

What body are you going to use it on? On my Kievs I use it wide open all the time... 😀

The LTM version is more complicated and this leads to the assembly errors. Also I think it's quite sensitive to the flange distance issue - use it on a FSU LTM body, no problem but use it on a Bessa and you are much more likely to have problems.

Get a good one, though, and it's a very sweet lens.

William

 

[Igor.Burshteyn]

My Jupiter 9 in Kiev mount (vintage 61xxxx, silver) seems to be usable at least from f2.8. A few examples can be found in my gallery
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=4996

 

[pangkievrange]

My Jupiter 9 in Kiev mount (vintage 61xxxx, silver) seems to be usable at least from f2.8. A few examples can be found in my gallery
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=4996

I have 4 jupiter 9's. Two silvers in 60's (arsenal and LZOS) were not collimated to the body. I had to grind the spacer for the whole optica assembly. They are very sharp at f/2 since I fixed them.

Richard

 

[Igor.Burshteyn]

They are very sharp at f/2 since I fixed them

.
Can you post your examples of J9@f2 ? I want to understand meaning of being "very sharp at f2" - something I don't expect of vintage Jupiter 🙂 Maybe my J9 needs some work, too?

 

[jdos2]

In Kiev mount, the J-9 is reportedly capable of 100lpm in the center of the frame, even wide open (like the Contax 85mm they copied)! The corners are not terribly sharp until stopped down a bit, though, and flare is just outrageous in some circumstances. Of course, at f/2 DoF is rather "narrow" (think mm's!) close.

I think it the nicest lens in the whole Kiev line. After that is the J-13, and then finally the J-8 and J-12, but not necessarily in that order.

I'll look for some 85mm shots I've taken wide open with color. They are attractive.

 

[Solinar]

I have 4 jupiter 9's. Two silvers in 60's (arsenal and LZOS) were not collimated to the body. I had to grind the spacer for the whole optica assembly. They are very sharp at f/2 since I fixed them.

Richard

My LTM Jupiter 9 which I use with my Zorki 3 had this same problem. I used a Zorki 6 to check lens calibration at infinity. I used a SLR with a long focal length lens and the backsighting method to check whether the focus setting was off at infinity. Sure enough, it was off. Mike Elek has a pretty good web page describing this proceedure.

To be brief, I got to 1.) relube one LTM mount Jupiter 9, which is a challenge, 2.) clean then lube the aperture control collar and 3.) rather than making various shims to fit where the len elements screw into the lens barrel, 4.) I adjusted the retaining ring behind the aperture control collar when it came time to reset the infinity focus.

I now have a good Jupiter 9. I'm using it in a dimly lit auditorium from about 3 to 4 meters and it sharp enough down to f/2.8.

 

[jdos2]

I'm going to grab mine this weekend and compare it to my 90mm Summicron AA. THAT'll be interesting. 🙂

 

[Solinar]

P.S. Wasn't the J-9 originally a Contax mount lens that later by the Soviets for the LTM mount.

 

[nwcanonman]

I use my J9 LTM on the Bessa R with no problems, so far. Here's a fairly closeup shot of my retreiver, from about 2 meters.

 

[jdos2]

P.S. Wasn't the J-9 originally a Contax mount lens that later by the Soviets for the LTM mount.

(Yes- a Contax 85mm Sonnar, and it's indeed a REAL Sonnar, with a triply cemented element, not a cheaper Ernostar derivative)

 

[pangkievrange]

My LTM Jupiter 9 which I use with my Zorki 3 had this same problem. I used a Zorki 6 to check lens calibration at infinity. I used a SLR with a long focal length lens and the backsighting method to check whether the focus setting was off at infinity. Sure enough, it was off. Mike Elek has a pretty good web page describing this proceedure.

To be brief, I got to 1.) relube one LTM mount Jupiter 9, which is a challenge, 2.) clean then lube the aperture control collar and 3.) rather than making various shims to fit where the len elements screw into the lens barrel, 4.) I adjusted the retaining ring behind the aperture control collar when it came time to reset the infinity focus.

I now have a good Jupiter 9. I'm using it in a dimly lit auditorium from about 3 to 4 meters and it sharp enough down to f/2.8.

What I talked about is jupiter 9 for kiev/contax mount. The optical portion can be twisted off the helical portion easily. A spacer (attached to the optical block) can be seen as soon as the optical block is off. I'm not familiar with LTM jupiter 9. I won't mess with any retaining ring/spacer for glasses. Otherwise, the optical design will be changed.

pangkievrange

 

[Solinar]

On the LTM mount, the entire lens assembly is moved inward and outward with the use of aluminum shims rest inside the inner barrel of the helicoid.

The collar I'm referring to threads on the threaded portion of the lens assembly so that acts as stop when the entire lens assembly is screwed back into the helicoid assemblyl. By adjusting the collar, it allows for micro adjustments with regard to moving all the elements of the lens as a single unit either away or towards the film plane.

The important point in collimating a lens at infinity is that you want all of the elements to move inward or outward as a single unit.

And good luck deciphering what I just wrote.

 

[kmack]

This was a test shot at one of our poker nights, The lighting was a single 45 watt bulb, about 11:00 pm after a few martini's. Shot with a zorki 4 -- j8, using Kodak DX400 film, I was about 2 meters from the subject.

f2 at 1/15 sec hand held, (which accounts for some of the softness.)

 

[darkkavenger]

Hello ! 🙂

I own a LTM Jupiter-9 which was probably badly serviced, I was wondering if any of you has a plan or schemes / photos showing how to disassemble and readjust it correctly. Thanks!

Max

 

[jdos2]

http://jeays.net/rubiks.htm <- as a start.
















I'm kidding, of course. There's a couple places around the net ( Best Stuff, for example) that has info, I'm looking...

 

[jorisbens]

I have an m42 jupiter 9 myself and I love it so much that in a couple of months I'll buy one for my fed-2. You can get very nice portraits with a minimum of DOF (that's the way I like it 😀 )

Joris Bens 😎