BzBrian
Member
Hey, so I'm basically a long time SLR user and only recently have I been drawn in by rangefinders, in specific, Leica.
I'm looking to purchase the Leica M2 with a Voigtlander 35mm f/1.4 and an ELMAR 50mm f/2.8.
1. Would you recommend another lens or body? (I'm a student so I am on a budget aka I can't afford new Leica lenses)
2. Do you recommend any other accessories that are important to a rangefinder owner? (Light-meter?)
I guess my question is vague but I'm just looking for your thoughts on this setup and any caveats in purchasing a Leica M2 or such lenses (since I don't want to throw down $1300 on something bad).
Thanks!
I'm looking to purchase the Leica M2 with a Voigtlander 35mm f/1.4 and an ELMAR 50mm f/2.8.
1. Would you recommend another lens or body? (I'm a student so I am on a budget aka I can't afford new Leica lenses)
2. Do you recommend any other accessories that are important to a rangefinder owner? (Light-meter?)
I guess my question is vague but I'm just looking for your thoughts on this setup and any caveats in purchasing a Leica M2 or such lenses (since I don't want to throw down $1300 on something bad).
Thanks!
rogerzilla
Well-known
One lens will make you a better photographer more quickly; so buying just the best 35 or 50 you can afford is an option to consider. If you must have two lenses, a 35 and a 90 would be more versatile than a 35 and a 50.
Yes, you're going to need a meter. Sekonic hand meters are good; I use mine in incident mode virtually all the time. If you feel the need for a Leicameter which mounts in the hot shoe, get the MR rather than the MC.
If you shoot black and white film then a deep yellow filter (loses 1 stop of light, so ISO 100 film becomes ISO 50 on your meter) should be used for outdoor shooting, especially if it's sunny.
Buy the M2 from a shop that offers a warranty of some kind, test all the speeds and check the viewfinder for any signs of prism separation around the edges. This is expensive and difficult to fix.
Yes, you're going to need a meter. Sekonic hand meters are good; I use mine in incident mode virtually all the time. If you feel the need for a Leicameter which mounts in the hot shoe, get the MR rather than the MC.
If you shoot black and white film then a deep yellow filter (loses 1 stop of light, so ISO 100 film becomes ISO 50 on your meter) should be used for outdoor shooting, especially if it's sunny.
Buy the M2 from a shop that offers a warranty of some kind, test all the speeds and check the viewfinder for any signs of prism separation around the edges. This is expensive and difficult to fix.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Great combination, though I agree with Rogerzilla that 35 and 50 are a bit close. Look out for a second hand meter, but until then, with neg film, guessing is fine as long as you err on the side of overexposure.
For advice on buying second-hand meters check http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/meter models.html and for guidance on guessing exposures look at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps basics expoguide.html
Cheers,
R.
For advice on buying second-hand meters check http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/meter models.html and for guidance on guessing exposures look at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps basics expoguide.html
Cheers,
R.
Last edited:
David Murphy
Veteran
That will make a good setup. I'm not sure you can get this for $1300, but perhaps. The Voigtlander 35mm F1.7 Ultron LTM is a little cheaper, a tad slower, but also a very, very good lens. The collapsible 5cm F2 Summitar LTM is a little cheaper, a bit faster, and just about as sharp as the Elmar. These are just my personal observations! I would recommend the Sekonic L28 or L398 incident light meters to a beginner - bullet proof for most work, but learn the "Sunny-16 rule" and standard compensation settings for backlit scenes by heart (have faith in them and have fun!).
Last edited:
David Hughes
David Hughes
Have you some outfit (being sold) in mind?
I'm asking as the f/1.4 and a standard f/2.8 seem an odd pair. Personally, I'd start with just the one lens and that could be the Elmar (right vintage for the M2 as well) or a Leica 35mm and then add the 90mm. If starting with the 35mm then I'd be looking for a Leitz made f/2 to match the body and then, perhaps, the Tele-Elmarit 90mm.
My reason being that Leicas can be addictive and you might end up with a collection, in that case go for the correct vintage outfit.
