raid
Dad Photographer
There is strong support for LR4 here.
As for the Summicron-C, my lens has not been filed.
As for the Summicron-C, my lens has not been filed.
Ronchnam
Established
Hi Tom, I have one which I use extensively, no problems at all on an M8.2.
Hi,
I have the Summicron C40 on my M8.2 no problem too. It works even better on th M8 because the image fits quite exactly the 35 mm frame lines which is a little wider on the M8.2. For perfect use you may modify the lens to show 35 frame lines like this : http://photo.net/leica-rangefinders-forum/00CcwG
Regards
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
I guess that those who didn't see a difference did not update the process tot 2012
Raid, when I upgraded from LR3 to 4.1, LR asks you whether you'd like to upgrade/reprocess the images already in your Lightroom library with the 4.1 algorithms. I noticed an improvement in all images, regardless of ISO. Specifically, better control of both highlight close to the white clipping point, and also shadows. The amount of improvement varied with the image, but it was evident in all images. It was worth my while to revisit old images and make adjustments using the improved controls.
LR4 is quite inexpensive so I'd see no point in getting LR3 - the incremental cost is peanuts. Was LR3 good? Yes. Is LR4.1 a worthwhile upgrade? In my opinion, yes.
With digital I only shoot RAW, to give me the most flexibility in processing and to retain the full data set at capture. Shooting JPG bakes in the camera's time-of-exposure settings for many parameters, like white balance. JPGs are also a lossy format (varying amounts of data compression is used, depending on the amount of detail in the image), whereas RAW is lossless (all image data is retained).
So, Raid, is it a keeper? Unfortuantely, my used M8's RF is off. Luckily, I can return it for another one so I don't have to pay for the adjustment.
lynnb
Veteran
robert blu
quiet photographer
Interesting comments about LR3 and/or 4. I think I'll upgrade, but another learning curve...
robert
robert
willie_901
Veteran
The raw conversion is significantly better on LR4 especially at high ISO, well worth the upgrade.
This absolutely the case. In LR 4 the Develop Module was completely redone. The result is much finer control and less overlap between regions of the histogram as shadows and/or highlights are adjusted. The CA module is much more effective too. In the past 60 days there was a detailed article on the Luminance Landscape site that described the LR4 improvements in detail.
The CA module is much more effective too. .
Yes, it pretty much went from being horrible to working perfectly (for my needs).
raid
Dad Photographer
So, Raid, is it a keeper? Unfortuantely, my used M8's RF is off. Luckily, I can return it for another one so I don't have to pay for the adjustment.
My M8 is a keeper. It has the updating of an M8.2, but not the screen.
My first shots came ot looking good (to me).
raid
Dad Photographer
This is good to know that us "underpaid" educators get such breaks here and there!
raid
Dad Photographer
Interesting comments about LR3 and/or 4. I think I'll upgrade, but another learning curve...
robert
Robert, We have such a huge knowledge base at RFF.
The only bad result is GAS.
My first shots came ot looking good (to me).
Yes, they are certainly raid photos... which is good to see (the camera working for you).
raid
Dad Photographer
I am not giving up on "non-family" photography, but the times for other photos are not every day. I am getting a lot of joy by admiring my family. I am a happy man indeed. Isn't this what really counts? In the past, I used ropes to dangle down the Lower Antelope Canyon by Navajo Indians to take photos, and I would travel just for photography after dawn and before sunset. Now, I am a family man. 
Peter Klein
Well-known
Raid: Congratulations on your M8! See the long PM I sent you a couple of weeks ago for some info on IR filters and coding (basically, for 28mm and shorter, you need it, for 35mm, maybe, for 50mm and longer no). IMHO ISO 160 and 320 are great, ISO 640 is fine with "available light" with some grain/noise. Higher ISOs are for emergencies only.
I can only echo what other people have said about shooting RAW. The M8 and M9 JPGs are not very good. The RAW files are beautiful. It's the difference between letting the drug store develop your photos, and developing and printing them yourself.
I've found the M8 to be a wonderful B&W camera, so don't dismiss B&W conversion. Particularly for low-light shots. You can do color filtration after the shot is taken, and you have even more dodging, burning and contrast control than you would have in a B&W darkroom. Plus, you don't have to smell fixer.
As always, I love your family pictures. It's been wonderful to watch your daughters growing up. You will find yourself looking at those pictures far more than the one you took dangling over a cliff from a Navajo rope.
The wonderful thing about digital is that we can see the results of what we took immediately, adjust and shoot again. The histogram is your friend. It's basically a super light-meter. Shoot a test frame, adjust, then shoot again "for real."
