I saved money from jobs and birthday gifts to afford a Nikkormat FTn and two Nikkors. From where I lived then, that was like $5K is for hardworking (or well off) kids today. I can find no fault in his wanting an M8 or M7, why not?
The comments towards the M7 or MP are very valid, for the most part. I think the discipline that has been spoken of is just as valid on an M8 as it is on my M6. It’s how you use the tool that counts. Digital has advantages in that you can take the camera home, develop the RAW images on your computer and never worry about what is being flushed down the drain. Or if you even have access to a darkroom. I’ve seen tons of film photographers over the years with very fast motor drives trying to get that moment in time that is the photograph. While the M motor is not as fast, you can do the same thing there. If you can handle the initial outlay, go with the M8 or an Epson RD-1. Enforce the discipline yourself, but have the extra tools at your disposal.
You will not do yourself wrong by going with an MP, M7 or even an M6, but digital is a lot easier and in the end, costs less. Do not get me wrong, I have rapidwinders for both Ms and a motor for each of my F2s. There are times when I am shooting stuff that happens too fast and I do not know the flow well enough, it’s just handy. But for 99% of my street shooting, no winders, just me and my camera.
If you really want to try street shooting at its bare minimum, pick up a black Bessa L and put a black CV 25/4 with a finder on it. Small, no rangefinder, built in meter with LEDs on the top of the camera, your camera is almost invisible to people. It is a fun combination that I love. I use it as my walking around camera. When I am not carrying my M6, a Bessa L is at my side.
Another option is to look at a Bessa, the new R4A is a great street camera. Not built as well as a Leica, but costs a lot less (you can buy about six of them for the price of a M8). They are not Leicas, something about Leicas that you can not put into words.
Read
http://www.cameraquest.com/classics.htm for some great info.
Lens wise, while Leica glass is wonderful, not sure it’s worth the cost unless you are selling big enlargements of your pictures. If you go M8 or RD-1, go with a CV 28/1.9 and then a fast 50mm. I am not a 50mm person, so I’m not sure which one. If you go R4A, get a ZI 25/2.8 (Tony at Popflash has great prices on them). As a second lens, look for a used black Nikkor 85/2 (black is lighter and newer) in LTM and get an adapter or get a new Leica 75/2. If you go M7 or M6, the CV 28/1.9 is a great first lens and then either the 85 or the 75. The 75/2 is much smaller than the f1.4 version and costs less.
In general CV lenses are a great place to start. Very sharp and many of the new ones are built to a much better standard. Again, not a Leica lens, but close. There are dozens of great LTM lenses from yesteryear that you can use (e.g. Nikkor 105/2.5, the mother of all short telephotos) on just about any Leica body.
Read all you can here, search through old threads in the forum lists, ask questions (like you have) and find a store to go touch and feel the cameras. I do not know any in Boston, but I’m sure this is still a good one or two out there.
Think before you shoot, look for the best angle to tell the story and go there. Think sniper not machine gun, one or two pictures of a scene max. Not everything that looks interesting is, with work you can make it an interesting picture. Use your light meter as a recommendation not the law, not everything is an 18% gray card think of what and how you are metering. The best way to become a great photographer is practice.
B2 (;->
