ferider
Veteran
Amazing ....
M4-P question?
- Thread starter shayallen
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Al Kaplan
Veteran
Welcome to the club. It all falls into place after awhile.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Benjamin
Registered Snoozer
The pencil sharpener is the best.
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
The M4-P is an awesome under rated camera. The early M4-Ps with indented window have brass tops, the others have zinc tops. I shot with an M4-P for years with whatever meter I had at the time. Congrats.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Shayallen, unlike digital cameras, in film, the ISO remains the same throughout the entire roll of film. In fact, the little round thing in the back of your M4-P works as a reminder more than an indicator, and, unlike the M7 dial, it has absolutely no effect on the exposure.
When I got my first meterless Leica (a nice M3), I had a Leica MR-4 meter in which I could vary the settings according to the film I loaded. However, soon enough I got tired of metering every so often... so I decided to use the camera with ISO 400 film, memorize the light condition and EV (that is, exposure value, or the combination of shutterspeed and aperture appropriate for each exposure) for different situations, indoors and outdoors, and go out into the world, free from the need of batteries and additional gizmos.
It's been fun... And somewhat humbling. But then, I use PRINT film, so it's tolerant to under- and overexposures. My best film? Chromogenic stuff, or black-and-white that can be developed in C-41 chemistry, in any supermarket minilab in the nation.
Of course, in my two M6TTL, I shoot slide film. Their meters are quite reliable, and I like what I get.
Hence, in addition to the book and a meter (and a lens, so the shutter doesn't sound that loud), just take the camera for a spin and start thinking like film. You'll have some decent amounts of fun, I guarantee it! 🙂
When I got my first meterless Leica (a nice M3), I had a Leica MR-4 meter in which I could vary the settings according to the film I loaded. However, soon enough I got tired of metering every so often... so I decided to use the camera with ISO 400 film, memorize the light condition and EV (that is, exposure value, or the combination of shutterspeed and aperture appropriate for each exposure) for different situations, indoors and outdoors, and go out into the world, free from the need of batteries and additional gizmos.
It's been fun... And somewhat humbling. But then, I use PRINT film, so it's tolerant to under- and overexposures. My best film? Chromogenic stuff, or black-and-white that can be developed in C-41 chemistry, in any supermarket minilab in the nation.
Of course, in my two M6TTL, I shoot slide film. Their meters are quite reliable, and I like what I get.
Hence, in addition to the book and a meter (and a lens, so the shutter doesn't sound that loud), just take the camera for a spin and start thinking like film. You'll have some decent amounts of fun, I guarantee it! 🙂
N
Nikon Bob
Guest
Just to add to what Francisco has said. Even with the M7 you cannot change the iso of the film in the camera by merely changing the iso by moving the dial. If you increase the iso on the dial to gain a higher shutter speed you will be underexposing the film. You can only directly change the camera iso in a digital camera. Film is slightly different than digital in some respects and can get a little confusing at first. A good basic photography book dealing with film photography would be a good aid.
Bob
Bob
shayallen
Established
Thanks guys for your help I think I have it organized in my head now... I have to wait till next week to get my light meter in cause I spent all my "secret Money" on the M4-P! My wife thinks its just so cute he is buying all these "old" cameras! I plan on writing down all my exposure info for 20 rolls or so like Maddoc has suggested and hopefully I will have it down or a least be on my way by then. I also plan on getting a couple of those books as well. Thanks
JNewell
Leica M Recidivist
If you are using the M4-P alongside (at the same time as) the M7, and if the ISO rating of the films are the same (or if you want to do some quick math if you are, for example, using ISO 100 film in one and ISO 400 in the other), you can use the M7 as your lightmeter and just use the same (or adjusted) exposure settings.
shayallen
Established
Thanks I was wondering how that would work. I was wanting to go and shoot some this afternoon and was not sure how I could do it without a light meter. So I would use the same F stop adjust shutter to correct exposure and use the same setting on M4-P and fire away. Right?
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Sounds like you're ready to do some weddings. 😀
Svitantti
Well-known
Adjusting the shutter does the same effect to exposure as adjusting the aperture (for one stop).
A stop is (for example):
- from 100 ASA to 200 ASA
- from 1/125 to 1/250
- from f5.6 to f8
You have many alternatives on how to expose a film in certain conditions. You can go 1/500 f2 or just as well 1/125 & f4.
