New York March NYC Meet-Up

[Calzone]

I can feel spring fever surging. Let's set a date for a Sunday in March.

This is a heads up about making a meet-up in Philly, and hooking up with our friends there. It seems like there is a group of us are willing to go to Philly to shoot say on a Saturday and do an overnighter.

Also another dumb idea is do the NYC Century as a bike and shoot. 100 miles on a bike means mucho hours in the saddle. I just need time in the saddle, my days of doing a century averaging 20 miles an hour are over, and I expect my pace to be about 16 miles an hour, and that means perhaps 6 1/2-7 hours of riding. Anyways it definately can be like a challenge like running a marathon. To make it a challenge I'm going to do it on a single speed. Basically just a dumb thing to do... More or less I'll want to keep moving, but I am also sure that I'll find something to shoot.

BEOON REVIEW: My $195.00 BEOON Leica copy stand deeply impressed me with John C's M-246 and my 65/3.5 Elmar (Visoflex lens). We took some shots of a distance magnification chart in dim Puck Fair lighting using 1/3 second exposure and no cable release. The texture of the paper was recorded in detail.

Steve says that with the proper lens and a good exposure that one can expect end results perhaps almost as good as his Imacon. Chris Sag-N-ich reports that he owns a chrome and a black 65 Elmar, and they are remarkable lenses with the black version having slightly more contrast. I think the 65 Elmar is the lens to use for copying 35mm negatives, but my chrome 90 Macro Elmar is likely the best lens to use for copying medium format negatives.

I say anyone who owns a M-240 or M-246 should get a BEOON to create a very easy to use fast way to digitize negatives. It seems the IQ is easy to obtain and it is a lot cheaper than an Imicon if you already own a Leica digital with liveview. Hmmm one way to justify another camera, and even possibly a new SL. I might have to get a Visoflex III housing, but first I will try to see how problematic it is to use my Mac and EIZO tethered to get precise focus on my Monochrom. Ideally if I can do a zoom in on a 24 inch EIZO of the grain on my negative I can definitely nail the focus.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

BTW the NYC Century is usually around the first week in September so you have mucho time to get ready. I say if you can do a 40-50 mile ride on a Saturday, and another 40-50 mile ride the following day on Sunday you can pretty easily do a Century meaning that doing a hundred miles in one day should be able to do.

WWW.NYCcentury.org to register for updates.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Post Fashion Week are these boutique events called "Capitol" and "Tranoi" where the up and coming designers assemble to do their own show "outside the tent."

Anyways this year "Maggie" kinda got mobbed as a celebrate-Tee. She ran into some designers that she featured on her blog. Two designers mentioned that the shirts that she featured basically got sold out by the demand Maggie created. Anyways Maggie put in another long-long day.

While I was having the NYC Meet-Up Maggie was meeting up with Carmen and Al, a photographer and a stylist, doing a 10 hour photo shoot in a studio in Bushwick. Of course this featured some clothing from an up and coming designer, but also included a heaping amount of clothes from Maggie's "closet."

Things have been busy lately, so I only got to checking the mail Sunday after the Meet-Up, and there was a catalog/book from Japan where Maggie is featured in a United Arrow catalog. All during the week prior to the shoot were visits by Carmen and Al, and then Al to pick up a bulk load of clothing, as well as a drop off of some clothes (muslem samples/prototypes) by a designer/friend.

April it seems will be a busy month already. Another blogger who is our friend will be coming in from Australia.

On Friday April 15 I'll be giving a Sim-pose-E-um at ICP (6-9) on the "Calzone" method of using a Monochrom and Piezography.

Anyways I might use this as an opportunity to bring out the big prints from Digital Silver Imaging (24x36 on 30x40 inch fiber). Somehow I need to make some 24x36 on my "New" Epson 7800. Add on top of that is that I want to use my most recently acquired BEOON Leica copy stand to make digital copies of some of my negatives (135 and 120) and print these negatives with Piezography mucho big for comparision.

Even you guys who might be bored with my images might be interested is seeing the new twists. I plan on making this like a three hour art show/exhibition that will be kinda crazy even for me. Not that I'm Salgado, but it will be truely remarkable how far a guy can go without the best photo lab in Paris using a 650 square foot 1 bedroom apartment that he shares with a blogger and a vicious lap dog.

My next task is create a bio. I was taught in grad school that I should write my bio like my own obituary. LOL.