Digital is indeed different from film. But the beauty of the digital M's is that you get to use most of the wonderful lenses you've acquired over the years, and you get the conveniences of digital with the same basic shooting style and feel you love in your film Ms.
Enjoy! It's going to be fun, and you'll take some great pictures. And the mistakes won't be wasted film, they will be free learning experiences. So "shoot first, and ask questions later."
--Peter
I can only echo what other people have said about shooting RAW. The M8 and M9 JPGs are not very good. The RAW files are beautiful. It's the difference between letting the drug store develop your photos, and developing and printing them yourself.
I've found the M8 to be a wonderful B&W camera, so don't dismiss B&W conversion. Particularly for low-light shots. You can do color filtration after the shot is taken, and you have even more dodging, burning and contrast control than you would have in a B&W darkroom. Plus, you don't have to smell fixer.
As always, I love your family pictures. It's been wonderful to watch your daughters growing up. You will find yourself looking at those pictures far more than the one you took dangling over a cliff from a Navajo rope.
The wonderful thing about digital is that we can see the results of what we took immediately, adjust and shoot again. The histogram is your friend. It's basically a super light-meter. Shoot a test frame, adjust, then shoot again "for real."
Digital is indeed different from film. But the beauty of the digital M's is that you get to use most of the wonderful lenses you've acquired over the years, and you get the conveniences of digital with the same basic shooting style and feel you love in your film Ms.
Enjoy! It's going to be fun, and you'll take some great pictures. And the mistakes won't be wasted film, they will be free learning experiences. So "shoot first, and ask questions later."
--Peter
denizg7
Well-known
Yesterday was the day on which I finall unwrapped the sealed M8, and I had Brian help me out in setting the basic settings in the camera for me. He also attached the Schott Glass screen.
I first used a Rigid Summicron while he used on his M8 the C-Sonnar. There is vast diference in how images look once taken between these two lenses. The colors looked rich and the image looked contrasty with the C-Sonnar, while the Rigid Summicron gave a subdued image. At first, I was disappointed, but then I felt fine with it all. I had an IR cut filter on the Summicron.
This morning, I tried our a few lenses without the IR cut filter. I used an Argus Cintar (in Contax mount), Canon 35/1.5, Summilux 75/1.4, Heliar 50/2, Heliar 50/3.5. It was fun. As a start, Brian set the camera up on JPG Fine.
Here are a few samples of what I got.
1. This was the first image captured with the camera. The lens was the Rigid Summicron.
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2. Summarit
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3/4. Canon 35/1.5
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5/6. Rigid Summicron
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I am trying to recall the order of the lenses here, so errors are possible. It is just a start for me to learn how each lens performs on the M8. I got many tips here at RFF. Thanks.
use only raw
raid
Dad Photographer
I will use RAW once I get LR4. By showing my posted images again, I am assuming that your short statement was judgement that the images kinda stink. Right?
lynnb
Veteran
Once you've installed LR4 make sure you download updates (currently LR4.1). Installing Lightroom updates is like doing a fresh installation, but any settings from a previous version are carried forward to the updated version. Feel welcome to contact me with any questions.
Regards,
Regards,
raid
Dad Photographer
I will take you up on your offer, Lynn. It is appreciated.
raid
Dad Photographer
********************* Tom ***************************
Tom asked for some snapshots with the Summicron C. I was given a minute for a few snapshots. They had no time for me since they were leaving to buy some school supplies for when school starts again.
I did not encounter any problems with this lens.
Tom asked for some snapshots with the Summicron C. I was given a minute for a few snapshots. They had no time for me since they were leaving to buy some school supplies for when school starts again.




I did not encounter any problems with this lens.
LeicaTom
Watch that step!
********************* Tom ***************************
Tom asked for some snapshots with the Summicron C. I was given a minute for a few snapshots. They had no time for me since they were leaving to buy some school supplies for when school starts again.
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I did not encounter any problems with this lens.
Looks like a great performer, I cannot afford the 1990's Cron anymore, this might be a alternative sharp lens.
I'm a big fan of fast stuff and I'm sure everyone knows how good the Canon/Sonnar f1.5/50mm is on the M8, I also use a Voightlander f1.5/50mm Nokton with very good results, stopped down a tad bit and it is also very sharp and still renders a nice Bokeh.
That about covers what I suggest on a Leica M8, ohh the CZJ Sonnar f4/135mm and the Leitz Hektor f4.5/135mm are also pretty "retro" looking lenses for the vintage *close up* work.
Tom
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