MP TA-1 <-- what's the story?

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mooge

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hey Tom!

what's the story behind your MP TA-1? how did you get it, etc...

cheers from Ottawa,
Dragunov.
 
Erik is right. It was assembled from some m3's and M2 parts floating around. Shintaro assembled most of it, we had it engraved and painted as well as having the long M2 shaft installed. It does have a M3 finder in it and the top-plate is a M3 one, but modified for the M2 counter! It also has the case hardened steel gears that would be in "real" MP. Works fine too.
 
There are two images of it on Stephen Gandy's page about Tom and his "uncollectibles":
http://www.cameraquest.com/TAnotcoll.htm

MPTA2.jpg
 
whoa...how does one go about modifying an m3 top plate to take the m2 frame counter? is it possible to modify an m2 top plate to take the m3 frame counter?
 
It is possible to modify anything to do what ever you wish for - but is it worth it? The MP TA-1 was made as a "fun" project and really did not involve huge costs as everything was available in various part bins.
 
it definitely sounds fun! what do you do to the top plate? cut off the ends and weld them back together? i suppose the parts for the frame counter just swap out.
 
As Tom said, it's a M3 top plate. I guess it was filled up then soldered a piece of brass to cover the frame counter window and drilled a hole for the M2 top plate screw. After that, engraved a small triangle for the M2 frame counter. I might try to do the similar project whenever I have time and enough parts.

See the photo below: top = bare M3 top plate spare part , middle= black paint M3 top plate spare part, bottom = M2 top plate with chrome/nickel removed.

attachment.php
 
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I was thinking about doing that to an M4 (I have been planning out a frankenleica project). I haven't done it yet (I am currently gathering supplies and making a jig for the cover work) but it looks pretty straight forward. Just take a peice of brass similar in thickness to the top cover, cut it to fit the round window, silver solder it in, and redrill for the m2 cover screw.

I am assuming swapping the winding/frame counter guts should be relatively painless.

I definately wouldn't attempt it on one that you wouldn't mind seriously screwing up though (I don't think you would get too many do-overs before the top would be shot)

Fun stuff.
 
aizan said:
can anybody translate? still, it doesn't say how to put an m3 frame counter on an m2.
Click to expand...

Oh, no. That website only shows how to put an M2 frame counter on a M3 modified top plate. And to put a M3 frame counter on a M2 top plate, do the reverse thing as you only make a bigger hole to accommodate the M3 frame counter with fine pitch.
 
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after examining some photographs of the top of the m3 and m2, i think it should be doable. the m2's counter screw does seem to be a little closer to the shutter button than the far edge of the m3's frame counter window. would there be any problems drilling a hole when another hole is already there? hmm, maybe i should take a class in machining.
 
I guess the hardest part ( impossible to find ) for the project is a body shell which has no self timer with lens release button guard and Buddha's ear type lugs plus original vulcanite cover it. Or an alternative way: find a M3 body shell which has a serial number around 900000 then send it to CRR-Luton to do a vulcanite re-covering job. The last but least trouble is ordering the replacement from cameraleather.com.
 
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