theotse
Theo Tse
Leica IIIa + summar 5cm for 500 USD. Good deal or bad deal?
Should i get it?
Should i get it?
Leica iiia + Summar 5cm
- Thread starter theotse
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 14
- Views 2K
barnwulf
Well-known
It depends on the condition of both the camera and lens. It's common for the older lenses to have scratches and cleaning marks. If it's bad enough, they do effect the results. The camera may need a CLA or maybe more. Keep that in mind. Jim
barnwulf
Well-known
The price sounds good for a camera and lens in good condition. Jim
dogberryjr
[Pithy phrase]
Are you able to inspect it first, or at least return it if it's a mess? Sight unseen and without return option? No, too risky.
MC JC86
Negative Nancy.
It's a good price if they've been serviced.. Those lenses are really prone to "fog" in my experience, which really hurts contrast. They can be effectively professionally cleaned, but adding that cost to the possibility of a "CLA" or "overhaul" being indicated for the body and that $500 and easily be bumped up %50.
rogerzilla
Well-known
I paid abouit 2/3 of that but then had them both CLAd which made up the difference.
You should get an absolutely A1 example for that money.
You should get an absolutely A1 example for that money.
jsrockit
Moderator
It seems steep to me. That's more IIIc w/ Summar money.
Brian Legge
Veteran
Agreed - unless they are in excellent condition, serviced in the past few years, etc I'd pass. There have been much better offers here in the forums in the past few months.
softshock
Established
I paid $285 for this combination in November, so I don't know if I just got a deal or if you're being overcharged. The Summar was nice, but it isn't THAT nice. What's the condition?
Vince Lupo
Whatever
No, not a good deal. Unless it was a rigid Summar that came with the IIIa!
David Hughes
David Hughes
I'll go along with the consensus, they have to be exceptional at that price. The trouble is their age makes them an unknown without very careful checking by a technician who knows what can and can't be done. I've had a Summar that was just beyond repair but looked perfect, coated etc. The expert opinion was that the front and rear elements had been reground for coating and nothing except a very expensive transplant would cure it. And it would have been far cheaper to get a good one from a dealer, with a guarantee.
Same applies to bodies but they are seldom damaged beyond repair and usually just need a little expect attention.
If this is your first Leica, I'd advise going to a dealer; for that sort of money you should be able to get a good one.
Regards, David
Same applies to bodies but they are seldom damaged beyond repair and usually just need a little expect attention.
If this is your first Leica, I'd advise going to a dealer; for that sort of money you should be able to get a good one.
Regards, David
Mr_Flibble
In Tabulas Argenteas Refero
I'll just echo the rest in saying that for $500 the body and lens need to be in Excellent condition.
The IIIa is usually one of the more affordable LTM-bodies out there. They can be had for under $200 in good condition.
The IIIa is usually one of the more affordable LTM-bodies out there. They can be had for under $200 in good condition.
theotse
Theo Tse
Sorry! the deal is a IIIc and Summar. Sorry! would that be worth it then?
Brian Legge
Veteran
Warning. Gross generalizations based on quick price checks and careless price tracking ahead. 😉 I'd recommend doing your own price research by looking at completed sales either in your area, eBay, etc.
It all depends on the condition of the camera and lens. A perfect, scratch free, like new Summar seems to go for around $300-500. Cosmetic issues but very good glass drops it to about $300. Some cleaning marks drops it down to around $150. Por condition evidently drops it to $40 based on a recent thread.
Similarly a IIIc seems to vary in price between $75 for a non funtion camera in need of work to $300 for a good condition, recently CLA'd camera. It looks like users tend to go for around $200.
This is where it's really hard to assess without hands on use of the camera. Even then, it's difficult to know the state of the curtains until you shoot a roll. I was fortunate enough to buy a III with a Summar here for $325. The camera and lens has been DAG CLA'd within the last decade and the glass was in excellent condition. My gut feeling is that there are better deals for users out there - the price is bordering on mint/collector prices - but you know more about what you are looking for, how much info you get about the condition of the camera, how risk tolerant you are, etc
It all depends on the condition of the camera and lens. A perfect, scratch free, like new Summar seems to go for around $300-500. Cosmetic issues but very good glass drops it to about $300. Some cleaning marks drops it down to around $150. Por condition evidently drops it to $40 based on a recent thread.
Similarly a IIIc seems to vary in price between $75 for a non funtion camera in need of work to $300 for a good condition, recently CLA'd camera. It looks like users tend to go for around $200.
This is where it's really hard to assess without hands on use of the camera. Even then, it's difficult to know the state of the curtains until you shoot a roll. I was fortunate enough to buy a III with a Summar here for $325. The camera and lens has been DAG CLA'd within the last decade and the glass was in excellent condition. My gut feeling is that there are better deals for users out there - the price is bordering on mint/collector prices - but you know more about what you are looking for, how much info you get about the condition of the camera, how risk tolerant you are, etc
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hmmm, I'd expect the IIIc to have a Summitar or Summicron or even a Summarit on it and for them to be the same or almost the same year of production. Summars are 1933 to '39 or so and IIIc a little later. Although it could be a 1940 body and 1939 lens and be a set that have been together for decades. Even so, I'd be surprised: I wonder what the others think...
You can check the year of production easily but need to have serial numbers of both.
Regards, David
