Nikon 50mm f1.2 Ai-s ~ 50 f1.4 Ai-s

[Ricoh]

Just curious if any more experience...I'm tempted by this lens...

I’m waiting for the K3 screen to be delivered. (On back-order with f/c 29/9/20.)
As mentioned in this thread: with the standard screen fitted to the FM2 it’s not possible to adjust for critical focus; I’m not able to differentiate between focus at f2.8 and f1.2. When I have the new screen I hope the problems will be resolved.

 

[Ricoh]

K3 screen fitted to my FM2n, not sure I can tell the difference between f2.8, f2 and f1.2.
However, it’s brighter and I’m sort of thinking I can make out critical focus wide open. I’ve fired a few shots, and I’ll probably finish the roll mostly at full aperture.
I’ll post some examples when I’m done.

 

[valdas]

I have K3 in my FM3a and 50/1.2 is my standard lens and I have no focusing issues. But then I have to admit that I rarery shoot @1.2, normall I close the aperture a bit.

 

[Highway 61]

** Double post - keyboard issue - see below **

 

[Highway 61]

K3 screen fitted to my FM2n, not sure I can tell the difference between f2.8, f2 and f1.2.
However, it’s brighter and I’m sort of thinking I can make out critical focus wide open. I’ve fired a few shots, and I’ll probably finish the roll mostly at full aperture.
I’ll post some examples when I’m done.

To achieve critical focus with a fast lens you have to use a coarser, less bright focusing screen, with a well visible Fresnel pattern. Starting from a K2 screen your steps should have driven you to the B, E, K screens designed for the Nikon FE. Not the brighter #3 screens designed for the FM3A. There are still some Nikon FE screens for sale here and there. The B and E screens without the disturbing split image and its microprisms collar would be a better choice for critical focusing at any point of the frame.

With a Nikon FE screen the FM2 meter works perfect if you set the ASA at 1/3 up (i.e. @64 with a 50 ISO film, @125 with a 100 ISO film, @520 with a 400 ISO film etc). You have to correct the ASA settings the reverse way with the K3 screen, too.

 

[Ricoh]

To achieve critical focus with a fast lens you have to use a coarser, less bright focusing screen, with a well visible Fresnel pattern. Starting from a K2 screen your steps should have driven you to the B, E, K screens designed for the Nikon FE. Not the brighter #3 screens designed for the FM3A. There are still some Nikon FE screens for sale here and there. The B and E screens without the disturbing split image and its microprisms collar would be a better choice for critical focusing at any point of the frame.

With a Nikon FE screen the FM2 meter works perfect if you set the ASA at 1/3 up (i.e. @64 with a 50 ISO film, @125 with a 100 ISO film, @520 with a 400 ISO film etc). You have to correct the ASA settings the reverse way with the K3 screen, too.

Thanks Highway 61, actually it was the contributions to the thread in posts #34 and #36 that led me to the K3 screen, and having made the purchase I’ll see how I get on before trying another.

 

[Highway 61]

Thanks Highway 61, actually it was the contributions to the thread in posts #34 and #36 that led me to the K3 screen, and having made the purchase I’ll see how I get on before trying another.

With a bright screen and a very fast lens, everything tends to look to be in focus even when it is not, and sometimes, from far. This is why "old school" screens with a very visible Fresnel pattern still rule. This is also why manual focusing with DSLRs, fitted with ultra bright screens, can be a problem even with f/2 or f/2.8 lenses.
Used screens designed for the Nikon FE can be bought for dirt cheap off the big auction site (hush hush, Mr Bezos won't know it).

 

[Ricoh]

With a bright screen and a very fast lens, everything tends to look to be in focus even when it is not, and sometimes, from far. This is why "old school" screens with a very visible Fresnel pattern still rule. This is also why manual focusing with DSLRs, fitted with ultra bright screens, can be a problem even with f/2 or f/2.8 lenses.
Used screens designed for the Nikon FE can be bought for dirt cheap off the big auction site (hush hush, Mr Bezos won't know it).

Thanks, I’ll have a look before Jeff gets there first.

 

[Ricoh]

To achieve critical focus with a fast lens you have to use a coarser, less bright focusing screen, with a well visible Fresnel pattern. Starting from a K2 screen your steps should have driven you to the B, E, K screens designed for the Nikon FE. Not the brighter #3 screens designed for the FM3A. There are still some Nikon FE screens for sale here and there. The B and E screens without the disturbing split image and its microprisms collar would be a better choice for critical focusing at any point of the frame.

With a Nikon FE screen the FM2 meter works perfect if you set the ASA at 1/3 up (i.e. @64 with a 50 ISO film, @125 with a 100 ISO film, @520 with a 400 ISO film etc). You have to correct the ASA settings the reverse way with the K3 screen, too.

I’ve just bagged an FM100 (cheap as chips and it doesn’t look as though it’s been used; pristine is the word) that comes with a B screen, B for bright. First thoughts: I think it’s easier to differentiate critical focus with the K3 fitted to my FM2n than it is with the B on the F100.

 

[Costo Kim]

I was thinking about 1.2/50 once and compared it to my S.C. 1.4/50
I did not found so much of a difference wide open between them: sharpness/contrast look +- same to me and stopped down I already regarded S.C. as 'hell yeah of a lens' (at f/2.8 it can compete with any modern lens in my opinion)
also S.C. 1.4/50 is very flare resistant - it easily beats my contax planar 1.4/50
(can't provide examples right now - flickr is down)

 

[shimokita]

a few photos from last week... Nagano Prefecture
Nikon F3P w/ AI-S 50mm f/1.2 and Ilford FP4 Plus (ISO 125)

.

 

[GarageBoy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlIbafO-Yyw here's a comparison with the 1.4G