M5 Light Leak

I too have had this problem (see attached photo), and sent my M5 to Sherry back in 2014. When I asked her the cause of the leak, she replied "The housing shell was cracked!" and intimated that it had been poorly worked on by a prior repairer. I'd purchased the camera used, and it looked very good from the outside, so I was surprised that the camera could have been mishandled to the point the housing shell was cracked.

She made a repair (not inexpensive), returned the camera, the problem continued so I returned it to her, and it came back fixed. I found a small errant dab of what looked like a black sealant on the camera exterior, so I presume that she'd used some sort of flexible caulking to eliminate the leak.

The one thing I did that I rather regret was to have her adjust the meter to operate on 1.5V, on the theory that I could find "silver alkaline" 625 batteries (her words in quotes). I wish I'd left it unchanged, so I could continue to use a diode-based adapter with 357 silver button batteries to get a final output of 1.35V. I'm going to try using the adapter/357 again to see what it gives, in the hopes that at least its voltage will not vary as much as the regular alkaline 625 batteries that die a quick death. if anyone has a fix on "silver alkaline" 625 batteries, please let me know.

Trask, do you know if your leak originated from the same spot as Huss in Post #35, through the little rangefinder window? Where did Sherry put the sealant (or whatever) to plug the leak?

As for 1.5v batteries, you could try a "dumb" adapter, and use 1.55v silver oxide batteries. All the SPX 625-sized batteries seemed to have disappeared in recent years. DAG sells one such adapter, which can be used with SR44-sized (Duracell 303/357) button batteries. Silver oxide batteries have a flatter discharge curve compared to alkaline, so you'll have more stable voltage output for the meter.
 
Blan01, that leak is pretty well hidden in your example, and not too obtrusive! I'm able to clone some of mine out in post processing (not ideal, but better than nothing), but some leaks totally ruin an image for me. Mine is also intermittent, seems to appear more shooting in very bright conditions. If I'm not mistaken, Huss' was also mostly problem free until it started appearing suddenly. He had problems on about 15-20 frames per roll, but I think he does a lot of outdoor shooting in bright, sunny Southern California.

p.s. Such a serene photo of your son napping quietly! 😀

Thanks a lot, he was less than a month old back then.

A lot of my shooting are indoor now so perhaps that's why I don't see the leak as often as you guys.
 
I don't think Huss will be back here on RFF to respond himself, but I've been conversing with him about it through another platform because I also have a similar light leak. Huss' leak originates from the little rangefinder window, and leaks into the film gate area behind the shutter curtain (see Post #35).

Huss sent his camera to DAG for repair, but the leaks persisted, albeit less frequently. He contacted Zacks Camera Repair, and it seems they service the M5, so he's going to give them a try. Leica Germany no longer services the M5. Depending on how Huss' repair goes, I may also send mine to Zacks.

Thank you for the update, dourbalistar. I'll be interested to hear what Zacks says, I didn't know about them before.

My M5 also has the frame lines cracking so it will need serviced at some point. I wish there were a clearer answer on the light leak, but it sounds like no one has solved it conclusively. I'm currently shooting my first roll since seeing the leak, and trying to take a few high speed shots and some toward the sun.

I tried to replicated the flashlight through the window test, but couldn't detect a leak there.
 
Trask, do you know if your leak originated from the same spot as Huss in Post #35, through the little rangefinder window? Where did Sherry put the sealant (or whatever) to plug the leak?

As for 1.5v batteries, you could try a "dumb" adapter, and use 1.55v silver oxide batteries. All the SPX 625-sized batteries seemed to have disappeared in recent years. DAG sells one such adapter, which can be used with SR44-sized (Duracell 303/357) button batteries. Silver oxide batteries have a flatter discharge curve compared to alkaline, so you'll have more stable voltage output for the meter.

Dourbalistar: Sherry said the metal housing was somehow cracked by a repairperson who had worked on the camera prior to my buying it. I had a phone call with her at one point, and IIRC she said the leak was coming from the film advance shaft. I could never quite figure out what set of variable circumstances involving sun angle and camera handling allowed light to hit the film like that. The photo attached to my prior post was made when I was standing in shadow, but of course it’s possible that I’d advanced the film and walked around with the camera for a while, giving lots of time for the light to get to the film. Perhaps the reason I would get a leak and then none for a while was that I was shooting frame after frame quickly, so not giving the leak enough time to mark each image. I had to send her the camera three times, but eventually it came back fixed and seems to have stayed fixed for several years.

Thanks for the tip about the battery adapter sold by DAG — I’ve ordered one. I think a silver SR44 putting out 1.55V via the adapter will be much better than the 625A batteries.
 
Dourbalistar: any word from Huss regarding Zacks and finding a fix of the light leak?

Mine is still here and doing well. It showed up on 4 out of 24 frames.

50394400193_b64f55cc72_b.jpg
 
Dourbalistar: any word from Huss regarding Zacks and finding a fix of the light leak?

Mine is still here and doing well. It showed up on 4 out of 24 frames.

50394400193_b64f55cc72_b.jpg

No update from Huss, but I think Zacks only received his camera about a week ago. No idea what their shop time is, or how long the repair might
take. I'll keep folks posted here whenever I hear back from Huss.

