mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
on the C220F at least, and I presume the non-f version also, nothing prevents you from cocking the shutter again and having another exposure.
You wind the film and it stops at the next frame. Cock and fire the shutter as many times as you like. When you fire the shutter, the wind is enabled to let you wind to the next frame.
I like the 330f, but I like my 220f as much. It's just different. The film wind feels a lot smoother without the shutter cock feature. I'm OK with the manual cocking. I miss the auto parallax indication occasionally. The 220F has a nicer folding viewfinder than older models. But you need to verify what finder is on whatever Mamiya TLR you buy, they get swapped around a lot.
Now I have a question for the 220F. My copy has the focusing screen installed with the fresnel pointing up. That seems wrong to me, and the ridges catch dust and junk more than if the fresnel were pointing down. If anybody with a 220f reads this, what is the screen orientation on your camera?
You wind the film and it stops at the next frame. Cock and fire the shutter as many times as you like. When you fire the shutter, the wind is enabled to let you wind to the next frame.
I like the 330f, but I like my 220f as much. It's just different. The film wind feels a lot smoother without the shutter cock feature. I'm OK with the manual cocking. I miss the auto parallax indication occasionally. The 220F has a nicer folding viewfinder than older models. But you need to verify what finder is on whatever Mamiya TLR you buy, they get swapped around a lot.
Now I have a question for the 220F. My copy has the focusing screen installed with the fresnel pointing up. That seems wrong to me, and the ridges catch dust and junk more than if the fresnel were pointing down. If anybody with a 220f reads this, what is the screen orientation on your camera?
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
The focus feels smoother on my 220F also. It could just be my camera, or it could be that focus doesn't have to push that parallax indicator around or the connection to the shutter release on the chin.
And on further examination, there is a 'single/multi' switch around the wind knob of the F. I had it set at multi. At single, it does indeed lock the shutter until the next frame is wound on.
And on further examination, there is a 'single/multi' switch around the wind knob of the F. I had it set at multi. At single, it does indeed lock the shutter until the next frame is wound on.
JP Owens
Well-known
Loved the C330; but, the C220 is much lighter, so is the one I would go with.
narsuitus
Well-known
A colleague at the newspaper where I worked had so much trouble with the auto shutter cocking/film advance mechanism jamming on his Mamiya 330 that I decided to avoid the auto shutter cocking models. I only used the C2, C22, and C220 manual shutter cocking models. I primarily used them for shooting weddings and portraits. I also used them at the newspaper when I needed to use electronic flash synched at high shutter speeds.
CMur12
Veteran
I just checked my C220f and it has the fresnel side facing up, like yours. (It's also very vulnerable to scratches.)
On my C330f, the focusing screens have the smooth side up.
- Murray
Vincent.G
Well-known
I chose the C220 because it is a simpler and lighter camera.
My film counter gear has one of its tooth broken because it is made of plastic. I bought a replacement part for it but has yet to do the repair.
My film counter gear has one of its tooth broken because it is made of plastic. I bought a replacement part for it but has yet to do the repair.
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
Interesting. Yup, the 330 screens are smooth side up. I figured the fresnel side was probably correct. I have not had focus issues.
thanks for the info!
bkarasek
Newbie
Hello, I just wanted to know if the 180 lens which am using on a C220 will function with the self cocking mechanism on the C330? I have been told that the older 180mm lenses will mount on the C330 but are unable to use the self cocking feature on the C330. Any truth to the matter?
Bill Clark
Veteran
Info:
http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Mamiya_C
This one I like, informative, a pdf you can save:
http://grahamp.dotinthelandscape.org/mfaq/m_faq.pdf
I just saved it on my iPad!
I own the first version Mamiyaflex. It has one focusing knob. I refurbed the leather and found it to be pretty easy peasy.
http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Mamiya_C
This one I like, informative, a pdf you can save:
http://grahamp.dotinthelandscape.org/mfaq/m_faq.pdf
I just saved it on my iPad!
I own the first version Mamiyaflex. It has one focusing knob. I refurbed the leather and found it to be pretty easy peasy.
lxmike
M2 fan.
I've owned and used the 220 - nice camera but the 330 looks better, and that's what counts really
never a truer word typed or spoken, l wonder how many of us have fallen for beauty ahead of its usefulness, especially where cameras are concerned
CMur12
Veteran
The older "chrome" lenses don't work on the C330. I haven't tried it for awhile, but I don't think you can even successfully mount the lens on the C330, as the shutter cocking lever on the lens hangs up on the auto-cocking mechanism in the C330. At first, I had hoped that I could mount my chrome 135mm lens on my C330f and cock it manually. However, since the only way to advance the film is with the crank, which in turn activates the auto-cocking mechanism, it's simply not possible.
I can use my one chrome lens on my old Mamiyaflex or on my C220f, but not on the C330f. The later "black" lenses, however, will work on all three cameras.
Another point in the C330's favor: The moving needle at the top of the frame shows both parallax and exposure compensation. One will note that the bellows on these cameras offer WAY more focusing movement than on the normal TLR, making exposure compensation an issue more than one might otherwise guess. I find the moving needle showing exposure compensation to be extremely helpful. Parallax is also more of an issue with the close-focusing possible by these cameras. This moving needle is always there and shows the user when exposure and parallax need to be compensated for (and by how much). Extrapolating this from a scale on the side of the camera, let alone remembering to do so, is less convenient by far.
- Murray
mkvrnn
Established
It's the C3 / C330 range for me every time because I love their heavy build quality. They feel like serious cameras.
I couldn't resist buying a C220F a couple of years ago because it was absolutely like brand new, but I was disappointed by the lighter feel and sold it again after 6 months.
Many people see the lighter weight as an advantage, and of course they're all excellent cameras, but if I wanted a simpler, more portable TLR I'd probably choose a Yashica or Rolleicord.
I couldn't resist buying a C220F a couple of years ago because it was absolutely like brand new, but I was disappointed by the lighter feel and sold it again after 6 months.
Many people see the lighter weight as an advantage, and of course they're all excellent cameras, but if I wanted a simpler, more portable TLR I'd probably choose a Yashica or Rolleicord.