Cal

 

[dshfoto]

Cal,

True, I did say " ... with the proper lens and a good exposure that one can expect end results perhaps almost as good as his Imacon. ..." However, you can draw your own conclusions by looking at the write-up and the file links. It seems to me after playing with digital copy of negatives that the lens is extremely critical. The M8 results should have been much better. Also the sensor size is undeniably important. Which means that the Nikon 800e image is about 15-1/3 inches square without being resized at 300 pixels/in (4614x4614 pixels) . The full Imacon PII image is 23-1/4" x 23-1/4" at 300 pixels / in (6977 x 6977 pixels) or about 64 MB files in grayscale tiff.
The results are posted here, with links to the files:
http://72.0.232.59/dshfoto/d8/node/23
I am really interested to see what the results will be with the Pentax 645D and the M Mono.
Steve

 

[dshfoto]

Cal,

Does the BEOON base allow a 4"x5" negative to be copied? With any lens you have? Just curious.
Steve

 

[Calzone]

Cal,

True, I did say " ... with the proper lens and a good exposure that one can expect end results perhaps almost as good as his Imacon. ..." However, you can draw your own conclusions by looking at the write-up and the file links. It seems to me after playing with digital copy of negatives that the lens is extremely critical. The M8 results should have been much better. Also the sensor size is undeniably important. Which means that the Nikon 800e image is about 15-1/3 inches square without being resized at 300 pixels/in (4614x4614 pixels) . The full Imacon PII image is 23-1/4" x 23-1/4" at 300 pixels / in (6977 x 6977 pixels) or about 64 MB files in grayscale tiff.
The results are posted here, with links to the files:
http://72.0.232.59/dshfoto/d8/node/23
I am really interested to see what the results will be with the Pentax 645D and the M Mono.
Steve

Steve,

Thanks for the clarity and the examples.

For me I'll be using the chrome Viso 65/3.5 a very old Leica Macro lens and a 90/4 Super Elmar. My thinking is that focal length of the imaging lens is somewhat important.

Surprisingly I think Macro lenses that are flat field tend to have moderate contrast and the Viso lense is not only period correct for use on the BEOON it is actually originally designed to be used as the lens on the BEOON copying system. Not sure how advanced this old retro stuff will work on today's modern digital standards.

My thinking is that for 120 film that using my 90/4.0 Macro Elmar will likely give me a better result than using the 65/3.5. The loss of magnification gets offset by the larger size of the negative, and I think focal length will be part of optimizing for each negative size.

The issue of resizing is really abstract to me because I have no understanding of the math other than downsizing increasing resolution, although recently I've been cropping some files to square making 18MP RAW files basically only 12MP and printing different sizes to see where and how the highlights get washed out. There definitely is an optimum print size.

I also wonder since I'm only using no Bayer filter array and using no interpolation (added math and crunching) how much less smearing of the data I will get. I expect the files to be cleaner and with less artifact, but I expect more resolution than any color sensor, maybe even up to 1/3rd more resolution than say a M9. Put another way my 18MP CCD sensor can be thought to be effectively like a 24MP color sensor.

Anyways I will be happy even if my results are good enough for small prints of limited size because I want to do editing of over 100K negatives. Any ability to print larger is just a bonus. Would be ideal if I could print for exhibition using my film negatives printing with Piezography. I don't expect to print as large as I can with digital captures shot with my Monochrom.

I know that one day I will have the option to wet print eventually, or I could take the best negatives I want to print for exhibition and pay for expensive drum scans.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Cal,

Does the BEOON base allow a 4"x5" negative to be copied? With any lens you have? Just curious.
Steve

Steve,

I believe so. It seems the base without any mask has the cutout for 4x5. This is a very good question. Hmmm...

I will be playing with my system soon. My intent is to not buy a Visoflex housing if I can avoid it. I figure that I can use my slacker "delayed view" and zooming in on the grain on the negative using my 27 inch EIZO to nail the focus. I should be able to get into the ball park with framing and focus by just chimping the camera, but then importing the shot into lightroom to perform a zoomed chimping. "Delayed View" in theory should eventually comfirm perfect focus. I think the setup will take some time as the magnification charts that are printed no longer apply.

