Leica M Monochrom: best pics

I think in my case it's likely the fungus!

Real shame about this lens -- has what looks like 'veins' on the outer edge of the element just behind the front element. Frank Marshman looked at it and he said he couldn't do anything...may possibly have etched the glass. But the lens is still perfectly useable, as you can see. And those shots were all done wide open at f/2.

Think they only made 480 of them!
 
Can you tell the difference between images taken with the Monochrom and images taken with the M9 or M8 (as B&W) when viewing image on a computer screen? What should I look for in the posted images to see the differences?
 
Vince Lupo said:
I think in my case it's likely the fungus!

Real shame about this lens -- has what looks like 'veins' on the outer edge of the element just behind the front element. Frank Marshman looked at it and he said he couldn't do anything...may possibly have etched the glass. But the lens is still perfectly useable, as you can see. And those shots were all done wide open at f/2.

Think they only made 480 of them!
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That is a shame. I trust you've given it the sunlight (or UV) treatment to kill the active fungus. But as you say, perfectly usable. I'd probably store it away from my other lenses! Mainline in Sydney has one on consignment at the moment, for a mere $2795!
 
Actually, I haven't done the 'sunlight' treatment (I just put it in a window now!). How long should I leave it out?

Yeah, Frank took one look at it and said no, but for the price I paid, it's not so horrid.
 
I would consider DAG for an opinion on how he may be able to save your lens, Vince. Sunlight will be helpful.
 
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raid said:
The sharpness is awesome, Michael.
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Thanks. The monochrom/Summicron-M 35 does the job really. When I've finished with tones and contrast, in Photoshop, I do a high pass filter (1.0, 50% opacity) and then resize for the screen. That's all that's needed.

Michael
 
MichaelToye said:
Thanks. The monochrom/Summicron-M 35 does the job really. When I've finished with tones and contrast, in Photoshop, I do a high pass filter (1.0, 50% opacity) and then resize for the screen. That's all that's needed.

Michael
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Is the high pass filter also in PS?
 
Vince Lupo said:
I have it outside now in the sun -- would a few hours do it?
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Hi Vince

Give it a couple of days. It won't hurt to do that once a year, just to be sure. Someone like DAG or Sherry or John van Stelten could certainly disassemble it and clean it out properly, removing the fungus, but as mentioned there might be coating damage that can't be cured by simple cleaning. I've heard that John Van Stelten can polish and recoat lenses but it depends on which elements are damaged - it's risky to do this work on cemented doublets. The SEOOF has six elements in five groups, so there's a cemented pair there somewhere. Chances are that's the one with the problem. I'd probably opt for the cleaning.

I had an early M-mount version that had a big chip in the front element. Wonderful lens. I should never have sold it (to Brian Sweeney).

PS - love that last portrait above - wonderful! That Monochrom certainly draws nicely in the right hands.
 
Many thanks guys -- fortunately I had great subject matter to work with, and literally in my own backyard!

Two things I also realized yesterday: i) That $290 90mm Summicron works great, fungus or not; ii) I should put away that Noctilux for a while and start using my 50 Summicron more.
 
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