On the other hand, if you are looking for a user, then do whatever you fancy and remember that a couple of not-so-fast lenses like the 35 and 90 will make a good, usable outfit. Leica often recommended that in their catalogues as "a versatile outfit at lowest cost" and that was from the M6 catalogue. Proof that they tried to cater for everyone...
Regardless of what the seller may tell you, remember that a Leica M2 might be approaching its 60th birthday and a little repair work or an adjustment or two might be needed or essential.
Regards, David
I'm asking as the f/1.4 and a standard f/2.8 seem an odd pair. Personally, I'd start with just the one lens and that could be the Elmar (right vintage for the M2 as well) or a Leica 35mm and then add the 90mm. If starting with the 35mm then I'd be looking for a Leitz made f/2 to match the body and then, perhaps, the Tele-Elmarit 90mm.
My reason being that Leicas can be addictive and you might end up with a collection, in that case go for the correct vintage outfit.
On the other hand, if you are looking for a user, then do whatever you fancy and remember that a couple of not-so-fast lenses like the 35 and 90 will make a good, usable outfit. Leica often recommended that in their catalogues as "a versatile outfit at lowest cost" and that was from the M6 catalogue. Proof that they tried to cater for everyone...
Regardless of what the seller may tell you, remember that a Leica M2 might be approaching its 60th birthday and a little repair work or an adjustment or two might be needed or essential.
Regards, David
maddoc
... likes film again.
From my experience (3x M2, 3x M3, 2x M4, 3x M4-P, 1x M4-2, 1x M5, 2x M6, 1x M6 TTL, 1x M7, 1x MP) I would recommend a more recent M Leica (M4-2 or M4-P) if you don`t absolutely *want* the feeling / handling / optics of the older models. M2/ M3 are getting old (very old) and I have not seen any M Leica of this vintage that was not in need for a repair (not talking about "CLA" but repairing a defect). A repair sets you back easily US$ 300 ~ 400 depending on the parts needed and then the "bargain" M2 might becoame a more expensive camera than expected.
At least, I would buy an older camera only with the possibility of returning it.
A CV 35/1.7 LTM would be indeed a good choice and I would prefer it everyday over the CV 35/1.4. That lens + M4-2 (or M4-P) should be available for US$1300.
At least, I would buy an older camera only with the possibility of returning it.
A CV 35/1.7 LTM would be indeed a good choice and I would prefer it everyday over the CV 35/1.4. That lens + M4-2 (or M4-P) should be available for US$1300.
BzBrian
Member
Great responses, thanks!
What's a good price for a Leica M2 that's in good aesthetic and mechanical shape?
Also, would you recommend getting a Elmar 50mm f/2.8 or a 1956-1968 Leica Summicron 50mm f/2?
What's a good price for a Leica M2 that's in good aesthetic and mechanical shape?
Also, would you recommend getting a Elmar 50mm f/2.8 or a 1956-1968 Leica Summicron 50mm f/2?
Last edited:
secksthoi
Established
I'm in the exact same boat as you. I just bought a great M2. From the looks of it I doubt it needs any repair, rather just a CLA. So there's definitely hope in getting the camera you want that works.
I too am a student with a shallow budget so I'm looking into Zeiss glass and from looking at Flickr samples, it has that modern sharpness and 3D feel to the depth.. I should be buying it sometime soon and sending in my M2 to Youxin Ye. Good luck on your search.
I too am a student with a shallow budget so I'm looking into Zeiss glass and from looking at Flickr samples, it has that modern sharpness and 3D feel to the depth.. I should be buying it sometime soon and sending in my M2 to Youxin Ye. Good luck on your search.
Colin Corneau
Colin Corneau
One more voice added to the group saying pick one lens...I think a 35mm is the most versatile. I know if I had to pick only one lens for the rest of my life, it'd be that one.
Consider a Zeiss or at least an older Leica lens, too. M2s, M3s or one of the M4s are a great choice as well, if that is feasible financially. One never knows, I found my M6 for a grand!
Consider a Zeiss or at least an older Leica lens, too. M2s, M3s or one of the M4s are a great choice as well, if that is feasible financially. One never knows, I found my M6 for a grand!
keytarjunkie
no longer addicted
Dang there's a bunch of us!
