Leotax Elite

[cassel]

I think the real surprise for me is the brightline frame for the 50mm built into the finder. Pretty small list of the small Barnack bodies with frame lines! The Leica IIIg and that about it? Not sure the later Canon screwmount models count 'cause they got pretty large (body size)....

The advance is nice! And it's ratcheded (sp?) so you can pretend like it's a Double Stroke M3🙄

The diecast body shell is 139mm long... just a bit too long for an old half case lying around from a IIIc.

As far as continuing this old thread....I debated about starting my own new topic but decided the existing title would help people find my updated comments. Hopefully they can wade through the initial strangeness:angel:

 

[hilltime]

I applaud you for being so determined with the Mamiya 35 F/2 and hope the shutter situation gets resolved. You probably curse me everytime you think of this camera, but it was probably the rarest camera in my collection. Now you may be the only person in the world to own two of the F/2 models.

The thread is interesting as I have a Leotax FV and TV2 with a Topcor 5cm/F2 and Fujinon 5cm/F2 respectively on these models. They are my favorite Leica Copies, so much so I recently sold my mint condition Tower 45 with it's 5cm/F2 Nikkor. I didn't get quite it's worth but it was time to move it along to someone who was most interested.

I may have a Leotax case if you are interested. Please PM me or contact my email address: hilltime@comcast.net.

Hope the Mamiya returns soon!

Regards,
Gary

 

[cassel]

Hi Gary-
Good to hear from you! I DON'T curse you at all when it comes to the Mamiya--- the glass on that camera is flawless (better than my other f2.0) and it's rarity is worth all the trouble so far. It's a fascinating camera and under-rated as a user/collector in my opinion! It should be repairable...

I'm reminded that we have similar tastes in cameras....the Mamiyas , the spring-wound Auto Terra cameras, and the Leotax🙂 All of these are sort-of odd ball cameras with interesting features. Hmmmm

-Dave

 

[hilltime]

Auto Terra

Auto Terra

Ah yes, the Auto Terras, probably my fave fixed lens camera which maybe shouldn't go under this topic as it truly is a Other RF or Fixed lens RF.

I'm not sure in our conversation if I told you I got one of my all-time( Probabaly Will Never Find Cameras), a Auto Terra Super L with accessory spring drive booster, Original hood, wide and tele accessory lenses, and Auto Terra filters, obviously with the 45/F1.8 Zunow lens. it wasn't cheap but finding this all together was a minor miracle. The Zunow on this camera really lives up to it's reputation and probably is the exact same lens as on a Neoca SV Super which is my favorite small P/S rangefinder camera.
Love these cameras as well as the Mamiyas which can not be underrated for uniqueness.
Happy Holidays,
Gary

 

[cassel]

Recently saw a Auto Terra Super L sell on the big auction site for over $400... it was tough not to bid! Meanwhile I am having fun with the Leotax/Nikkor set. Let's see if I remember how to link some samples photos from a recent roll:

These are straight from the scanner with no post processing:
Leotax Elite, Nikkor Tokyo 5cm f2, Agfa 200 film

 

[cassel]

More to share with this combo - Leotax Elite with 5cm Nikkor Tokyo:

Nice vintage "glow" under the right conditions-- but I really want a different option when it comes to 50mm lenses. Here's my only other choice right now- the Canon 35mm f2.8 ---samples:

Little Canon is decent!

 

[tunalegs]

I don't know. I'm seeing nothing remarkable from that lens, I suspect it's either really dirty inside or the reputation of those old Nikkors is a bunch of baloney.

The Canon lens on the other hand seems to do quite well.

 

[Shafovaloff1]

I bought a Leotax, I think TV2 or "Merit" (it has the self timer with wind lever), and it is solidly built with superbly accurate rangefinder. The viewfinder is nice also. The camera is solidly built and is like new. My understanding is this was close to the last Leotax model and probably was assembled while in bankruptcy. The rangefinder is more accurate than any of the Canon models I have except for the Canon 7 which I would say is an equal. My 2 cents.

 

[cassel]

I don't know. I'm seeing nothing remarkable from that lens, I suspect it's either really dirty inside or the reputation of those old Nikkors is a bunch of baloney.

The Canon lens on the other hand seems to do quite well.

I agree--- the Nikkor is tricky to use and I'm not even showing you the not so good shots! My particular example of the lens had really bad spots (many) on the internal elements. Repairmen said "not repairable" and it was too obscured to shoot. I took it apart myself after doing some research and was able to clean it up but the damage left permanent scars on the glass. If the conditions are just right you can get decent results but it is tough🙁

I'm hunting for another 50mm🙂

The Canon 35mm was not on my list of favorites for a long time but I never sell it because it does seem capable and has decent resolution--- I espcecially like it with Tri-X.

