Neopan 1600 - Rodinal

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Larky

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Hi all.

I have some Neopan 1600 exposed at 1600 I need to develop sharpish. the only dev I have here is Rodinal, and I can only really keep water at 20 degrees. I've read about six different times for 20 degrees at 1+25, about three different times for 1+50. Can anyone who has used Neopan 1600 in Rodinal recently let me know what times they used, and how it went?

Or, shall I trust the massive dev chart?

Ta, A.
 
I wouldn't have thought it's really an ideal film/dev combo, but I'd be tempted to go 1+100 stand developed for 2 hours (or maybe semi-stand for 60 minutes it you can't wait that long). Either way it'd even out any development errors and should allow for a low-grain negative with great tonality, as well as particularly decent shadow detail.
 
Hello Larky,
Neopan and Rodinal is a beautiful combination!
In my opinion, 1600ASA is pushing it a bit, 800 or even 400 is giving beautiful results. With 1600ASA i wouldn`t dilute further than 1:50.
Giving exact times is difficult, because of the different qualities of water, agitation and desired density. In my experience, i would rate the massive dev chart a bit shortish and lengthen the time for 1:50 to about 11-12 min. with one inversion per minute.
Hope this is helpful and good luck,
andreas
 
Cheers, about to kick the girlfriend out of the shower and get going! I'll let you know how it all works out.

Think when I go to London in 2 weeks I'll buy a range of different dev solutions. 🙂
 
OK, I'm happy to try that. Just to confirm, I mix the 1=100 dev, stick it in a 20 degree C bath, pour in the dev and leave it alone with NO agitation at all, ever, for 2 hours?

Or do I agitate for the first 30 secs, or 5 secs for a few mins or something?

Then after the 2 hours (lazy developing - I love it!) I stop, fix and rinse as normal?

I'll go mix the dev now and get it to temp. My water is quite hard I believe, the kettle clogs every 5 minutes if that helps.
 
Gentle agitation, constantly for the first minute, give it a few good taps against a worksurface to dislodge any air bubbles, then leave it be for two hours. Then just give it a rinse in plain water, fix and wash as per usual.

I'll be interested to see the results 🙂
 
I have experimented with stand development on several occasions and I'm pretty sure I used rodinal 1:100 for about an hour for the best results. Only agitate for the first minute, just to get the developer going - then don't touch it.

Once I forgot my tank and the film was sitting in the soup for about 2 hours and still came out looking okay.

Most things that go wrong with development happen in the first few mins. anyways. Bromide drag can be an issue, but I've never experienced that with Neopan.
 
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It's in the soup...

Now it's in the wash cycle...

Now it's hanging up by the window to dry, and bugger me. These are the best negs I've ever made, they look stunning. Many thanks for all the advice, everything looks perfect. Does this method work for other film too, or just high speed? It takes longer yeah, but christ these look like a pro lab made them.

I'll scan when dry. Although I think this quality neg deserves a better scanner, so this is my excuse to buy one!

A.
 
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Alternative to Rodinal: R-09 (earlier version of Rodinal) ...

dilute 1:80 (same as rodinal 1:100), invert/tap 20 times in 30 sec, then abandon for an hour.

Oh, yeh, I'm talking about Neopan 400, rated 1600 with plenty of shadow detail 🙂
 
btw, go back to Andreas' post, above, and visit his websites: WOW. Beautiful photo series, fine music , even some polaroid-looking videos.
 
Larky, glad to hear things went well. Stand developing works with films of all speeds, but I'd stick to modern emultions. With old-school single-layer films (like the ADOX CHS series) you'd run the risk of the emultion over-swelling and being prone to damage – modern films are robust things though.

I use stand development with my Holga shots since it compensates for the totally random exposures with that cam.
 
I'll buy some and find out, I have a few more rolls of the Neopan to shoot. I think it's become my film of choice. I guess the Contax glass helped though!

I'll post some pics later, once they are scanned. Don't expect too much, I'm still learning. Need to get my framing better.
 
Glad to hear you are happy with the results, Larky. I have been reading about this stand development for long enough that I think I need to try it- especially since I love Rodinal for regular developing.

Just to clarify, what dilution and time did you use for your Neopan 1600? 1:100 for two hours, is that right? Thanks.
 
Hello.

http://www.ingenieursonline.co.uk/street/

Here they are, the negs have been scanned on my Primefilm 3600 which is 8 years old or something, and covered in dust. Nothing done to them, this is the straight scan.

I need to work on my framing, and get more brave in the street. Also, this was the first real trial of the G1 which I adore now. Please be harsh with crit if you give it, I'm not easily bruised and am craving good crit to help me improve. the kid is kind of supposed to be like that, shot from the hip and head removed so I don't get in more trouble for taking pics of children.

Yep, I mixed it 1:100 and sat it in the bath (with 2 inches (ish) of 20 degrees (ish - more like 23) water. First 30 seconds (counted in my head) was the swirly single handed and shake it like mad agitation technique, followed by some whacking against the bath. Then I left it for two hours, used an Ilford stop bath for a minute, then fixed it for 15. Then wash for 15 mins, finger squeegee and leave by the window to air dry.

My dev technique is a little haphazard. From now on though I'll do more standing dev and take more care. And I'm ordering 10 more rolls of this film, I just wish my scanner could do the negs justice.
 
drewbarb said:
Glad to hear you are happy with the results, Larky. I have been reading about this stand development for long enough that I think I need to try it- especially since I love Rodinal for regular developing.

Just to clarify, what dilution and time did you use for your Neopan 1600? 1:100 for two hours, is that right? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I use Rodinal 1:100 at 20C for 1 hour.
Agitate first 15 sec, then 15 sec after 30 min (to avoid bromide drag).
This is in Kinderman tank with Hewes reels. I had more problems with stand development in plastic tanks, btw.

This works for TriX and Neopan 400 at anything from 200 - 1600 and Arcos and APX100 at 100. That's all the film I use.


PS: I tried 2 hours but liked the 1 hour results better.
 
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