Making a leather strap - suggestions/ feedback?

Forest_rain

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I'm planning on making a rawhide leather strap, a project I've had for awhile.

I realize that rawhide is probably not the best material but I'm using the cheap stuff first to practice before using my good leather.

I'll start off making straps for my Canon 7 but also need straps for my SLR, as well as medium format cameras.

The problem I'm having is choosing the correct strap lug/method of attaching to the camera.

I bought some 1 1/4" keyring/split rings, which I'm worried will be too big and rub against side of the camera and scratch it, but perhaps with the strap attached it won't do that. So I would have to create a bumper to rest against the side of the strap lug. I might use these larger/sturdier rings for medium format instead of the rangefinder/slr since it's a lot heavier.

The straps I have are 1 - 3/4", obviously too thick, so I'm planning on cutting them down.

I was thinking about using triangle split rings as strap lugs, but the problem with these is they are only about 2/5"-5/8" so the strap will only be that thick, unless I cut the end of the strap thinner than the rest of the strap, which will obviously weaken the end of the strap.

I also have some carabinier type "old style" strap lugs, which I've heard can be bad because they will scratch your camera.

I also have some metal buckles I was going to use to make the strap adjustable, but I have been reconsidering this since they might add weight to the strap.

I'm hoping you guys will have some experience using straps over long periods and maybe have some advice on the best strap design as well as strap lug types over the years.

The advice I was getting before was generally the softer/thinner the strap the better, because of lowest weight/greatest comfort and that leather is pretty durable anyway. The rawhide is pretty soft and thin to start however.

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I've made a few straps, not from leather but either cotton or the rope type. You're correct about the large rings, I've used them and they are awkward. My favorite is about a half inch on the strap and about ⅜" on the camera. I like round on the camera, I use 1" long snap rings on the strap, I like quick disconnect as I don't always use a strap. All this hardware is available on Amazon.
 
Thanks, I will search out some 3/8" split rings, looks like the equivalent on amazon is 10mm or 12mm nickel plate rings, they seem A LOT cheaper and easier to come by than the triangle split rings, which seem like a rip off. Not sure why they sell those for so much.

I've made a few straps, not from leather but either cotton or the rope type. You're correct about the large rings, I've used them and they are awkward. My favorite is about a half inch on the strap and about ⅜" on the camera. I like round on the camera, I use 1" long snap rings on the strap, I like quick disconnect as I don't always use a strap. All this hardware is available on Amazon.
 
Have a look at “Zhou’s OneKnot Strap” on eBay. This is my all-time favorite style strap. It’s design keeps the strap ring away from body. Should be easy to copy.
 
Have a look at “Zhou’s OneKnot Strap” on eBay. This is my all-time favorite style strap. It’s design keeps the strap ring away from body. Should be easy to copy.

Thanks, are these straps non-adjustable?

It looks like the "knot" is non-adjustable, it's just a knot to hold the loop on the strap together. It could be replaced with a standard rivet.

It also looks like a halter which seems like a good idea for added comfort.

And also a bumper to prevent scratching. Seems like a good idea.
 
The absolute nicest “feeling” camera strap is the original on my Contura Stereo Camera. This is Salz California Saddle Leather, no buckles, goes from 3/8” to about 3/4” at the neck. Very very supple soft leather. Salz is still around, not sure if they still have this high quality leather.
 
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The absolute nicest “feeling” camera strap is the original on my Contura Stereo Camera. This is Salz California Saddle Leather, no buckles, goes from 3/8” to about 3/4” at the neck. Very very supple soft leather. Salz is still around, not sure if they still have this high quality leather.

Looks like Salz closed down in 2001. They make wallets now, it seems.

Interesting looking strap. Very simple, almost no hardware at all just a rivet to hold it to the camera.

I plan on picking up some milled veg tan leather in the near future, but any USA (Or Italian/French/German) made leather is usually pretty supple.

The budget import South American leather I've seen supposedly goes through an expedited tanning process and seems to be a stiffer/drier in my experience.
 
I find it relatively easy and inexpensive to make do-it-yourself neck straps and wrist straps for my cameras by purchasing 7 meters of suede leather from a craft store and cutting it to my specifications. A simple square knot is all that is needed to close the loop.


Suede Camera Straps by Narsuitus, on Flickr
 
I like to make camera straps from used leather goods. It adds patina and suppleness. The two pictured turned out quite well. I modeled them after Gordy designs. The first bracelet I made was too big. The one shown is 8in from ring to loop, so twice that in length. At 3/8in the leather came from a cut down woman's belt. I like small split rings that just fit. In this case 1/2in. After searching around fancier craft stores and sites, it turned out the best quality came from a locksmith's store. It's just a decent quality key ring. I used "O" rings as a guard and as a smuggler. That idea came from Gordys.

The long strap was a dog leash cut to 42in. It's 5/8in wide and a bit thick, but OK. The ring is 1/2in. It's just right and has a sentimental meaning for me, which makes it special.

On both, I used a simple leather twine wrap to cover my messy stitching. The ends are adhered with contact cement and heavy thread hand stitching. I don't have leather tools, so holes and edging aren't perfect. For edge work I used a block plane and wooden screwdriver handle.

You could finish with a saddle soap or special rub, but I used bees wax gently melted in mineral spirits over a double boiler. It solidifies and lasts a long time. As added bonus, it's food safe so if you're crafting skills lead to cutting boards and wooden spoons, your good to go.

The best advice I have is not to make things big and bulky.

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You might want to consider a chrome-tanned leather for its ability to fend off moisture while remaining supple. Even if your strap never sees rain, it will still be subjected to perspiration just by the nature of its use. A chrome-tanned leather such as Horween’s Chromexcel, be it steerhide or horsehide, is impregnated with fats & oils as part of the tanning process making it perfect for such use. But there are other similar leathers out there that are generally termed “pull-up leather”. This is due to the leather’s behavior to temporarily change color in areas where the leather is stressed or stretched, bringing the oils/fats to the leathers surface. While this description might be less than appealing, in actuality this leather is generally considered to be very attractive, not to mention durable, by most standards. Pull-up leather tends to grow more attractive with use for those who like it to begin with.

Beyond that, the quality of thread that you use will be the other key point. I had a custom motorcycle riding jacket made a number of years ago by an outfit that is local to me. When I noted how impressed I was with the quality of the leather that they used, they were quick to point out that the quality of the thread used, as well as the quality of the stitch work involved were what tended to separate a premium jacket from the rest. I have no doubt that this would apply to a leather camera strap as well. A waxed nylon thread likely being the way to go.
 
Finish the edges! Most brands cut costs here.

Triangular rings with leather protectors are effective.

Fujifilm strap
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So are standard round rings with a leather protector.

Artisan & Artist Kobe strap
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I ordered some split rings from a fishing tackle supplier, so they should be pretty sturdy. They are tested at 100 pounds and meant for fishing lures, so I think they should be pretty rugged.

I prefer the veg tan leather because I like the natural finish and how it ages and changes over time.

Pull up leather sounds interesting, I might buy some veg-tan from wickett and craig, they have harness and bridle leather. They also have latigo which sounds interesting and has pull-up. I got some swatches from them so I'll see which colors I like.

I got some Ritza "Tiger" waxed thread which is supposed to be the best, made in Germany! Also I did get a bone folder and gum tragacanth for burnishing the edges.

After searching around fancier craft stores and sites, it turned out the best quality came from a locksmith's store. it's just a decent quality key ring. I used "O" rings as a guard and as a smuggler. That idea came from Gordys.
 
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