I am also a student and had a M2 with a 35/1.4 for a while. I would totally recommend it. I really only sold it because I have access to so many great materials that shooting 35mm would be a detriment (I'm doing mostly 6x7 and 4x5 C41 right now), I'm sure when I'm out of college and lose access to my jobos and imacon I will go back to shooting 35mm.
Youxin is a great guy, I would recommend him for any CLA needs
LeicaFan
Well-known
You may think that by buying an M2, you're getting a great deal for a Leica, but like others have said, be prepared to pay for a proper CLA. You might be better off with a newer body, unless you are set on an older one.
When I first started looking into a Leica for myself, I was set on an M3 (still want one). My plan was to restore one to it's original condition, but after doing some calculations, the CLA and restoring would have cost more than the camera itself. I ended up just buying an MP.
As far as lenses go, again, like others have said, invest your money into one nice lens. Zeiss makes some excellent lenses for very reasonable prices. I I have a ZM 35/2 Biogon and it is a wonderful lens - no complaints!
When I first started looking into a Leica for myself, I was set on an M3 (still want one). My plan was to restore one to it's original condition, but after doing some calculations, the CLA and restoring would have cost more than the camera itself. I ended up just buying an MP.
As far as lenses go, again, like others have said, invest your money into one nice lens. Zeiss makes some excellent lenses for very reasonable prices. I I have a ZM 35/2 Biogon and it is a wonderful lens - no complaints!
colyn
ישו משיח
M's have gone up in price so expect to pay more than you may have to invest..
You can also check out KEH http://www.keh.com/
I would be careful of eBay since what you get may need a CLA..
BzBrian
Member
Alright, so would you guys recommend getting something like a Leica M6 or M6 TTL over the M2? Besides metering, what's the benefit of getting something newer like a M6? And how about the M6 vs the M6 TTL?
Also, I found a M2 for $850 but was just CLA'd - is that a good deal?
Also, I found a M2 for $850 but was just CLA'd - is that a good deal?
rogerzilla
Well-known
M2 for $850 is a reasonable price if it's in good cosmetic condition. Don't buy on eBay at the moment because prices are higher than at dealers; this wasn't always the case, but apparently the Chinese nouveau-riche are buying everything up and eBay is easy for them to access whereas a local shop in Boondock, Arizona isn't.
Between the Elmar and the Summicron; both have very high image quality but it will be harder to find a Summicron in such good condition (the Elmar is still being made, although it's not quite the same as the 50s lens). The first generation collapsible 'cron is cheaper but almost impossible to find without ruined coatings and a scratched front element, and its bokeh is nasty. The second generation (rigid or with near-focusing range, often called "DR") is a much better bet although the bokeh, while reasonably nice, isn't as good as the Elmar's. It is usable at f/2 but noticeably softer. Flare resistance is very good on either the Elmar or the 2nd generation 'cron.
Don't rule out the screwmount lenses; some of them are a bit cheaper but just as good. The later coated Elmar 50/3.5 has brilliant IQ in a tiny package and if you're ever offered a Summar 50/2 for peanuts and it doesn't seem scratched, take it. It flares into the light because it's uncoated but, in overcast conditions, it has jaw-dropping IQ.
Between the Elmar and the Summicron; both have very high image quality but it will be harder to find a Summicron in such good condition (the Elmar is still being made, although it's not quite the same as the 50s lens). The first generation collapsible 'cron is cheaper but almost impossible to find without ruined coatings and a scratched front element, and its bokeh is nasty. The second generation (rigid or with near-focusing range, often called "DR") is a much better bet although the bokeh, while reasonably nice, isn't as good as the Elmar's. It is usable at f/2 but noticeably softer. Flare resistance is very good on either the Elmar or the 2nd generation 'cron.
Don't rule out the screwmount lenses; some of them are a bit cheaper but just as good. The later coated Elmar 50/3.5 has brilliant IQ in a tiny package and if you're ever offered a Summar 50/2 for peanuts and it doesn't seem scratched, take it. It flares into the light because it's uncoated but, in overcast conditions, it has jaw-dropping IQ.