cnphoto
Well-known
Developed a roll from my M3, had quiet a few photos shot at low speeds (1/15th-1/2 second) and noticed that on the right side of the image frame there is a thicker black area, maybe 2-2 and a half the normal frame spacing on the neg roll. Looks like the second curtain is dragging slightly at those slow speeds. Otherwise it works great, shutter speeds appear as close as I can gather and all exposures look good (it's also much smoother and feels nicer to use than my M4-P, and the shutter is a lot quieter too). The self timer also functions without hesitation.
Could this drag issue resolve itself after a few rolls of film? It is noticable, but it doesn;t interfere with the frame too much... is there any online documentation regarding tensioning the second shutter curtain? The RF and VF are also very clear, frame lines are brights and the RF patch is contrasty and easy to focus. This camera is MUCH nicer than my M4-P (tempting me to sell the M4-P and get an M2 for the 35mm frame lines... the M3 was purchased for use with a 90mm Elmarit-M for portraits).
I've just received my IIIc back from CLA after the slow shutterspeeds stopped working, and am about to send the M4-P out for RF re-alignment and flash socket repair so am not too keen on sending the M out for repair due to $$$.
I am happy continue to use the M3 and deal with the shutter issue until the M4-P is back and I have the funds to send it off for a CLA at a later date, but if there is a guide for adjusting shutter curtain tension I would be interesting in finding out more.
Could this drag issue resolve itself after a few rolls of film? It is noticable, but it doesn;t interfere with the frame too much... is there any online documentation regarding tensioning the second shutter curtain? The RF and VF are also very clear, frame lines are brights and the RF patch is contrasty and easy to focus. This camera is MUCH nicer than my M4-P (tempting me to sell the M4-P and get an M2 for the 35mm frame lines... the M3 was purchased for use with a 90mm Elmarit-M for portraits).
I've just received my IIIc back from CLA after the slow shutterspeeds stopped working, and am about to send the M4-P out for RF re-alignment and flash socket repair so am not too keen on sending the M out for repair due to $$$.
I am happy continue to use the M3 and deal with the shutter issue until the M4-P is back and I have the funds to send it off for a CLA at a later date, but if there is a guide for adjusting shutter curtain tension I would be interesting in finding out more.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Don't mess with the tensions, you'll screw up the evenness of exposure at high shutter speeds if you do that without a proper tester to show the speed each curtain travels (they must go the same speed or you'll get exposures with one side of the frame darker than the other at high speeds
cnphoto
Well-known
Ok, thanks. I'll live with the minor inconvenience until I have the M4-P back and then send the M3 off at a later date.
_goodtimez
Well-known
Actually you may document yourself and do it.
The best is at first to compare the shutter performance with a similar and known well working camera.
You can use a CRT TV do do so. Look on the web for figures and explanations.
Also on the web ou can easily find information about the tension of the curtains and the brake adjustment.
If you work carefully and note every step you take, you can do it.
At the end you may test your camera with a digital camera and check all speeds. You would place a digital camera in B mode and pre-focused behind the back of your M3 and use the M3 shutter for the digital. Look for my thread about the repair of my M2.
Old Leica are like old cars, and the real pleasure is to fix them yourself.
The best is at first to compare the shutter performance with a similar and known well working camera.
You can use a CRT TV do do so. Look on the web for figures and explanations.
Also on the web ou can easily find information about the tension of the curtains and the brake adjustment.
If you work carefully and note every step you take, you can do it.
At the end you may test your camera with a digital camera and check all speeds. You would place a digital camera in B mode and pre-focused behind the back of your M3 and use the M3 shutter for the digital. Look for my thread about the repair of my M2.
Old Leica are like old cars, and the real pleasure is to fix them yourself.
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
I cannot find the thread, goodtimes.
_goodtimez
Well-known
Sorry I can't find the post myself. I swear I did post it though. Anyway, here is my homemade test procedure:
Use a trusty digital SLR or a good Digital compact which you can adjust on B mode (open shutter).
Place the digital camera right on the back of your M, and build some kind of light seal using cardborad and tape or a black cloth. The lens of the digital camera must be looking through the M camera so remove the back of the M camera and position the digital camera as close as you can.
Put the M camera on B mode now and lock it with a cable release; and perform some shots with the digital at all the speeds you want to test your M (from B to 1/1000). The digital lens actually looks through the chamber of the M body left with no lens.
Note the above shots parameters. The results should be identical exposure shots.
Now place the digital camera on B mode, and fire the M camera at all speeds, same as above. You should get the same shots exposed the same way.
This is just a comparison test but when performed in conjunction with the CRT TV test is achieves good results.
I have stripped down my M2 which suffered from a sticky 1/8th and inacurate average speeds and achieved nice adjustments with the above tests.
Try go get as low tension as possible for the curtains and note each and every step you make on a notebook, as well as the initial position of each screw head, make pictures whenever possible.
Use a trusty digital SLR or a good Digital compact which you can adjust on B mode (open shutter).
Place the digital camera right on the back of your M, and build some kind of light seal using cardborad and tape or a black cloth. The lens of the digital camera must be looking through the M camera so remove the back of the M camera and position the digital camera as close as you can.
Put the M camera on B mode now and lock it with a cable release; and perform some shots with the digital at all the speeds you want to test your M (from B to 1/1000). The digital lens actually looks through the chamber of the M body left with no lens.
Note the above shots parameters. The results should be identical exposure shots.
Now place the digital camera on B mode, and fire the M camera at all speeds, same as above. You should get the same shots exposed the same way.
This is just a comparison test but when performed in conjunction with the CRT TV test is achieves good results.
I have stripped down my M2 which suffered from a sticky 1/8th and inacurate average speeds and achieved nice adjustments with the above tests.
Try go get as low tension as possible for the curtains and note each and every step you make on a notebook, as well as the initial position of each screw head, make pictures whenever possible.
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payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Thank you. I must use this technique right away on a FED-2 whose speeds are suspect.