rbsinto
Well-known
I've got three S3s. Two are originals, one the aforementioned beater, and the other a nice example in chrome. I also have a re-issued black S3 which I bought from a RFF member.
Optically, the nice chrome one and the re-issued one have slightly stronger rangefinder patches than the beater.
But in all other respects, the three handle the same.
Optically, the nice chrome one and the re-issued one have slightly stronger rangefinder patches than the beater.
But in all other respects, the three handle the same.
thompsonks
Well-known
"if you're more into the 35 mm focal length ... and prefer an uncluttered viewfinder (yellowish cast) go for the S3 it's perfect for 35 imo"
True if and only if you don't wear glasses. If you do, the 50mm lines are all you can readily see. For 35 you'd have to wiggle your eye in all 4 directions to catch a glimpse of the framelines.
True if and only if you don't wear glasses. If you do, the 50mm lines are all you can readily see. For 35 you'd have to wiggle your eye in all 4 directions to catch a glimpse of the framelines.
Highway 61
Revisited
Oh well.
The point is simple : when you invest some money in something vintage and having some historical (dare I say, sentimental) value, you rather prefer getting something nice for P (P being the Price) than wasting P x 0.6~0.7 in a beaten-up camera, especially if $1000<=P>=$1000.
Promptly dropping $600 on an heavily beaten-up S3 might sound odd, while paying $1000 for an excellent plus/mint minus piece of gear might sound sensible.
Of course people having large purses can buy a beater as for an user and then a similar camera in collectible condition so that the latter stays on a shelf at home while the first one rattles in the bottom of the photo bag 24/24.
But not all people can do this, and for many of us, putting $1000 on something clean isn't any waste of money, while dropping $600 on something beaten-up is some. Got it ?
End of the basic [marketing/enjoyable purchase/reasonable purchase] lesson (I don't like doing that but you get me forced to, Robert).
As for the $1000 limit I spoke of above, it doesn't come out of the blue. If it had, the experienced seller of the extremely nice S3 kit I bought wouldn't have set its price at $999.99 (probably because the lens was an humble yet terrific 50/2 not a 50/1.4).
Lurk on the big auction site for a while, and make your mind about it. The prices scales are out there, not in Kensington Market shops...
I prefer not to answer your remarks re. "(dealing with)a spouse or family members who have no idea of the value of the disceased person's gear"...
Respectfully yours.
Bottom line : clean SP outfit here and nice S3 body there.
And interesting enough SP outfit here.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
This a S3 with the 35f2.5. Nice and small - lens is superb, as good as the Summicron 35 v1/2 and v3.
It takes some film to get used to the 35 "hunting" with the 35 frame - but I never considered rangefinder for precise framing - that what we have Nikon F's for. Once you get used to the S3 it works remarkably well as a quick frame/focus camera.
The SP is nice, but I mainly use those for the 28/85 combination. The S3's are better value - you can probably get a S3 with the 35f2.5 in good shape for what you would be paying for a heavily used SP. Best bet is to get in touch with someone living close to you who is a "Nikoholic" and try the two cameras.
Range-rover
Veteran
Thanks tom great looking camera, it's true the 35f2.5 is a great lens I don't even miss
my Leica 35f2 at all.
Range
my Leica 35f2 at all.
Range
Range-rover
Veteran
I hope this thread not over, I'm sure there's lot's to add!
Range
Range
Range-rover
Veteran
How about this, I was going to pick up off ebay a S3, but when I
called the store in Long Island to see if I could get a lower price and
ask a few more questions about it the saleperson hung up on me, so
that's, thats. Then I went on Adorama's web site, but will continue later
have to go to work.
Range
called the store in Long Island to see if I could get a lower price and
ask a few more questions about it the saleperson hung up on me, so
that's, thats. Then I went on Adorama's web site, but will continue later
have to go to work.
Range
maddoc
... likes film again.
It should not be difficult to get a nice S3-2000 these days. I saw a mint last week including Millennium Nikkor for ¥128000 and it doesn't sell.
Range-rover
Veteran
Okay so I said above after dealing with the snotty sales help way out in Long Island.
I went on the Adorama web site and they were selling a S3 with a 50mm lens, but
here's the rub it was $300.00 bucks!, it seems to have a few problems first the
rangefinder has low contrast, second the shutter is wrinkled and the advance lever
doesn't automatic return, a dog I'm sure but wait, my S2 wasn't perfect when I got
it the rangefinder was dark until I cleaned it and a few other problems, so I'm sure
I can get this bad boy up and running (No Fear) taking it apart to get it to tip top shape.
I'm sure I can get some parts from a Nikon F and put them in, now were is that web site
on interchangeable parts.
Range
I went on the Adorama web site and they were selling a S3 with a 50mm lens, but
here's the rub it was $300.00 bucks!, it seems to have a few problems first the
rangefinder has low contrast, second the shutter is wrinkled and the advance lever
doesn't automatic return, a dog I'm sure but wait, my S2 wasn't perfect when I got
it the rangefinder was dark until I cleaned it and a few other problems, so I'm sure
I can get this bad boy up and running (No Fear) taking it apart to get it to tip top shape.
