Most compact, OVF, non-Leica camera + lenses?

Ko.Fe.

Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
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I like Canon RP for indoors. Good high ISO, eye focus tracking.
But EVF is no good for me while at sunny outdoors. I have light sensitive eyes and wearing sunglasses. EVF, strong sun and sunglasses appears as not something I like.
Don't know if it is due to smaller size of RP EVF or else.

I got RP to be kind of beater. It doesn't cost arm and leg. Service is nearby.
Camera is weather sealed.

Oly E-PL1 I have is great, but screen framing with sun into the screen is just as bad as EVF and sun to me.

I checked on Canon SL3, tiny SLR camera, but only one compact lens for it and it is not in my preferable FOV.

X100V is great, except no quick manual focusing. It has focus distance scale in VF, but it is so small, I can't see it. How snappy, quick it is with center point AF and recompose?

Another option for outdoors beater with OVF and serviceable not in another country, continent seems to be also within FujiFilm. X-Pro 2.
X-Pro 3 is great but its OVF framelines and only 35mm equivalent and narrower, if I'm not mistaken.

Is here any really compact X-mount lenses with focus scale and wider FOV? Something between 20-35mm FOV. I need 35mm equivalent most. 20 and 50 mm equivalents are optional. I don't need super fast lenses, but compact and with manual focus scale. Doesn't have to be only FujiFilm made. Cheaper is better for beater.
 
The 14/2.8 and 23/1.4 Fujinons (probably some others) have DOF and distance markings on the lens barrel. The manual focus is achieved by sliding the focus ring backwards--the way Tokina lenses do it if you're familiar with that. Both lenses are somewhat large compared to the smaller Fujis, like the 16/2.8, 23/2, 35/2 that are standard mirrorless, focus-by-wire types.

There is an electronic DOF and distance scale in the viewfinders of the X-Pro2 bodies. It's helpful but a bit of a PITA compared to a quick glance at the lens body.

I prefer the focus and recompose method myself. I never use anything except the center AF point with all Fujis, Nikons and my GR. To me it's faster and more like the way I've always shot with split image prisms in SLRs and Leica rangefinder.

Like you, Ko.Fe., I find using EVFs outdoors in bright light to often be a nightmare of trying to see the image in the finder or making out details in the image if I can see it. I love the OVF in the X-Pro2 for that reason. It's not a Leica viewfinder but it's AF and it works good for an old guy with bad eyes like me.
 
The X-Pro 2's OVF is both incredibly functional and highly customisable. I was a little surprised at how much you can add in (or take away, of course). The electronic DOF and distance scales Dogman's referring to are surprisingly useful; I don't really miss the on-lens versions, I just wish that native X-mount lenses had proper focusing helicals. The 18/2 in particular has such a long focus throw that I often find myself spinning the focus ring wildly just trying to remember which end I'm at and which way it's supposed to go.

Personally, I'm just hoping the various third party super-wides start including electronic connections soon so that they can start controlling/moving the OVF's framelines like a native lens does.

Incidentally, if you want a compact kit, the 27/2.8 (which is what, a 40mm equivalent?) is about as good as it gets. The original one lived on my X-Pro 1 for years as a travel kit. I'm sorely tempted to get the upgraded one with the aperture ring; I'm not sure I can justify the expense of the trade up, but it would vastly improve the usability of that lens (I hate scroll-wheel controls for aperture).
 
X100V is great, except no quick manual focusing. It has focus distance scale in VF, but it is so small, I can't see it. How snappy, quick it is with center point AF and recompose?

The X100V is very quick to focus and recompose. You can also set AF to another button to shoot more like zone focus. Point the center box at something the distance away you want, hit the AF button and now the camera stays at that distane.


Using the wide AF (or face AF) also works very well. And would likely be very fast for your street shooting. But you would need to spend time learning to trust it.

The X100F has an option for large display icons but the MF scale isn't able to be set in that mode. Don't know if the x100V changed that. That scale is great, esp. when in aperture priority mode since the indicator changes with the DOF.

EVF in monochrome with red focus peaking is also another really good option.

For a wider version of the X100 put a Ricoh GW-4 on it and you are about 26mm. Blocks a fair amount of the OVF though so EVF is better with that one.

Shawn
 
It appears there is only realy one option outside of dslr realm that fits your description , Xpro2 with chinese manual lenses for manual focusing .
 
The 14/2.8 and 23/1.4 Fujinons (probably some others) have DOF and distance markings on the lens barrel. ...

I prefer the focus and recompose method myself. I never use anything except the center AF point with all Fujis, Nikons and my GR. To me it's faster and more like the way I've always shot with split image prisms in SLRs and Leica rangefinder.

.

Focus and recompose AF works for me with static objects.
Those two lenses are withing compact SLR lenses it seems and should balance well on X-Pro body.

I think if lens is 28mm equivalent and wider AF @f8 shouldn't be a problem for street photography. I had AF only Konica off-road film camera with 28 mm lens and it was OK.



Have you tried an ovf in the Rp’s hotshoe?

I'm OK with big 20mm Russar VF on small LTM and M, but on taller RP with slightly raised VF it is kind of silly. CV 21/4 doesn't work well with RP corners. My SLR compact 19 mm prime or any compact non Canon RF mount SLR prime is ruined by SLR mount to RF mount adapter. It just bulky and ugly.
 
It appears there is only realy one option outside of dslr realm that fits your description , Xpro2 with chinese manual lenses for manual focusing .

Yes, I just checked, tiny, under 100 USD. 25 1.8. Just as I use 35mm on Ms. No rf focusing, I set focus distance on scale and frame in VF during sun hours. Is parallax going to be big problem? I have to check reviews on this lens.
 