Sorry about your persistent leak! I had none on my last roll, but 3-4 on the previous two rolls... :bang:
 
My M5 had this same light leak. The viewfinder window seemed the likely culprit after reading through everything. I tried shining a light through, but couldn't detect a leak. Stil, as a test I put some black tape around the viewfinder--up to the 35mm frame lines. One roll through and no leaks!

Doesn't look the best, but if it works!

med_U76079I1601917052.SEQ.0.jpg
 
My M5 had this same light leak. The viewfinder window seemed the likely culprit after reading through everything. I tried shining a light through, but couldn't detect a leak. Stil, as a test I put some black tape around the viewfinder--up to the 35mm frame lines. One roll through and no leaks!

Doesn't look the best, but if it works!

med_U76079I1601917052.SEQ.0.jpg

I'd laugh, but I have some black gaffer tape on the front of my M5 right now, too. I mean, the M5 is already ugly, right? 😀 I couldn't detect a leak from the small rangefinder window either, but I located a different leak around the lens mount, at the 2 o'clock position near the viewfinder window. So that's where my black gaffer tape is.

That said, based on where the light leak was, Huss seemed to think the leak originated from the small rangefinder window side of the camera. Did that long strip of black tape do anything for you, or do you think it was the tape around the border of the viewfinder window that did the trick?
 
I'd laugh, but I have some black gaffer tape on the front of my M5 right now, too. I mean, the M5 is already ugly, right? 😀 I couldn't detect a leak from the small rangefinder window either, but I located a different leak around the lens mount, at the 2 o'clock position near the viewfinder window. So that's where my black gaffer tape is.

That said, based on where the light leak was, Huss seemed to think the leak originated from the small rangefinder window side of the camera. Did that long strip of black tape do anything for you, or do you think it was the tape around the border of the viewfinder window that did the trick?

Right! It's not winning any beauty contests either way. I had the long strip there previously to black out the logo, so it didn't affect the leak. Interesting about the lens mount, I will check there.

Hoping this does the trick though. My M5 is hanging on by a thread, with this light leak and failing framelines. Putting a few more rolls through with the tape job to see if it holds up. We'll see!
 
I'd laugh, but I have some black gaffer tape on the front of my M5 right now, too. I mean, the M5 is already ugly, right? 😀 ...

... My M5 is hanging on by a thread, with this light leak and failing framelines. Putting a few more rolls through with the tape job to see if it holds up. We'll see!


Yes, yes, you're right - they are indeed hopeless. No need to waste more time and film with it, I say.

So, as a fellow sympathetic RFFer, I will kindly and generously offer you each $25 for it and will even pay shipping.
 
Yes, yes, you're right - they are indeed hopeless. No need to waste more time and film with it, I say.

So, as a fellow sympathetic RFFer, I will kindly and generously offer you each $25 for it and will even pay shipping.

A generous offer! I am of half a mind to replace it with one of the other M bodies. I found a decent deal on an M4-P but it really felt pretty flimsy next to the M5.
 
I ran four more rolls through the taped up M5 on a trip this past weekend. Lots of outdoor shots in the sun and not a single light leak. I'm ready to declare the taped up finder a fix, if an ugly one!

med_U76079I1602939316.SEQ.0.jpg
 
To provide an update, I've been messaging with Huss on another forum and he confirmed that Zacks Camera Repair was able to fix the leak in his M5! He got his camera back this past weekend and his test roll confirmed no leaks. He sent along a copy of a technical note in French (see below) that Leitz issued in 1975, and that helped Zacks diagnose and complete the repair.

In another thread, RFF member j.scooter also found a repair tech in Canada who was able to repair his leak.




 
I had the exact same issue with my M5 (same shape of light leak and always appearing in the same corner). I went through the lengthy process of sending my negatives to Leica in Germany and the analogue specialist there was able to find the source of the light leak. This is what they said:

"The light protector made of black plastic or thin sheet metal can be attached on the part I am pointing of with red pen. It has to be thin enough to move the lever in front without any hassle."

VOeQtAh


Unfortunately, the Leica technician I go to in Melbourne hasn't done a repair like this before and doesn't feel right charging me for repairs that he isn't confident doing. But maybe someone else here will find this information useful.
 
I came across this thread, as a newly acquired M5 of mine has exactly this light leak pattern.

My impression from these posts is that DAG and Sherry have been unable to repair this light leak? I find that very surprising.

I'm wondering if anyone has had your M5 fixed by Leica New Jersey. I emailed them and to my surprise they still work on M5s.
 
I came across this thread, as a newly acquired M5 of mine has exactly this light leak pattern.

My impression from these posts is that DAG and Sherry have been unable to repair this light leak? I find that very surprising.

I'm wondering if anyone has had your M5 fixed by Leica New Jersey. I emailed them and to my surprise they still work on M5s.

I would have thought, at one time, DAG or Sherry could easily fix the problem. but too many have tried and seemed to fail. Although Huss is banned, I have been in contact to some degree and he maintains to this day the Zacks the only one who solved the issue. I think that should count for something.
Red Dot is in the initial phase of developing his reputation. Give him a call.
 
Back
Top Bottom