Leica M3 Meter

[Dan95]

Hi. Ive got a Leica M3 and a Leica M6.

I bought the M3 as I like the way 50 lenses look in the VF. I dont use the M6 anymore.

Ive got a Leica MR4, and it isnt as accurate as my Sekonic L358. It varies by 2 stops.

Im wondering whats the best meter for a meter-less leica ? Should I repair/calibrate the MR4 or just use the Sekonic.

 

[Dan95]

This might sound funny, but I sometimes incident meter on my M6. 🙂

 

[Livesteamer]

Go with the incident meter. It's one of the best ways. If you want to repair your old meter many here recommend Quality Light Metric. Enjoy. You've got two great cameras. Joe

 

[John Lawrence]

Depends on what you like.

For a long time I used an MR4 meter on my Leica, but these days I find it too bulky and fiddly and prefer to use my Sekonic L-308s, usually in incident mode.

Having said that, there have been a couple of recent threads on here regarding repairing / adjusting the MR4 meter if you fancy giving it a go yourself.

John

 

[januaryman]

I have the VC meter and an old Gossen Luna Pro. I use sunny 16.

 

[ruby.monkey]

Keep something like a Sekonic L-208 TwinMate in your pocket and sneak it out when nobody is looking. Then stare at the sky and mutter "Hmm, bright sunlight, maybe broken clouds, allow a stop for the time of day and maybe another for the season..." under your breath whenever passers-by get within earshot.

 

[elmer3.5]

Mr4

Mr4

Hi, i used to have the m4 with that meter, first used a 1.4 v batt, it was always overexposing then switched to wein cells much better but it had sometimes 1-2 stops difference.

Have to say in actual shooting i never had any trouble, all exposures proved ok, film, i think, tolerates a lot.

Bye!

 

[januaryman]

Have to say in actual shooting i never had any trouble, all exposures proved ok, film, i think, tolerates a lot.

That's certainly true for negative film...

 

[dacookieman]

My MR4 meter also varies 1-2 stop when I compare it with my 308s. I was speaking to a local repair guy and he said that the MR4 meter was merely a guideline or safety net to give a rough idea of exposure and not really super accurate like today's modern incident meter.

That's what he said though, I simply have no idea. But its kinda exciting just guesstimating exposure and double checking with my incident meter or MR meter.

 

[lewis44]

I use this adapter :
http://www.paulbg.com/Nikon_F_meter_batteries.htm

I find it a good way to use the meter and it is much better than other methods. Meter seems accurate within on stop and have no problem getting good exposures using Velvia 100.
The MR4 has a narrow field of metering (90 Degrees) so you have to use it like a spot meter.
Hope this helps.

 

[payasam]

If you have the MR4 mounted, you won't be able to use a 35mm (or other) accessory finder. If you use slide film, you'll need the accuracy of the Sekonic. Even with negative film, two stops is too much.

 

[-doomed-]

I always incident meter with an L-28c2 when its necessary otherwise its sunny 16 in consistent light.

 

[ItsReallyDarren]

I use this adapter :
http://www.paulbg.com/Nikon_F_meter_batteries.htm

I find it a good way to use the meter and it is much better than other methods. Meter seems accurate within on stop and have no problem getting good exposures using Velvia 100.
The MR4 has a narrow field of metering (90 Degrees) so you have to use it like a spot meter.
Hope this helps.

thanks for the link. It'll come in handy when I want to replace the rubber and aluminum shims in my camera and meters.

 

[cnphoto]

I have a Sekonic L-308s I use with my M3 and I find it a good setup. I also have EV table and rough 'Sunny 16' table PDFs on my iPhone that I've started using if I don't want to use (or forget) the meter.

I mostly always use the same film (but sometimes push 1 or 2 stops) so it makes it all fairly easy and consistent to remember settings for normal shooting conditions.

 

[Dan95]

Oh guys. Thanks for the responses.

I now want to shoot horse races, and one of my friend says to dump my M3 and M2, and go for a M6 TTL. But, I kinda dig the chrome finish in the M3.

I am now a happy incident meter user, but, I havent got the hang of using it. In tricky lighting situations, should I meter the brightest part of the scene or the darkest ?

 

[Dan95]

If I sell my M3 and M2, Id have enough money to get a M6 TTL 0.85. Which will serve as a great companion for my current M6, which I havent used in 6 months, as I mainly shoot 50, the main reason why I bought a M3.

 

[RichardB]

Oh guys. Thanks for the responses.

I now want to shoot horse races, and one of my friend says to dump my M3 and M2, and go for a M6 TTL. But, I kinda dig the chrome finish in the M3.

I am now a happy incident meter user, but, I havent got the hang of using it. In tricky lighting situations, should I meter the brightest part of the scene or the darkest ?

I would suggest that you either purchase some books or search the 'net for information about exposure, metering and the various Zone Systems and/or take a class somewhere at an ART college that teach's basic photography/exposure. Most Art Colleges still start with film basics.
Exposure while not an extremly diffcult concept is not as simple as what part of the scene do I expose for. You need to learn the fundamentals of film sensitivty, scene brightness range and how that range can best be made to fit the film you are using.-Dick

 

[Livesteamer]

I use a M6 .85 non ttl as my main camera. I had the finder upgraded by Sherry Krauter and it made a BIG difference. If you get an M camera with the .85 finder look for an upgraded one. Without the finder improvement the rangefinder patch will suffer a lot of flare. Joe

 

[beyond]

Dan95, bro..You should buy a VC meter. It works well. Ask David if you doubt it. He has one. I m sure he can loan it to you for a test run during TT or outings.

 

[Dan95]

Will do Jason..

And for a moment ago, I thought of selling my Leicas and buy a MP. Only keep 1 camera + 2 lenses which is a 50 Lux Pre Asph and a 35 Summicron Canada 🙂

But, I dont think I'll learn with a built in meter..