john neal
fallor ergo sum
I would say, have a look at Gordy Straps (sponsor here) - I have two or three wrist ones and they are excellent - I'm sure Gordon's neck ones would be great too. All are real value for money IMO
My first Leica IIIc and first Leica, some questions..
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I would say, have a look at Gordy Straps (sponsor here) - I have two or three wrist ones and they are excellent - I'm sure Gordon's neck ones would be great too. All are real value for money IMO
siracusa
Well-known
+1. Gordy straps really are excellent. I have a couple of Gordy neck straps, and they are my favourite straps. Brilliant value.
Fadedsun
Established
I went ahead and ordered an adjustable Gordy strap. Can't wait to get it. It will be much easier once I do because I've been carrying the camera around in my hand when I go out (surprisingly light!)
I'm still shooting my first roll. Being a student leaves me considerably less time to shoot, and the decreasing daylight in fall/winter hours doesn't help me out much either, but I've been managing to take at least one or two pictures a day. I'm getting used to using this camera and don't consider it slow at all. I could see how it would be in the heat of the moment, but I try and anticipate by setting everything beforehand so I'm ready by the time anything important happens anyway. The only thing that slows me down is the fact that it's meter-less and have been using a light meter app on my phone, or honestly just guessing based on past experience.
I'm still shooting my first roll. Being a student leaves me considerably less time to shoot, and the decreasing daylight in fall/winter hours doesn't help me out much either, but I've been managing to take at least one or two pictures a day. I'm getting used to using this camera and don't consider it slow at all. I could see how it would be in the heat of the moment, but I try and anticipate by setting everything beforehand so I'm ready by the time anything important happens anyway. The only thing that slows me down is the fact that it's meter-less and have been using a light meter app on my phone, or honestly just guessing based on past experience.
summar
Well-known
I was lucky. My inherited IIIf came with a 50mm viewfinder similar to the SBOOI marked "Albada." It figures, because the camera was bought in Holland and the inventor, Maj.-Gen. L.E.W. van Albada, was Dutch. I always use it when shooting with the 5cm Elmar. Could be a collector's item -- who knows?
Fadedsun
Established
I've been considering getting an external viewfinder. The SBOOI is a little pricey. I've heard of one from Voigtlander, but I can't find one at all on Ebay. Does anyone know the official name of it?
Regarding the 50mm/3.5 Elmar: is it necessary to use a lens hood or a filter? I've never heard people talk much about using filters on old lenses like these. My Elmar is a coated one from 1945 - I don't know how much of a difference that makes to the image quality that the lens produces vs. uncoated.
Regarding the 50mm/3.5 Elmar: is it necessary to use a lens hood or a filter? I've never heard people talk much about using filters on old lenses like these. My Elmar is a coated one from 1945 - I don't know how much of a difference that makes to the image quality that the lens produces vs. uncoated.
Bingley
Veteran
Welcome to RFF and congrats on the IIIc. I shoot a IIIc a lot (mine is from 1949) and use it most often with an Elmar 50/3.5. Youxin serviced the camera several years ago and the rf is very clear as a result. For framing, however, I always use the metal CV Bightline 50mm external vf. It's less expensive than the Leica finder, and gives you a bright vf at a 1:1 ratio. Really worth tracking one down.
Regarding the hood for the Elmar, I would recommend looking for the little VALOO hood designed for that lens. Personally, I use the cheaper FISON hood, but that makes aperture changing a little more tedious on the Elmar. Although the Elmars are not as flare prone as other lenses from that era (like the Summitar) the hood helps if you're shooting on a bright sunny day.
Regarding the hood for the Elmar, I would recommend looking for the little VALOO hood designed for that lens. Personally, I use the cheaper FISON hood, but that makes aperture changing a little more tedious on the Elmar. Although the Elmars are not as flare prone as other lenses from that era (like the Summitar) the hood helps if you're shooting on a bright sunny day.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
And as for filters; the real answer is please yourself. A lot of us don't bother for colour film, unless we are talking colour balance in the early morning or late evening outdoors.
And a few of us use a yellow/green for the cloud effect on proper B&W film. BTW, yellow/green is a sort of greenish yellow or else yellowish green. Not a choice of filters, although that can be argued about until the cows come home...
Regards, David
And as for filters; the real answer is please yourself. A lot of us don't bother for colour film, unless we are talking colour balance in the early morning or late evening outdoors.
And a few of us use a yellow/green for the cloud effect on proper B&W film. BTW, yellow/green is a sort of greenish yellow or else yellowish green. Not a choice of filters, although that can be argued about until the cows come home...
Regards, David
pete hogan
Well-known
Certainly try a yellow filter with B&W. Dignifies the sky. And try the Leica "FEDOO" Rh light red filter, may reduce distant haze with B&W. They also can provide useful reduction in bright conditions.
summar
Well-known
I like to use a hood with older lenses. The official Leitz hoods for the Elmar, FISON and VALOO, are very expensive of course. A much cheaper way is to use Series VI accessories. You need a 36mm push-on Series VI adapter ring and a Series VI hood. (There's currently a 36.5mm Ser. VI push-on ring that could be made to fit with a little judicious fiddling, also a selection of Ser. VI hoods.) The old Series hoods were customarily made for normal lenses like the 5cm Elmar. Series VI filters are unthreaded and fit between the lens ring, which is always threaded on the inside and a retaining ring or lens hood, also always threaded.