 

[cassel]

I bought a Leotax, I think TV2 or "Merit" (it has the self timer with wind lever), and it is solidly built with superbly accurate rangefinder. The viewfinder is nice also. The camera is solidly built and is like new. My understanding is this was close to the last Leotax model and probably was assembled while in bankruptcy. The rangefinder is more accurate than any of the Canon models I have except for the Canon 7 which I would say is an equal. My 2 cents.

I've got one of the Merit models as well... I really love these cameras and I have to remind myself not to buy more bodies when it's the lens that takes the picture😎

Here's my set (kit) Elite in front with Nikkor, Merit in back with Canon 35mm (using a brightline Olympus viewfinder)

 

[02Pilot]

I agree--- the Nikkor is tricky to use and I'm not even showing you the not so good shots! My particular example of the lens had really bad spots (many) on the internal elements. Repairmen said "not repairable" and it was too obscured to shoot. I took it apart myself after doing some research and was able to clean it up but the damage left permanent scars on the glass. If the conditions are just right you can get decent results but it is tough🙁

I'm hunting for another 50mm🙂

The Canon 35mm was not on my list of favorites for a long time but I never sell it because it does seem capable and has decent resolution--- I espcecially like it with Tri-X.

FWIW, I recently brought a Summar with damage far more extensive than what you're describing back from the dead with cerium oxide polishing. There's a thread in the LTM forum (and another related one in the Repair forum), but you can PM me if you want further details. I suspect considerable improvement is possible.

 

[mkvrnn]

In an attempt to return this thread to its original subject, I'll just say that I've recently bought my 3rd Leotax, an Elite imported from Japan. I love the Leotax range for their build quality and reliability.

The Elite has a larger brightline viewfinder which is almost as nice to use as the Leica iiig, and combined with the excellent lever wind, it makes it possibly the best of all the pre-M3 Barnack style cameras (including Leica).

 

[bluesun267]

I agree, the later Leotaxes are beauties, despite the brightlines being reflected (rather than projected like the IIIg) and non-moving. I do think the finder is a bit brighter than the IIIg in fact.

 

[cassel]

Trying out the Super-Rokkor 50mm F1.8 LTM on my Leotax Elite in January. Here's some results:

 

[paniolo]

Please dont hurt me but.... is there any color tint to the viewfinder? Probably blueish`?

 

[Dez]

The late model Leotax cameras are really great machines, basically a Leica IIIf with a more convenient sync, lever wind, and a MUCH larger and generally better VF with 50mm brightlines. I have had a few of these apart, and in my opinion the build quality is equal to contemporary Leicas, with the exception of the slow speed escapement, which I consider more robust than the rather troublesome Leitz part. They are slightly larger than the Barnacks, just about the same as the M3.
This would be the perfect bottom-loader, if only it also had the hinged back from the Nicca 5 series. Those are also larger than the Barnacks. I have both a Leotax Merit and a Nicca 5, but as I am on the road at the moment I don't know if the bodies are exactly the same size. I wonder if it would be possible to graft a Nicca body shell onto a Leotax, and get all the best features in one camera. Has anyone seen such a hybrid done?
Yes I realize that some of the Yashica descendants of the Niccas added a much improved VF, but those cameras have completely lost the classic Barnack style that is still there in the Leotax cameras.

Cheers,
Dez

 

[bennyng]

Hi guys,

Reviving an old dicussion here as I need some advice here on either the Leotax FV, Eilite (T2) or Merit (T2L).

How does one attach a cable release to these machines as the advance/rewind switch is also the shutter release button's collar. As such, it does not screw out like the normal bottom loaders of most makes.

Thanks!

Cheers,
Benny

 

[bennyng]

How does one attach a cable release to these machines as the advance/rewind switch is also the shutter release button's collar. As such, it does not screw out like the normal bottom loaders of most makes.

Ok. Figured out the answer to the above.

The old style cable release for barnack type cameras will screw right into the collar. There's no need to remove it all. Quite nifty as you will never lost that bit again!


Leotax FV with Chiyoko Super Rokkor 45mm f/2.8 LTM

These cameras seem pretty well built too.

Cheers,

 

[mconnealy]

I would like to remove the top cover on my Elite to clean the viewfinder. There are good instructions on the web for an earlier similar model. The difference with the Elite is the lever winder. I'm wondering about any complications that introduces for getting the top off and back on.

 

[02Pilot]

No direct experience, but it looks like you should be able to simply unscrew the center screw and lift the assembly off. Note the order of components when you remove it. There's a chance the screw may be left-hand thread, so don't apply too much force; if you look at the photos of these cameras above, every single one has a scar on that screw from the tool slipping out under pressure, which makes me think people are trying to turn it the wrong way.