My R3M works, and I love it

[codyderek]

Hi guys,
In a prior post I had my first roll ruined by a lab and was wondering if perhaps was me or the camera (though I doubted it was the camera) Well I got my first developed roll back. I got a few great shots, the quality is so fantastic. The shots that turned out crumby were indoor shots that I didn't use any support to shoot in low light. I had a slow film also, so that was totally my fault. The ones that I did right look great though. I might post a few, but I am embarrassed since there are such great photographers here. I think I will be getting the hang of it in the coming rolls.

I noticed though that there sometimes seems to be more in the shot than I intended. When the 50mm framelines are showing, is what is shot contained within those boundaries?

I just put in a roll of Tri-X 400. I wish my first roll had turned out, it was black and white too. It is nice to see that my lens (Heliar classic 50mm f/2) works so great in colors too though.

One last question. Once I get used to this lens, and save some money, I have basically decided upon the 28mm Ultron. I am wondering though about whether to get the 28mm bright line finder, or perhaps the 28mm/35mm mini one. Does the mini one work well? I'd like to perhaps get a 35mm in the far future and having two in one would be a better deal and time saver.

Thanks guys,
Cody

 

[pevelg]

Glad everything worked out!!! I am planning a trip to Alaska this summer... Going to spend most of my time in Palmer and Wasila though. You live in one great state for photography! 🙂 I was there the last two summers as well. First time was with my FED 5, second with my R3M, and this summer will be with my M6 TTL.

It is very common for the picture to show more than what is actually shown in the framelines. This has something to do with how rangefinders work, though I forget exactly what (something about field of view at infinity compared to close up).

I would get a viewfinder that has both, and more importantly one that has paralyx compensation. I was so frustrated with my old 135mm Jupiter when all my portrait pictures only showed the nose and eyes, with everything below the nose cut off.

 

[sockeyed]

Consider a 28mm Skopar

Consider a 28mm Skopar

Have you considered the 28mm f/3.5 Skopar? It's a wonderful little lens with excellent image quality. The Ultron is also very good, of course, but it is very large, much bigger than your 50mm Heliar or even the 50mm f/1.5 Nokton. I love my little Skopar.

Here's a link to all my images on flickr taken with the Skopar. I only have a couple of shots on the Ultron, but they do give an idea of how it can be used in low light.

I had the mini-finder - it was surprisingly good and bright for its size, but I prefer the larger single focal length finders for their larger and brighter view. The 28mm Voigtlander finder is particularly nice as it is all-metal construction.

 

[biomed]

Ditto on the 28mm Skopar. It is a fantastic lens. It is the lens that I use the most with my R4m body.

 

[codyderek]

The Skopar does look great (great photos sockeyed), but my concern is that it is a slower lens, and I'd like to do some interior shots, where low light might be an issue. The size factor is a bit off putting on the Ultron.

 

[le vrai rdu]

Hi guys,
In a prior post I had my first roll ruined by a lab and was wondering if perhaps was me or the camera (though I doubted it was the camera) Well I got my first developed roll back. I got a few great shots, the quality is so fantastic. The shots that turned out crumby were indoor shots that I didn't use any support to shoot in low light. I had a slow film also, so that was totally my fault. The ones that I did right look great though. I might post a few, but I am embarrassed since there are such great photographers here. I think I will be getting the hang of it in the coming rolls.

I noticed though that there sometimes seems to be more in the shot than I intended. When the 50mm framelines are showing, is what is shot contained within those boundaries?

I just put in a roll of Tri-X 400. I wish my first roll had turned out, it was black and white too. It is nice to see that my lens (Heliar classic 50mm f/2) works so great in colors too though.

One last question. Once I get used to this lens, and save some money, I have basically decided upon the 28mm Ultron. I am wondering though about whether to get the 28mm bright line finder, or perhaps the 28mm/35mm mini one. Does the mini one work well? I'd like to perhaps get a 35mm in the far future and having two in one would be a better deal and time saver.

Thanks guys,
Cody

next summer, I may have enought money to afford in a R3 or R2, can you tell me a bit about the feeling of the 1/1 viewfinder ? Is it large enought o see outside the 50 mm frame ? ( I wear glasses )

 

[ClaremontPhoto]

next summer, I may have enought money to afford in a R3 or R2, can you tell me a bit about the feeling of the 1/1 viewfinder ? Is it large enought o see outside the 50 mm frame ? ( I wear glasses )

On an R3 (with 40mm lens) you can use right eye through the viewfinder to get the focus right, and then both eyes open. The left eye, not through the viewfinder, sees everything in a very natural way as you make photos.

 

[le vrai rdu]

On an R3 (with 40mm lens) you can use right eye through the viewfinder to get the focus right, and then both eyes open. The left eye, not through the viewfinder, sees everything in a very natural way as you make photos.

lovely 🙂 I am looking (If I earn enought money ) to buy a 40 mm nokton and a 75 mm heliar 🙂 with a R3 (or R2)

 

[oscroft]

lovely I am looking (If I earn enought money ) to buy a 40 mm nokton and a 75 mm heliar with a R3 (or R2)

I think the R3 cameras are pretty much designed for use with that kind of lens combination - I couldn't think of a better body to go with them.

In fact, I'd love an R3A to use with my Summicron-C 40 and CV 75 if I can afford one some time - I haven't used one for shooting, but I have had the chance to look through an R3A 1:1 viewfinder and I liked it a lot. (I don't wear glasses though).

 

[pevelg]

One problem with the R3M though... When I had one, I could not see the entire 40mm frame lines due to my glasses. Just a word of warning. Otherwise, the 1:1 factor is very nice. With practice I got pretty good at estimating what was within the frame lines, even if I couldn't see it. Also, the R3M has a longer EBL, so this is important when shooting wide open and with long mm lenses. It was entirely for that reason that I bought the R3M (and price)

 

[le vrai rdu]

thank you friends for the advices 🙂