Not for Leica purists of course, but I'm not a purist.
About Voigtlander finders -- excellent but very expensive and are usually available only for lenses with focal lengths other than 50mm.
Not for Leica purists of course, but I'm not a purist.
About Voigtlander finders -- excellent but very expensive and are usually available only for lenses with focal lengths other than 50mm.
barnwulf
Well-known
I bought a IIIc that had a very dim rangefinder. Cleaning can help, but I had Youxin put in a new beam splitter and the difference was amazing. It's nice and bright now. I also use Leicas bright line accessory viewfinder that slips into accessory shoe. It turned out to be a nice setup for me. - jim
ray*j*gun
Veteran
NO association with this outfit but I found a series V item for my Argus A2b here
http://www.songofsnow.com/Series-VI-6-s/65.htm?searching=Y&sort=7&cat=65&show=50&page=1
http://www.songofsnow.com/Series-VI-6-s/65.htm?searching=Y&sort=7&cat=65&show=50&page=1
Pioneer
Veteran
I have used Song of Snow for a large number of hard to find vintage filters or Series accessories and I can heartily recommend them.
Fadedsun
Established
Well, it looks like the unthinkable happened. When I finished my first roll I happily went to rewind it, but I felt some resistance immediately upon turning the rewind crank. I spun the crank a little harder and heard something loosen, and I thought I was rolling all my film back into the canister. Later I found out it actually snapped in half.
I went to get the roll developed and they told me only about a 1/4 of the roll was in there. I went back home and opened up the bottom of the camera and there was the rest of my roll. I was certain I loaded it correctly because the shutter button would spin whenever I cocked the shutter. Maybe at some point the roll got loose and I wasn't exposing film anymore.
At any rate, lesson learned and now I know to be more careful loading a bottom loader :/ I tried a method of not cutting the roll, but I guess from now on I'll trim the leader.
I went to get the roll developed and they told me only about a 1/4 of the roll was in there. I went back home and opened up the bottom of the camera and there was the rest of my roll. I was certain I loaded it correctly because the shutter button would spin whenever I cocked the shutter. Maybe at some point the roll got loose and I wasn't exposing film anymore.
At any rate, lesson learned and now I know to be more careful loading a bottom loader :/ I tried a method of not cutting the roll, but I guess from now on I'll trim the leader.
Pioneer
Veteran
Over the years I have piddled around with numerous different ways to load the Barnack LTMs but have found that trimming the leader properly, as recommended by Leica themselves, is the best solution. It is a PITA but I kind of consider learning to do these things properly is a condition of ownership.
But each person seems to want to invent, or use, an alternative method. I guess that is the fun of still using old cameras.
But each person seems to want to invent, or use, an alternative method. I guess that is the fun of still using old cameras.
RichL
Well-known
The shutter speed dial always turns, it's the take-up knob you need to watch.
Like Pioneer, I trim the film and load. I trim all my film when I get it then put them back in their cans and boxes so there is no hassle when I'm out and about.
Like Pioneer, I trim the film and load. I trim all my film when I get it then put them back in their cans and boxes so there is no hassle when I'm out and about.
Particular
Disassembler, occasional reassembler
It sounds to me like you forgot to swing the rewind lever forward to "R" before winding it back. If this was the case, the take up spool locked up, and you forced the film, and broke it. When I wind back, there is not a lot of resistance.
On the loading issue, I am one of those people who use an alternate method. I don't re-trim the leader, and if I bulk load, I don't trim at all. I use a NY metro card, but a business card will do, and slot it in over the shutter opening. I then slip the end on the spool, and slide the film, canister, spool and all behind the card (so it doesn't get caught up in the shutter opening). I push it down, and pull the card out, and close the bottom. In my opinion, it Is the most fuss free loading method.
Fadedsun
Established
I did swing it back to "R" when I wound the film back. I honestly don't know what went wrong. It's possible the film stopped advancing at some point. I loaded another roll just now, and the rewind knob is turning as I advanc the film for my two empty shots to take up the slack in the roll. Hopefully this won't be a repeat event when I'm done with the roll.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
I had this happen a while ago, hope I've remembered correctly, the take up spool is on a clutch and it needed adjusting. The film would start to unwind (ending up loosely around the spool) and jam after a few shots.
Hope this helps.
Regards, David
Dez
Bodger Extraordinaire
The film tore in half? That seems to be the only thing possible, given that you had something to develop, and subsequently had more film left behind. Presumably the last quarter of your pix were OK, and the first three quarters got jammed up somehow. Possibly it had come off the takeup spool, or the spool wasn't turning when you were winding. Are there mangled sprocket holes in the left-behind film? Check that the takeup spool turns when you are winding, even when you hold the end with your fingers. there is a clutch in there, but the spool should turn well unless you provide a lot of resistance.
Cheers,
Dez
Fadedsun
Established
To top it all off a huge chunk of vulcanite peeled off while I was taking a photo today. I had to super glue it back on. It didn't even seem like any of it was loose or ready to peel off either. I took a photo, and when I took my hand away from the body a piece came right off with my palm.
