JoeFriday
Agent Provacateur
look at it this way... you can always wait to buy the Leica because they'll always be around.. maybe a year from now you can buy my M3 when I manage to scrounge up the funds for a used MP 🙂
Never should have held a Leica..
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hth
Well-known
Yes, the M2. I have one, payed less for it than the price of a new Bessa...
/Håkan
/Håkan
jdos2
Well-known
Do NOT, repeat NOT look at a Noctilux.
That takes lust to a whole new level.
Especially considering how well and comfortably it works on the M3...
That takes lust to a whole new level.
Especially considering how well and comfortably it works on the M3...
FrankS
Registered User
If you were able to feel the difference then it's probably too late. But, because of the tight budget of a student, I suggest that you buy a used R2/3a from someone who's selling theirs to get a Leica. 🙂
Will
Well-known
rover said:
😱 😱 😱
Need to fight this forum (M3, R-D1 etc) with a house mortgage...
Sonnar Brian
Established
My M2 and M3 both required CLA and the M2 required the rewind gearing to be repaired. Each cost the same as the R3a including the price of repair. However, repair cost has gone up $70 since last year.
hoot
green behind the ears
On one hand - life is short; you may be dead tomorrow. Get the M3 today.
On the other hand - use the R3a daily for a year, take stunning photos, and you'll feel a lot less guilty "upgrading" to the M3.
On the third hand (what am I, an octopus?) - a new R3a costs about as much as a battered-but-fully-functional M3... you make the choice.
On the other hand - use the R3a daily for a year, take stunning photos, and you'll feel a lot less guilty "upgrading" to the M3.
On the third hand (what am I, an octopus?) - a new R3a costs about as much as a battered-but-fully-functional M3... you make the choice.
richard_l
Well-known
That must take a tremendous amount of will power. The only reason I have a Leica is to use it.
The framelines issue is really not much of a deterrent to using 35mm lenses on the M3. However, it is a convenient excuse for also getting an M2. 😀
Richard
aizan
Veteran
it's very nice to have built-in metering and/or ae when you're taking pics. however, the m6 and m7 are obviously not on the same level as the m3 and m2, so i'd hold off on the later models. it's also much nicer to get an m3/m2 in minty condition instead of a user. don't skimp on that end. you want pure, uncut product. focus on putting a bessa to good use, and reward yourself later on.
egpj
50 Summilux is da DEVIL!
I suppose that while being a student you have some sort of part time job for the "wants". If that is the case you can try to get some over time if you can swing it. Even now the smoothness of that M3 is working in the back of your mind. The GAS attack for a new Leica is a powerful thing. I have succumbed many times to that siren's call. Not to mention all the accesories that I own. Using this thread as an excuse I calculated how much "GAS" has set me back in the past 3 years (including non-rangefinder gear). This brings my GAS attack to a grand total of 31,000 US. 895, drop in the bucket man. Jump on that before it gets away. Eat Chili-mac and bum your beer for a year. 😀
f/stopblues
photo loner
Ah, you guys are bad influences..
So lets just say I go and look at the M3 again.. Any tell-tale signs to look for that its in good working condition? I read something on here once about the sound of the shutter when under 1/15 or something like that. Anything else? This is *just* to check.. doesn't mean I'm convinced yet :bang:
So lets just say I go and look at the M3 again.. Any tell-tale signs to look for that its in good working condition? I read something on here once about the sound of the shutter when under 1/15 or something like that. Anything else? This is *just* to check.. doesn't mean I'm convinced yet :bang:
Sonnar Brian
Established
The slow-speed timer will run on a bit longer after the shutter has closed. That is normal.
The big thing to check is the Viewfinder for signs of separation/desilvering. Then shutter action, including capping at high-speed or shutter drag at low speed. Check the rewind gears, the advance. Best to put a dummy roll through it at the shop at a minimum, or get a 10 day return to put a live roll through. If it is in EX+ or better condition, and working well, you can always get $900 back out of it here or on EBay.