I'm sure I can get some parts from a Nikon F and put them in, now were is that web site
on interchangeable parts.
Range
maitani
Well-known
selling my y2002 black re-edition body, if somebody interested check in the classifieds, would be cool to keep this one within RFF members...
Range-rover
Veteran
Well it's on it's way, we'll see how it is when I get it.
Range
Range
Range-rover
Veteran
Hi all,
Okay I just received the camera from Adorama and for $300.00
dollars it pretty nice, first thing is that the rangefinder is good, they
said it was dim but once I cleaned it up it's better, next was the advance
lever their right about that doesn't go back on it's own sometimes you
have to push it back, shutter speeds seem fine just that the shutter has
wrinkles in it not bad but there (cloth). there's wear where the straps
lugs are that's to be expected. Oh one thing that bothers me is inside
the lens mount there's the cam for the rangefinder that little wheel,
just like my S2 it doesn't turn when you focus after cleaning the S2
it works, but the S3 no go any ideas?
Range
Okay I just received the camera from Adorama and for $300.00
dollars it pretty nice, first thing is that the rangefinder is good, they
said it was dim but once I cleaned it up it's better, next was the advance
lever their right about that doesn't go back on it's own sometimes you
have to push it back, shutter speeds seem fine just that the shutter has
wrinkles in it not bad but there (cloth). there's wear where the straps
lugs are that's to be expected. Oh one thing that bothers me is inside
the lens mount there's the cam for the rangefinder that little wheel,
just like my S2 it doesn't turn when you focus after cleaning the S2
it works, but the S3 no go any ideas?
Range
Been a while since I worked on one, but regarding the advance lever, I seem to remember there was a spring, might want to see if it's present.
maddoc
... likes film again.
I had to repair mine also (S2). The spring had come of it`s center position and I had to completely pull it out and re-set, time consuming but now it works fine.
Range-rover
Veteran
Thanks guys for your info, but How do we get that little focusing
wheel to move again?
Range
wheel to move again?
Range
Range-rover
Veteran
Okay, this is not good The spring for the Counter open up, should I rewind it back
and go from there or other????
Range
and go from there or other????
Range
Highway 61
Revisited
You have to attach the proper end of the counter spring at the center of the verso of the counter disk (well in practice it always stays attached there so yours must be no exception), then quite tension the spring and maintain it well tensioned with your fingers, then fit the other tongue of the spring in the counter housing creek (sometimes the tongue has to be adjusted a bit with some pliers so that it doesn't jump out of the creek too easily), then fit the counter disk in place so that the frame number 30 (approx.) index is pointing towards the front of the camera, then secure the disk counter screw and you're done.
Then you remove the back of the camera and the counter automatically comes back to its starting position (three frames before zero).
Easy. The only caveat is not to get the screw threads worn-out or break the screw head, because it's a very special screw which allows the counter disk to rotate freely while tightened.
As for the "focusing wheel" : are you speaking of the rangefinder arm pullet located behind the lens mount in the camera chamber, or the focusing wheel located on top of the camera ?
If you speak of the pullet I'd try to put some dabs of penetrating oil there after having cleaned it with lighter fluid. There might be some grime or corrosion, so that it doesn't rotate freely enough when the lens mount flange rotates itself (i.e. when you focus).
If you speak of the actual "focusing wheel", well, then some opposite gears must be disconnected between the lens mount and that wheel. After you've removed the lens mount, rotating the focusing wheel must get the large burnished gear which you see under the camera front plate, at 10 o'clock, turn as well, and very freely.
Then you remove the back of the camera and the counter automatically comes back to its starting position (three frames before zero).
Easy. The only caveat is not to get the screw threads worn-out or break the screw head, because it's a very special screw which allows the counter disk to rotate freely while tightened.
As for the "focusing wheel" : are you speaking of the rangefinder arm pullet located behind the lens mount in the camera chamber, or the focusing wheel located on top of the camera ?
If you speak of the pullet I'd try to put some dabs of penetrating oil there after having cleaned it with lighter fluid. There might be some grime or corrosion, so that it doesn't rotate freely enough when the lens mount flange rotates itself (i.e. when you focus).
If you speak of the actual "focusing wheel", well, then some opposite gears must be disconnected between the lens mount and that wheel. After you've removed the lens mount, rotating the focusing wheel must get the large burnished gear which you see under the camera front plate, at 10 o'clock, turn as well, and very freely.
Range-rover
Veteran
Thanks Highway, I think I got it, seems to work better now.I think the main problem
with this is it was put back together wrong a long time ago by someone who didn't know
what they were doing but I have to get the lighter fluid and hit that pullet a few time
till it works.
Range
with this is it was put back together wrong a long time ago by someone who didn't know
what they were doing but I have to get the lighter fluid and hit that pullet a few time
till it works.
Range