I'm OK with big 20mm Russar VF on small LTM and M, but on taller RP with slightly raised VF it is kind of silly. CV 21/4 doesn't work well with RP corners. My SLR compact 19 mm prime or any compact non Canon RF mount SLR prime is ruined by SLR mount to RF mount adapter. It just bulky and ugly.

I understand. How about a Ricoh GR, GR2, or GR3 with snap focus and an ovf? There’s also a 21mm adapter for these cameras. These seem perfect for you. Set snap to 2m or whatever distance you like and carry on just like a Leica.
 
I understand. How about a Ricoh GR, GR2, or GR3 with snap focus and an ovf? There’s also a 21mm adapter for these cameras. These seem perfect for you. Set snap to 2m or whatever distance you like and carry on just like a Leica.

This could be my bingo. :)

21, 28 and fw 35, 50 (I don't need big files). I have all these focal lengths viewfinders for bright sun use. It could also serve as camera for my fixie rides and crazy dog walks, where I want it as small as possible.

I was told with GRs I could save three distances to C1, C2 and C3 to switch between them. This is similar how I use RF lens focus tab. Close, middle and far.
 
This could be my bingo. :)

21, 28 and fw 35, 50 (I don't need big files). I have all these focal lengths viewfinders for bright sun use. It could also serve as camera for my fixie rides and crazy dog walks, where I want it as small as possible.

I was told with GRs I could save three distances to C1, C2 and C3 to switch between them. This is similar how I use RF lens focus tab. Close, middle and far.

Exactly, and they are all reasonably affordable.
 
Third party lenses don’t bring up parallax corrected framelines on X-Pro cameras. Just a set of framelines at infinity and a set for a closer distance (don’t remember which) and you have to estimate the coverage for any distance in between.

You could get either and X-E or X-Pro model and use the EVF or focus scale to focus and then frame via an external viewfinder for whatever lens you’re using in the hotshoe. You can even set the EVF to magnify up to 10x so you can use it a bit like a Barnack, focusing and framing with two separate finders.

The 2.8/14, 1.4/16 and 1.4/23 lenses have a focus clutch, where you can pull back the focus ring to reveal a distance scale which you can use to focus manually. The distance scale on my 2.8/14 is a little off and I find the distance scale more frustrating than helpful. Also, as mentioned before, these lenses are huge compared to their M mount equivalents. They do have smaller wide angle lenses too, but no focus scale on the lens: 2.8/16, 2/18 and 2/23.

If you go with a Ricoh GR, the only difference between the GR and GR II is that the GR II can transfer pictures with WiFi. If you don't need WiFi getting a GR would save you some cash. The GR III does seem to be an upgrade from the GR as it has a higher MP sensor, faster autofocus and IBIS but no on camera flash.
 
GR is a good option. I don't have the OVF accessory for mine but I do have the 21mm lens adapter. Optical quality is very good for both the built-in lens and the 21m. The snap focus works nicely and the internal crop for 35mm viewpoint is good quality. The 50mm is not as good but totally useable.
 
Yes, I just checked, tiny, under 100 USD. 25 1.8. Just as I use 35mm on Ms. No rf focusing, I set focus distance on scale and frame in VF during sun hours. Is parallax going to be big problem? I have to check reviews on this lens.

Warning!!!
If the 25mm f1.8 you are looking at is the 7Artisans then beware. I have one for my EM10 and the focusing and DoF scales are pure fiction.
You simply cannot preset focus by scale with these lenses.
It is so bad that I cannot understand why no one who has this lens does not complain long and loud to 7Artisans about it.
If I want to prefocus by scale on my EM10 then I use my Olympus Pen F (film) half frame lenses on a properly shimmed adapter.
 
...
If you go with a Ricoh GR, the only difference between the GR and GR II is that the GR II can transfer pictures with WiFi. If you don't need WiFi getting a GR would save you some cash. The GR III does seem to be an upgrade from the GR as it has a higher MP sensor, faster autofocus and IBIS but no on camera flash.

GR line is little bit confusing. I guess, all with 18.3mm F/2.8 lens are good.
 
GR line is little bit confusing. I guess, all with 18.3mm F/2.8 lens are good.

Exactly... all of the APSC versions with the 18.3mm lenses are modern enough in usage. GR and GR II are very similar and are 16mp. GR III is the latest and is 24mp. The 4 previous models are called “GR Digital” and are older, tiny sensor cameras.
 
I am kinda surprised I didn’t see fuji 18/2 mentioned anywhere. I think there should be a frame for it in x-pro2, or whole viewfinder should match the view. This is my default lens or part of default kit with 35/1.4 (nice wider lens and standard/portrait lens). I think my favorite fuji lenses are 23/1.4 (just best in everything) and 16/1.4 (best in iq), but I end up keeping 18/2 on camera more often. I’m saying that to show that 18/2 is not even close to being as bad as people say. It’s truly a little gem
 
GR is a good option. I don't have the OVF accessory for mine but I do have the 21mm lens adapter. Optical quality is very good for both the built-in lens and the 21m. The snap focus works nicely and the internal crop for 35mm viewpoint is good quality. The 50mm is not as good but totally useable.

You can get an OVF cheap right now, Adorama has the Fujifilm VF-X21 on sale for $59 with free shipping. Framelines for 21 and 28mm just like the Ricoh. You can take a mask out of the finder to give it a wider FOV too.

Shawn
 
You can get an OVF cheap right now, Adorama has the Fujifilm VF-X21 on sale for $59 with free shipping. Framelines for 21 and 28mm just like the Ricoh. You can take a mask out of the finder to give it a wider FOV too.

Shawn

I'm good. I have 21, 28/35 VFs.
 
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