The big thing to check is the Viewfinder for signs of separation/desilvering. Then shutter action, including capping at high-speed or shutter drag at low speed. Check the rewind gears, the advance. Best to put a dummy roll through it at the shop at a minimum, or get a 10 day return to put a live roll through. If it is in EX+ or better condition, and working well, you can always get $900 back out of it here or on EBay.
egpj
50 Summilux is da DEVIL!
With Brian on all points. Make sure you check out that shutter really good. I have heard that you can spot holes in the first and secon curtains if they exist but I do not have that experience to say it is for sure. Does the camera store offer a student discount? How about camers club discounts? Worth a try. Good luck!
FrankS
Registered User
Go through all the shutter speeds, firing the camera near your ear. On one or 2 of the intermediate speeds around 1/30sec, you should hear what sounds like a tiny metal ball bouncing. This, appearantly is a good sign.
Look at and through the viewfinder from both directions and check especially the perimeter of the fviewfinder for signs of separation - something won't look right.
Check the shutter curtains, first and second for pin holes by holding the camera up to the light with the back open, and try to see the light through the curtains.
Advance film through the camera and feel for smoothness or roughness of the advance gears.
Can anyone think of anything else?
By all means ask for a discount. If you don't ask you will not get it, if you do ask you might get one.
See if you can use the camera to take a roll of film with it inside and just outside of the store, then get the film processed. Be sure to use the 1/1000sec speed top check for shutter capping - when the 2 curtains remain closed as they cross the film gate.
Look at and through the viewfinder from both directions and check especially the perimeter of the fviewfinder for signs of separation - something won't look right.
Check the shutter curtains, first and second for pin holes by holding the camera up to the light with the back open, and try to see the light through the curtains.
Advance film through the camera and feel for smoothness or roughness of the advance gears.
Can anyone think of anything else?
By all means ask for a discount. If you don't ask you will not get it, if you do ask you might get one.
See if you can use the camera to take a roll of film with it inside and just outside of the store, then get the film processed. Be sure to use the 1/1000sec speed top check for shutter capping - when the 2 curtains remain closed as they cross the film gate.
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dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
I've given up trying to "get" an M3 - mainly because I've become so accustomed to (i.e. spoiled) having auto exposure (basically aperture priority) on the R3A.
Therefore the M3 "just won't do" 😉
Currently on the hunt for an M7....
Dave
Therefore the M3 "just won't do" 😉
Currently on the hunt for an M7....
Dave
FrankS
Registered User
M7? Way too rich for my blood! I also don't think it will be as long-lasting as the classic Leicas. I have no proof or evidence for this, just a feeling. Just my distrust of electronics and modern-day build quality.
dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
FrankS said:
heh.. remember Frank.. me = single, no kids, next to no mortgage = disposable income 😉
That plus I've got a bad case of GAS
If I'm lucky, I can maybe, MAYBE get one for $2500 CDN used.
Dave
Sonnar Brian
Established
Isn't there a Movie out, "40 Year old Leica Virgin?"
Don't wait that long. Enjoy your youth.
Get the Leica. Trust your feelings. Get the M3.
You can buy a fixed-lens RF for auto-exposure. Most of them have it. And have money left over for the M2/M3 with some lenses.
If I wanted an M7, I'd probably sell off the Nikon M that I picked up for $30. No more Peanut Butter for me.
Married, with kid, mortgage, and LOTS of classic cameras bought over the last 30 years.
Don't wait that long. Enjoy your youth.
Get the Leica. Trust your feelings. Get the M3.
You can buy a fixed-lens RF for auto-exposure. Most of them have it. And have money left over for the M2/M3 with some lenses.
If I wanted an M7, I'd probably sell off the Nikon M that I picked up for $30. No more Peanut Butter for me.
Married, with kid, mortgage, and LOTS of classic cameras bought over the last 30 years.
hoot
green behind the ears
Well, to each his own... but I have to say that my photography took one giant leap when I began using a handheld incident meter. That was when I began actually seeing the light, which is, after all, what photography is all about.dcsang said:
FrankS
Registered User
Dave, I can understand now. Between wives I did buy a Nikon F4 and a Mamiya 6 when they first came out and they were each around $2500Cdn.
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