douglasf13
Well-known
I'd love it if someone could point me to the threads that show clear comparisons (using the same scene) showing the difference in B&W performance and detail between the M8, M9 and MM.
Horses for courses. The R-D1 is still my favorite camera for B&W and i prefer keeping my IR-cut filters with the M8.2. What i dislike with the MM is its propensity to make white holes in the pics in case of (apparently frequent) blown highlights and the impossibility to use digital colored filters with it. I guess i could underexpose my MM shots if need be but the necessity to struggle with optical colored filters in the field and to loose from 1 to 3 EVs with them is pretty well a deal breaker for me.
The MM does not seem to behave the same way as other cams in that there is nothing to recover in the white holes it produces in case of blown highlights.
Expose correctly, you mean, for the scene and characteristics of the recording medium. Anyone who ever used transparency film learned the need to avoid over-exposure.
..... The MM does not seem to behave the same way as other cams in that there is nothing to recover in the white holes it produces in case of blown highlights.
Those "glaring holes" are quite disturbing on a computer screen, as they light up. On a print, however, they are simply white highlights and far more natural.......
Except that highlights are not always blown out in all channels so that there is something to recover with normal cameras whereas there remains nothing with the MM. The solution is to underexpose or to expose on the very highest lights i guess which is not what i would call behaving exactly the same way as other cameras.Alternatively - It behaves exactly the same way as other cameras, especially digital; in that when highlight exposure is blown in the R, G, and B, channels ------ there's no information to recover...
Actually, they are simple to avoid, which i try to do anyway. (except specular in high-contrast, but that is another story and can be toned down in post, you don't need structure there)The raw based histogram and highlight warning are excellent on this camera.Alternatively - It behaves exactly the same way as other cameras, especially digital; in that when highlight exposure is blown in the R, G, and B, channels ------ there's no information to recover. The solution is the same as it has always been -- basic exposure technique. Hardly a problem for photographer.
Alternatively - One might be able to live with them on-screen [not me, but sadly too many do] but they look like crap exposures made with lousy technique in prints. As did burned out highlights in darkroom prints.
.............. Chris
yes, i got nailed on those in my night shots... it's an issue on any M, though, especially if you're shooting fast lenses in the dark with lights anywhere.Actually, they are simple to avoid, which i try to do anyway. (except specular in high-contrast, but that is another story and can be toned down in post, you don't need structure there)The raw based histogram and highlight warning are excellent on this camera.
At least on the MM specular highlights do not have blue halos...😛🙄yes, i got nailed on those in my night shots... it's an issue on any M, though, especially if you're shooting fast lenses in the dark with lights anywhere.
as for the cam's histogram and highlight warning -- not all that useful if you're not into chimping, especially if you're shooting live.
touché! you are right -- those are a pita regardless.At least on the MM specular highlights do not have blue halos...😛🙄
When you mention not liking the way the m9 green output is not right. Have you tried with a lens covered by an IR filter?
there's also those presets that Jamie Roberts made for the M8 before UV/IR solution was found (they only work in C1 though). i often use the low contrast one, even on my M9 files, because i prefer the way it renders colours in the RAW conversion (which is just as important in images destined to become b/w).No I haven't tried that. I have several Camera Raw Presets that work well, after that little bit of patient fiddling. I never thought about the UVIR as a fix, tho it makes sense that it might have contributed to the green rendition of the M8- leaves and UV...
Pretty well what i expected.(…) I find that even shooting at night I always use -1 or even up to -2 EV compensation to avoid clipping highlights. My camera is always at -1 EV compensation no matter what (...)
I agree completely.touché! you are right -- those are a pita regardless.
seriously, though, i do find the Monochrom meters a lot differently than the M8 or the M9 (which were slightly different themselves). much more care is needed to make sure you don't blow details you need to keep in the lighter areas. it's really a matter of learning the camera, i'm sure.
what's cool about the Monochrom, though, is the amount of detail and tonality that you can bring back from the shadows, even if you vastly underexpose. especially at high ISO, the difference is night and day to what you would get with either the M8 or the M9. it really is an extraordinary camera!