Lubricate Focus on Elmar 50/3.5...How To?

[minimicrite]

I just got a nice "bargain" Elmar 50/3.5 collapsible from KEH. Looks nearly new, glass is clean and clear, one bubble in an element somewhere for that old-timey look, barrel has a nice used patina, and the rest of the metal looks showroom new. I can see some corrosion inside the lens tube if I look hard, so it will need a proper CLA at some point. Serial # says it's a 1937 model. I like old stuff 😀 (Let's see where my *ist DL is in 75 years!!)

But, extending and collapsing the lens takes some effort, but I've found if I twist when extending/collapsing, it goes much easier, so that's not my problem. The focusing is. It's very, very stiff. I think the grease has dried up and gotten gummy.

My question is this (after my looong story, sorry 😱 ): If I uncrew the focus stop, I should be able to seperate the lens from the mount, and remove the dried up grease from both sets of focusing threads, correct? It will need to be re-lubed, so what to use? A little dab of lithium grease, like what I use on my car? Or is there something better? I know liquid grease is a no-no, as is using lighter fluid to remove the old grease.

Side note: Wow, this thing is small. I didn't realize it would collapse smaller than my Industar. The lens ring is smaller, too, so the Industar-22 cap won't fit it. Pill bottle cap, I guess...

Thanks all!

 

[OldNick]

It has been many years since I encountered the same problem with my Elmar, so I can't recall what lubricant I used. Possibly a very small quantity of Vasolene petrolium jelly. When you remove the stop, note carefully where the collar and barrel separate. I seem to recall that the threads can be engaged in more than one position on reassembly, so you need to remember where to start the engagement. Don't fret it, because trial and error will eventually allow you to get it right.

Jim N.

 

[Xmas]

Mine run almost dry with a small drip of PTFE liquid lube, one drip in each grove. Radio Shack/Tandy any gun shop should supply small pot of... the PTFE wont gum or attract dust etc.

Even the FSU clones can operate ok without other/more lube, many are brass and self lube.

The stop will be tight rubber washing up (kitchen gloves and pliers might be necessary, i.e. use gloves to protect the finish and increase coefficient of friction. Don't mar the screw driver slot.

Noel

 

[minimicrite]

Thanks for your advice, OldNick and Xmas! Got the barrel out, and spent a good five or ten minutes wiping the old goop out of the threads. Put a tiny, tiny amount of Vasoline on a q-tip, and put a film around the threads, and it's like a whole different lens.

I have noticed a tiny, tiny bit of fungus/film on the inside of the front element, but it's way out at the edge, and I won't be using it wide open much, so who cares?

Thanks again, you've been lifesavers!

 

[John Shriver]

Yeah, easy to remove that stop. Just pay attention to the orientation when the threads separate, so that it's easier to get back into the right start. Not that it's hard to do by trial and error on this lens.

As for lube, depends on the feel you want, and how loose the dry threads are. I've used both Lubriplate (white lithium grease, available at hardware stores) and LaBelle 106 (white grease with Teflon, available at good hobby shops). The LaBelle has fine powdered Teflon in it, can make for a very smooth feel, if the threads aren't too closely mated.

 

[Xmas]

Well either moisture or fungus if left in situ can damage the lens, the glass is not like window glass.

I'd address the risk immediately, hard if you live in the sticks... You could show it to a technican or a experienced camera person. I've just stripped a FSU clone to discover the moisture droplets inside did not clean off, i.e. even with an aggressive solvent to remove any residue the glass had been etched by the moisture or whatever...

The outer part of the lens is used for the outer part of the frame even at small aperatures, but it will only soften the detail.

Noel

 

[PHOTOEIL]

For this kind of 'minor' lubrication I always use the Ballistol gun oil. This is a very old formula (1904) made for the German army and was intended to take part of the basic outfit of the infantry so they could take care of their gear, uniform (leather), animals AND the human body (like on little wounds and burnings) on the field. It is a very fine liquid that is drying down slowly but keeps lubricating, it should not be removed when the lubricating will have to be done again, so it is no problem to use it repeatedly.
It is also very good to be used on the Leica's leatherette to prevent it from becoming brittle and cracking down.
On other camera's I use it to conserve the rubber and other plastic materials.
In England it seems to be very popular among horsemen (and -woman).

Good Luck,

 

[minimicrite]

I'll try to track down Ballistol, Lubriplate, or LaBelle this weekend. I've got a friend who's into rifles, he may know where to get, or even have, some Ballistol. I've never heard of any of the three, and our Hobby Lobby is still just a "coming soon" sign in a field.

As for the fungus/film/whatever it is, it's really, really faint, and in all honesty, I shouldn't have bought the lens, so any CLA will have to wait until late Dec or Jan when I have a little spare cash. Two months shouldn't ruin a lens that's been around for ~75 years. How much is a lens CLA, anyway? $75?

 

[Xmas]

If you want or need something stiff like grease (or vaseline) then the PTFE grease is one option, and again easily available from Radio Shack/Tandy. It is cheap and has low creep, wide temperature range.

If you leave the camera in an auto even in temperate climate the temperature range can be wide, in tropics really wide.

This is not critical for an Elmar or clone heliciod but is for a SLR lens, some of these need to run dry...

Noel

 

[Graybeard]

I've cleaned and relubed both Elmars and FSU Industar-22's a number of times in the past; it really is pretty simple. The helix threads on these lenses are exposed and it is easy to reach them.

What I've done is use a bit of solvent on a Q-tip to clean out the threads of old lubricant. Wind the focus all of the way in, wipe the threads, then wind it all of the way in the other direction and wipe it again. Paint thinner, lighter fluid, or gasoline all work well for this; just moisten the end of the Q-tip - ypur intent isn't to wash the entire lens with solvent.

Vaseline works perfectly well for lubricating the threads - use the narrow end of a toothpick to apply it.. After all, you can clean and relubricate next year if necessary. I've also used a teflon-based product named "Magnalube", largely because I have a can of the stuff , as well as "Lubriplate" available in any auto parts shop. One tube of Lubriplate will serve for your Elmar until Halley's Comet is back with our grandchildren again.

 

[Graybeard]

I've cleaned and relubed both Elmars and FSU Industar-22's a number of times in the past; it really is pretty simple. The helix threads on these lenses are exposed and it is easy to reach them.

What I've done is use a bit of solvent on a Q-tip to clean out the threads of old lubricant. Wind the focus all of the way in, wipe the threads, then wind it all of the way in the other direction and wipe it again. Paint thinner, lighter fluid, or gasoline all work well for this; just moisten the end of the Q-tip - ypur intent isn't to wash the entire lens with solvent.

Vaseline works perfectly well for lubricating the threads - use the narrow end of a toothpick to apply it.. After all, you can clean and relubricate next year if necessary. I've also used a teflon-based product named "Magnalube", largely because I have a can of the stuff , as well as "Lubriplate" available in any auto parts shop. One tube of Lubriplate will serve for your Elmar until Halley's Comet is back with our grandchildren again.