Also an example: If you have 400 ASA film in your M7 and want to shoot 100 ASA with M4-P side by side, using the meter of M7... If you get 1/500 f5.6 you can adjust either value or even both for the M4-P. You can go 1/125 f5.6, 1/500 f2.8 or 1/250 f4 or whatever...
A stop is (for example):
- from 100 ASA to 200 ASA
- from 1/125 to 1/250
- from f5.6 to f8
You have many alternatives on how to expose a film in certain conditions. You can go 1/500 f2 or just as well 1/125 & f4.
Also an example: If you have 400 ASA film in your M7 and want to shoot 100 ASA with M4-P side by side, using the meter of M7... If you get 1/500 f5.6 you can adjust either value or even both for the M4-P. You can go 1/125 f5.6, 1/500 f2.8 or 1/250 f4 or whatever...
George S.
How many is enough?
Svitantti,
I'm not trying to be picky, but so it is crystal clear to the OP, we should point out that you begin your post with talking about a one stop adjustment, but your last paragraph describes a two stop adjustment as the difference between 400 and 100 ASA is of course, two stops. I know you show a two stop example in your last sentence, but I want him to be clear that that example is a two stop example.
shayallen,
Each adjacent number of both the shutter speed and the lens' f-stop scale increases or decreases the exposure by one stop. If you want to increase or decrease exposure by one stop, you increase or decrease EITHER, the shutter or the lens opening. Just remember that going to the larger numbers DECREASES the amount of light hitting the film while going from a larger number to a smaller INCREASES the exposure. [ decrease example- shutter speed of 125 to 250 or lens aperture of f2.8 to f4 ]
Hope this helps.
I'm not trying to be picky, but so it is crystal clear to the OP, we should point out that you begin your post with talking about a one stop adjustment, but your last paragraph describes a two stop adjustment as the difference between 400 and 100 ASA is of course, two stops. I know you show a two stop example in your last sentence, but I want him to be clear that that example is a two stop example.
shayallen,
Each adjacent number of both the shutter speed and the lens' f-stop scale increases or decreases the exposure by one stop. If you want to increase or decrease exposure by one stop, you increase or decrease EITHER, the shutter or the lens opening. Just remember that going to the larger numbers DECREASES the amount of light hitting the film while going from a larger number to a smaller INCREASES the exposure. [ decrease example- shutter speed of 125 to 250 or lens aperture of f2.8 to f4 ]
Hope this helps.
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Svitantti
Well-known
Good point.
One more thing about the stops and apertures. The ISO speed and shutter speed always multplies with the factor 2x when it changes one stop. Also the filters have factors like 2x for a single stop... But the apertures change for square root of 2 for each stop. So from 2 to 4 or 4 to 8 it is already two stops.
One more thing about the stops and apertures. The ISO speed and shutter speed always multplies with the factor 2x when it changes one stop. Also the filters have factors like 2x for a single stop... But the apertures change for square root of 2 for each stop. So from 2 to 4 or 4 to 8 it is already two stops.
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
just for looks?? and I thought it was for recording/marking the ASA of the film in the camera.
/
George S.
How many is enough?
Yes, I meant to say 2.8 Thanks for pointing that out. I'll edit it.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Svitantti
Well-known
Could be in some Leicas... But on M4-P it doesn't even rotate so I guess... 😀
Oh yeah, I guess you can use a ball point pen for that, lol.. I actually have mine covered with a new skin that didn't have this round hole.
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RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
right...you "record" or mark (with a pencil) the ASA you are using in the large circle in the center of the "dial". I just draw a line from the ASA setting toward the center of the circle or write '400' or whatever the ASA. It's kind of like those square slots on the back of SLRs where you slip in the cardboard box top from the film box. It's of questionable value, but not just for looks. 🙂
'
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Technically, the dial in the back is called a "reminder" only. The photographer records in it the ISO of the film loaded, and this information remains set until a roll of film with a different ISO is loaded in the camera.
The dial in the M2 and M3 turns. The one in my M4-2 does not, but the center area apparently allows scribbling with a pen or pencil.
Come on, shayallen, take your camera out for a spin and just guess the exposures! 🙂
The dial in the M2 and M3 turns. The one in my M4-2 does not, but the center area apparently allows scribbling with a pen or pencil.
Come on, shayallen, take your camera out for a spin and just guess the exposures! 🙂
