New Xtol not the same

You guys are gonna have to wait a few days. I did something different with my agitation and I mixed 1:1 developing 3200, its came out a little thin but I'm pretty sure its my fault. Ill develop tmax 400 in stock next time, then Ill know.
 
Kodak just got back to me. Peops to them for taking care of it.

"Hi,

Thanks for reaching out to us and bringing this issue to our attention. Regarding our XTOL developer that you have we'll certainly get this taken care of for you.

Given the circumstances, we're going to go ahead and get this item replaced for you with new product. For this, we'll just need some information from you. At your convenience, please reply to my email with the following:

* Phone Number:
* Preferred Email Address:
* Your Shipping Address (for replacement):
* Quantity of XTOL for Replacement

Regarding the current XTOL product you have in your care, please feel free to dispose of it as there is no need to return this to us at Kodak Alaris.

We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused you and that our product did not meet expectations. Rest assured that your replacement product will meet all appropriate criteria.

Thanks, and I'll keep an eye out for your response and please don't hesitate to keep in touch if you have any further questions."
 
Kodak just got back to me. Peops to them for taking care of it.

"[snip] Rest assured that your replacement product will meet all appropriate criteria."

If the product is being made by the same producer that makes the Legacy developers for Freestyle, I really do not understand why Kodak did not use the same packaging. The EcoPro developer is functionally identical to Xtol, as, pretty much, is any developer that uses ascorbate, dimezone-s or phenidone, and operates in the pH 8.0-8.5 range. I have tried, and mixed up, dozens of them.

The late John Black formulated an ascorbate-phenidone developer using a commercially available pH 8.5 tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (Tris) buffer as the alkali. Tris, theoretically, should complex irreversibly with silver salts. But obviously the emulsion is protected from the tris, because it works fine, no different to Xtol, once you adjust the dilution, pH and sulphite concentration the same as your chosen Xtol approach. Sometimes practice is better than theory.

Marty
 
When I was young, back in the 90s, Kodak dry chemicals came in thick paper pouches lined with foil. Never got a bad one. The later thin plastic bags they package stuff in now are simply not up to the job.

You are just a new babe. When I started around 1960
dry chems like D76 , Microdot X, Dektol came in cans.

I inherited a few cans two years ago and made up Dektol for prints. I figured nothing lost . pure white powder, no clumping and it it worked perfectly.
That batch was 50 years old.

Dupont had A & B cans for Varilour paper.

Rodinal came in a glass bottle with rubber seal you punctured with hypodermic syringe.

Time moves on and everything goes to lower cheaper quality.
 
I'm going to dump my XTOL (after ruining 3 rolls of film) and try the LMAX. I see it comes in a 1 gallon container (to make 5 gallons). Can you use just 1 quart of it to make a gallon and cap the rest to use later or do you have to mix all of it at once?
 
I'm going to dump my XTOL (after ruining 3 rolls of film) and try the LMAX. I see it comes in a 1 gallon container (to make 5 gallons). Can you use just 1 quart of it to make a gallon and cap the rest to use later or do you have to mix all of it at once?
Lmax is Freestyle's version of Tmax Developer. You do not have to mix it all at once. I just make enough for each developing session.
 
Lmax is Freestyle's version of Tmax Developer. You do not have to mix it all at once. I just make enough for each developing session.

Yes, what Chris said - and unless you are push processing you can use it at 1+7 instead of 1+4, and the negatives generally look and print/scan better.

When you are setting up to develop, get everything ready, mix the volume you need at the concentration you need, load the reels, and off you go. Don’t dilute any more than you will use right away.

Marty
 
Yes, what Chris said - and unless you are push processing you can use it at 1+7 instead of 1+4, and the negatives generally look and print/scan better.

When you are setting up to develop, get everything ready, mix the volume you need at the concentration you need, load the reels, and off you go. Don’t dilute any more than you will use right away.

Marty

I agree with Marty on dilution. I usually use Tmax Developer (or Lmax) at 1+7, except with Tmax 3200 or Delta 3200. For those films I use the normal 1+4 dilution.

I have times I have tested for Tmax Developer at the 1+7 developer for several films on my website. For other films, you can find a good starting point time for the 1+7 dilution by taking the developing time the manufacturer recommends for the 1+4 dilution and multiplying it by 1.5.

So, if the developing time at the 1+4 dilution is 6 minutes, you would do 6 x 1.5 = 9 to find the 1+7 developing time.
 
Kodak just got back to me. Peops to them for taking care of it.

