Mechanical XPAN, is it possible?

I'm also planning to build a Fauxpan. My body of choice is the Nimslo 3D for several reasons:
- once you remove the 4 lens "cones" the film gate is already 74mm wide
- the winder advances the film with one stroke and moves freely, so nothing to hack, it just works
- I like small cameras. This one is also light despite the metal chassis.
I already have the body, I bought a cheap one with a dead electronic shutter, but the mechanical winder works fine.
Now I'm waiting for a good lens opportunity. Ideally I'd like a Bronica 40mm because it would be very close to the field of view of an Xpan with the 45mm, and the aperture is relatively wide (f4).
 
Phildjii said:
I'm also planning to build a Fauxpan. My body of choice is the Nimslo 3D for several reasons:
- once you remove the 4 lens "cones" the film gate is already 74mm wide
- the winder advances the film with one stroke and moves freely, so nothing to hack, it just works
- I like small cameras. This one is also light despite the metal chassis.
I already have the body, I bought a cheap one with a dead electronic shutter, but the mechanical winder works fine.
Now I'm waiting for a good lens opportunity. Ideally I'd like a Bronica 40mm because it would be very close to the field of view of an Xpan with the 45mm, and the aperture is relatively wide (f4).
Click to expand...


Cool! Let us know how it works. It's funny because a Nimslo body is on the way. I have the Bronica 40mm and figured it would be a pain to swap it on the Wirgin because of the RF, plus the Wirgin is pretty big. Big thanks to A. Bieber on flickr for the inspiration. BTW I think the Bronica 50mm f2.8 would be a good match as well.
 
Another Nimslo conversion, nice. Text says Fuji 45mm f5.6 in 00 shutter. Likely from the GS465W and transferred to another shutter. It's a rangefinder so short focal distance would be expected?
 
I was thinking about the same problem.
The Fuji is a nice solution and if one prepares the film in advance with two canisters, the problem of unloading in a dark bag can be avoided. Remain two issues: 1- the choice of lenses and 2- a decent viewfinder

The other solution is the 135W back for the Bronica ETRS. it's really elegant, but they are rare, and very expensive.

Question: Would someone know what should be necessary to transform a 135N back into a 135W?
 
The simple process is creation of film holders for 35mm out of 120 film reels. If you use a 120 camera with spacing externally indicated you will get your framing correct. Use a 35mm canister to take up the film, saving the issue with opening in the dark. I use an Ensign 220 Auto-range. Focus is then easy though framing would require extra work I haven't done.

In the end, I just crop 120 if that's the aspect I want.
 
ok...
thinking of this: is there a way of altering a regular 120 bronica etrs back to advance only half the regular distance?
If so, by cutting a slot in a dark slide, there could be a way to get 30 panos from a 120 film.
 
Here is a Nimslo conversion with Bronica 40mm. More complicated to convert compared to the Wirgin. The casting is difficult to remove and once gone the camera isn't light-proof. But it is more compact.

The film advance gave me some grief. Very rough with incorrect spacing. But strangely it appears to have fixed itself. I have to test it again to see if the leaks are gone.

I might not need the RF; zone focusing is quite forgiving at 40mm.

DSCF7348 by Olivier, on Flickr



DSCF7349 by Olivier, on Flickr
 
That was fast! Very nice!
But wow, the flange distance makes it a big longer than I imagined. Apart from a 47mm Super-Angulon, is there any alternative with a shorter distance?

Edit: the picture from the top makes it look long, but in fact it is not that bad, about 12cm maybe?
 
Yeah it looks a bit silly. It's 13cm long so not too unwieldy.



The Super-Angulon is a nice compact option. I think the Mamiya Press 50mm f/6.3 has a short flange focal distance (~50mm) but the lens itself is huge.
 
OlivierAOP said:
Yeah it looks a bit silly. It's 13cm long so not too unwieldy.
Click to expand...
So it is barely longer than my Pentax MX with an FA 31mm on it, and probably lighter. Not bad at all!
In the meantime I got my hand on a Nikon AF600, which has a "panorama" toggle so I can practice framing in 1/2.7 before I manage to build my Nimspan. A poorman's Fauxpan, but it fits in a pocket 🙂
 
Probably a silly question, but I know almost nothing about view lenses: for a Super-Angulon 47, is the flange distance from the rear of the lens, or from the shutter plane?
 
Phildjii said:
Probably a silly question, but I know almost nothing about view lenses: for a Super-Angulon 47, is the flange distance from the rear of the lens, or from the shutter plane?
Click to expand...
The distance should be close to the rear face of the lens board. It would probably be about equivalent to the shutter plane but you would need to do a visual check before shimming the lens to the exact registration.
Phil Forrest
 
Yes usually the flange distance is from the back of the shutter mount. It'll be a few mm behind the the shutter plane, which for a symmetrical lens is usually coincident with the principal plane and centre of the lens.

Here is pic with the Nimslo with 40mm. Had to find another body: a small spring in the advance mechanism was bent. Advance is still a bit weird; two frames overshot by 7-10 perfs...

SIM00118-2 by Olivier, on Flickr
 
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