Cal

 

[dshfoto]

Cal,

Yes, I found that I did a lot of chimping on the set up to verify the focus when using a camera to copy. Not to complicate things unduly, but I also found that using a flash takes the element of vibration out of the equation. If you use a steady light source, but things don't seem quite right try using a diffused flash light source, and cable release, or the self-timer on the camera. I found the self timer even better than a cable release.
I wonder if that lens would fit on the Leica Focaslide that I have. If I get time I will dig it out and look at the mount. The Focaslide has a bellows. The whole thing is much more complicated than the BEOON because you need a easel with a copy stand riser to hold the unit. The BEOON is great and that lens is super!
Steve

 

[Calzone]

Cal,

Yes, I found that I did a lot of chimping on the set up to verify the focus when using a camera to copy. Not to complicate things unduly, but I also found that using a flash takes the element of vibration out of the equation. If you use a steady light source, but things don't seem quite right try using a diffused flash light source, and cable release, or the self-timer on the camera. I found the self timer even better than a cable release.
I wonder if that lens would fit on the Leica Focaslide that I have. If I get time I will dig it out and look at the mount. The Focaslide has a bellows. The whole thing is much more complicated than the BEOON because you need a easel with a copy stand riser to hold the unit. The BEOON is great and that lens is super!
Steve

Steve,

Thanks so much for sharing your experiance.

When you mention "that lens" I suppose you are speaking of the 75/4.0 Rodenstock-D.

I imagine that the 75/4.0 being an enlarger lens has the standard M-39 LTM thread, and that this is kinda standard on a Leica bellows, except ones that are for "R" lenses.

Know that all the extension tubes that came with mu BEOON are LTM, and it is only due to extension tube "A" that has a M-mount that I can mount either the 65/3.5 Viso Macro lens or my M-mount 90/4.0 Macro Elmar.

As far as a light source goes I have $200.00 GePe cold light table that is kinda high end. My friend Richard at B&H steered me towards my GePe showing me the floor model which he says has been on for 5 years straight. Richard also sold me a Schnieder 8X lupe.

I figure that I have to optimize the distance from the light source after I figure out the F-stop that maximizes resolution. I think for the 65/3.5 Leitz recommends F-11.0, but I will confirm where diffraction begins. Generally with slower lenses it can be more than F5.6 because the light gets bent less and is more like a straighter shot to the film or sensor.

The Leica instructions show using books and a piece of glass as scaffolding.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Tried to focus blindly chimping last night with my MM and BEOON. Kinda seems impossible. Macro photography gets complicated fast.

Anyways I'm thinking that the long-term solution is either a M-246 or SL is a great solution. The draw of the SL is using lenses like my 50 Lux "E60" and Noct-Nikkor with color for Maggie's blog. Also it is an excuse to use all those single coated LTM lenses for color rendering. Really out of the box and my comfort zone, but what growth.

My Gepe light table is a cold cathode light source. What made the Gepe a $200.00 light table is that the light is so diffused and even. Also it is built as a work horse for editing of slides.

BTW my Monochrom is a keeper.

Cal

 

[jsrockit]

The draw of the SL is using lenses like my 50 Lux "E60" and Noct-Nikkor with color for Maggie's blog.

The Noct-Nikkor would be a really nice with that. Did we figure out a date yet? I'm open to anything.

Cal, maybe I can bring my 58mm to your work on Monday. I'm off.

 

[dshfoto]

Cal
The 75/4.0 does have the standard M-39 LTM. You have embarked on an interesting project. I am very surprised that Leica and some of the other camera mfgs have not spent more time on developing an optimized system for using their digital cameras for negative copy. Esp. since so many walked away from the scanner market.
I started out using a Bowens Illumitran slide copier which allows for an adjustment in the flash intensity. I don't recommend it for a number of reasons, but you can read about it here http://members.bitstream.net/tlmartin/copiers.html
At the very least one needs a couple of neutral density filters between the light source and the negative, because the beast was designed for ISO 50 film.
I once made up a box out of matte board, so the interior was illuminated with a flash. That way I could place a negative just in front of cut out hole in the box, and use the wall on the other side of the box for a flat even light source. You could just set the BEOON over a hole and use the bottom of the box. A flash into a hole in the side of the box should provide even illumination esp if you use a diffuser on the flash. Then you have total control of the light intensity (even TTL) and you take out all of the vibration issues from the system. The box sort of takes the place of books and a piece of glass as scaffolding.
Let us know how it works out.

Steve

 

[Calzone]

The Noct-Nikkor would be a really nice with that. Did we figure out a date yet? I'm open to anything.

Cal, maybe I can bring my 58mm to your work on Monday. I'm off.

John,

I give you my 28/1.4 AF-D as collateral. BTW this is a fun lens and I think it fits your style, except it is kinda huge. LOL.