"Hi,

Thanks for reaching out to us and bringing this issue to our attention. Regarding our XTOL developer that you have we'll certainly get this taken care of for you.

Given the circumstances, we're going to go ahead and get this item replaced for you with new product. For this, we'll just need some information from you. At your convenience, please reply to my email with the following:

* Phone Number:
* Preferred Email Address:
* Your Shipping Address (for replacement):
* Quantity of XTOL for Replacement

Regarding the current XTOL product you have in your care, please feel free to dispose of it as there is no need to return this to us at Kodak Alaris.

We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused you and that our product did not meet expectations. Rest assured that your replacement product will meet all appropriate criteria.

Thanks, and I'll keep an eye out for your response and please don't hesitate to keep in touch if you have any further questions."


So what is the contact address / email ?
 
I’ve had bad dry chemicals from Ilford. Microphen that was yellow and sticky. At least three or for times. Xtol and Microphen were both made by Tetenal.
I’ve contacted Ilford a few times about this and other problems and never got a reply from them. I’ve since moved on and use Tri-X now.
 
Kodak just got back to me. Peops to them for taking care of it.

"Hi,

Thanks for reaching out to us and bringing this issue to our attention. Regarding our XTOL developer that you have we'll certainly get this taken care of for you.

Given the circumstances, we're going to go ahead and get this item replaced for you with new product. For this, we'll just need some information from you. At your convenience, please reply to my email with the following:

* Phone Number:
* Preferred Email Address:
* Your Shipping Address (for replacement):
* Quantity of XTOL for Replacement

Regarding the current XTOL product you have in your care, please feel free to dispose of it as there is no need to return this to us at Kodak Alaris.

We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused you and that our product did not meet expectations. Rest assured that your replacement product will meet all appropriate criteria.

Thanks, and I'll keep an eye out for your response and please don't hesitate to keep in touch if you have any further questions."

I heard from a retailer today that the problem might have been poor quality adhesive holding bag A to bag B, leading to loose chemistry bags that are easy to mix up. Some customers have apparently been accidentally mixing two bags of Part A or two bags of Part B. Perhaps they have even received two Part A bags from the supplier? If you still have your chemistry bags it's worth a check before mixing.

I received Xtol today from the problem date (properly taped, A and B) and will test it when I'm out of my current batch.
 
I heard from a retailer today that the problem might have been poor quality adhesive holding bag A to bag B, leading to loose chemistry bags that are easy to mix up. Some customers have apparently been accidentally mixing two bags of Part A or two bags of Part B. Perhaps they have even received two Part A bags from the supplier? If you still have your chemistry bags it's worth a check before mixing.

I received Xtol today from the problem date (properly taped, A and B) and will test it when I'm out of my current batch.

My bags say A and B, I saved them and just looked. One thing I did notice from the old style was they were taped together really well. There was no way for A and B to come unattached.

Im still waiting for the replacement from Kodak. They said it was in the mail a few days ago. As soon as it comes in Im going to develop.
 
Just got the package in from Kodak. The package are the same but the A and B are in a bigger white plastic pouch now. Both A and B feel like fine powder. Not like before where the A side was super think.

I worked like 12 hours today so Im not developing. Most likely on Fri or this weekend. As soon as I develop ill let you guys know how its goes. But from feeling the bag Id say it should be fine.
 
Just got the package in from Kodak. The package are the same but the A and B are in a bigger white plastic pouch now. Both A and B feel like fine powder. Not like before where the A side was super think.

I worked like 12 hours today so Im not developing. Most likely on Fri or this weekend. As soon as I develop ill let you guys know how its goes. But from feeling the bag Id say it should be fine.


This seems to be the same type that I purchased recently, does it say "Made in Germany" on the outer bag?
 
This seems to be the same type that I purchased recently, does it say "Made in Germany" on the outer bag?

Yes.

Just mixed everything and it all seems normal now. The powder is fine as it should be not all clumped together.

Going to develop now. Ill let you know how it comes out, although Im developing an old roll out of tri x out of a thrift store camera and the other roll is delta 3200 shot at 800. So its not really going to be a good measure, but I'm sure it should be fine.
 
Tri x came out fine.

Delta 3200 at 800 has the wrong time recommended for it. I have no idea why is says 6 min. Its not even randomly close. It really gotta be somewhere around 7:30. This is the 2nd roll I've shot and developed like this and its way thin. Even the number on the side are really underdeveloped. Thanks Ilford.
 
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