Since I kinda love my MM the SL looks like the crazy thing to do. I will try and sell my boxed LN black paint 35 Cron to get the down payment soon, then I'll have to rob a few 7-11's for the rest of the money. I also have to get a new art camera to be a fill-in when I send in my Monochrom for sensor replacement. In my work prints you can see where in the clouds or sky where there are spots of corrosion. Nothing that spot-healing couldn't correct, but you know me I'm a lazy slacker.

Now another project will likely convert my 3880 eventually into a color printer when I put the 7800 online. Anyways this recycling of equipment will save me money eventually one day. LOL.

When I convert to color I'll have a set of B&W refillable carts available for any 3880 owners out there. Steve-Joe??? Of course you will have to chip these carts because I will recycle the chips to a new set of refillable carts.

It seems Maggie got this big gig for a big brand name everyone knows. The only hint I can give out is that it involves a woman Billionaire with a capitol "B" that everyone knows.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Cal
The 75/4.0 does have the standard M-39 LTM. You have embarked on an interesting project. I am very surprised that Leica and some of the other camera mfgs have not spent more time on developing an optimized system for using their digital cameras for negative copy. Esp. since so many walked away from the scanner market.
I started out using a Bowens Illumitran slide copier which allows for an adjustment in the flash intensity. I don't recommend it for a number of reasons, but you can read about it here http://members.bitstream.net/tlmartin/copiers.html
At the very least one needs a couple of neutral density filters between the light source and the negative, because the beast was designed for ISO 50 film.
I once made up a box out of matte board, so the interior was illuminated with a flash. That way I could place a negative just in front of cut out hole in the box, and use the wall on the other side of the box for a flat even light source. You could just set the BEOON over a hole and use the bottom of the box. A flash into a hole in the side of the box should provide even illumination esp if you use a diffuser on the flash. Then you have total control of the light intensity (even TTL) and you take out all of the vibration issues from the system. The box sort of takes the place of books and a piece of glass as scaffolding.
Let us know how it works out.

Steve

Steve,

Anyways I'm going to try and do some crazy things that might work.

It seems the Gepe has the correct amount of brightness to view chromes. Not sure if this is just right or too bright. I do know that is designed for even diffused illumination. Not an inexpensive light box, and probably one of the more expensive.

Cal

 

[jsrockit]

John,

I give you my 28/1.4 AF-D as collateral. BTW this is a fun lens and I think it fits your style, except it is kinda huge. LOL.

It's not necessary. I appreciate it, but it's not my thing right now.

Since I kinda love my MM the SL looks like the crazy thing to do. I will try and sell my boxed LN black paint 35 Cron to get the down payment soon...

Sounds like the right move to me.

 

[Calzone]

It's not necessary. I appreciate it, but it's not my thing right now.



Sounds like the right move to me.

John,

I'm feeling a big ground swell happening, and life could not be more crazy or fuller. I'm just going with the flow because it feels right. I feel something is going to give.

Would you want to check out and compare a Noct-Nikkor on your DF? I'm thinking that the rendering is more romantic than your 58/1.4.

As I tell my boss at work: "No sweat off my balls." Understand that my boss, with a thick accent of a Chinese immigrant, now uses my expression. How unprofessional. LOL.

Cal

 

[Particular]

Tried to focus blindly chimping last night with my MM and BEOON. Kinda seems impossible.
Cal

A visoflex seems like the obvious answer. Or an OOTGU.
Come to think of it, I have devised a M-Leica back with a Nikon screen for a film body which you could use. You would focus, and then swap bodies with the monochrome.

 

[Calzone]

A visoflex seems like the obvious answer. Or an OOTGU.
Come to think of it, I have devised a M-Leica back with a Nikon screen for a film body which you could use. You would focus, and then swap bodies with the monochrome.

Christian,

I just need to get in the ball park and figure out a general set-up. Once I get beyond the basic set-up chimping and my delayed view will get me home.

It seems that the focusing aid that comes with the BEOON is of little help, or I have not figured out how to utilize it in a positive manner.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Steve,

I don't have the exact measurement, but it seems that the BEOON is not able to do 4x5. Off hand it looks to be about 3 1/2x4 the opening in the base without any mask.

Cal

 

[Particular]

Christian, I just need to get in the ball park and figure out a general set-up. Once I get beyond the basic set-up chimping and my delayed view will get me home. It seems that the focusing aid that comes with the BEOON is of little help, or I have not figured out how to utilize it in a positive manner. Cal

I didn't realize that it came with the turret finder. Isn't it just ltm mount? I noticed that your beoon has a ltm-to-m adapter.
That finder should be pretty good for checking infinity and rendering on ltm lenses.