Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Today the short 70mm riser stem and the Love Levers, both from Psaul’s Componnts, should be delivered.
I still have to install the brake cables. Currently I have the blue anodized Paul Canti Levers installed just for mocking up, and the blue accent I think is cool looking, but the all black looks mighty evil.
Using my Cheapo digital luggage scale the bike weighs 19 pounds without a chain which I weighed separately at 3/4’ers of a pound. A sub 20 pound bike as a rigid, but I could eventually make it a sub 19 pound bike with a Ti bottom bracket, lighter pedals, lighter skewers, and a non boat anchor seat.
At AJ’s shop I saw how womens saddles are short and wide. I believe the more upright the position the wider the seat should be. Then there is a valley or canyon built into the center spine of the seat to allow space for the tenders.
There is 55 mm of spacers under the stem for a very upright position. I have about a quarter inch of spacer on top of the stem to adjust higher, and I have a set of thinner spacers to allow adjusting down also.
This new/old bike is kinda like a resto-mod: an old bike updated with boutique hardware and components. A kinda expensive bike, but then again one and done. Only cherry picked high end components, and having a brand new XTR 9-speed is mucho cool with a triple for an uncompromised wide range of gearing With mucho low gears and high enough top gear that exploits an 11 tooth.
Anyways this is no different than what I want to do with the 1966 C-10 longbed Fleetside. Pretty much replace the entire drivetrain with brand new: stroked 383 Chevy crate engine; 4 speed close ratio tranny with two overdrives; aluminum high capacity radiator; and a new rear axel with a Posi rear. Don’t forget 4 wheel disc brakes.
I figure about $20K, but this money I don’t have in the bank yet. Perhaps a modeling gig will fall from heaven… In the end I would have a mighty cool rat rod that effectively would be a new truck for under $30K.
The steering and suspension already is turnkey and all brand new. The suspension is NOS/OEM spec, but the original springs have organically sagged, especially the rear because of being loaded with a camper for decades. Effectively the rake is gone, and I might have to even lower the front suspension an inch if the added weight of the heavier engine does not load the front end enough.
The 383 crate motor is a 4-bolt 350 block with the crank of a 400 cubic engine with a longer stroke, built out as a HD truck engine. The tranny is rated for racing and 700 HP. Of course the rear axel would have to also be overbuilt, but I would build I truck that I really could not buy, or afford to buy.
I bought a 1966 truck that would be called a “survivor” because basically it still is OEM from the factory. The only mod so far is that the gas tank was moved from in the cab to the under the bed.
Anyways a real nice daydream lays ahead, but the money has to come from somewhere…
Anyways kinda like living a fantasy and reality is a daydream because of retirement. Delayed gratification at its best. My thinking and outlook is looking into the decades ahead. Basically long-long term. Also know that my C-10 resto-modded even as a rat-rod would sell for tens of thousands more than the $30K investment. Know that I paid less than $10K for my very clean C-10 with an eye catching faded patina.
Some people clear coat the patina, but for the mucho long-long term the best way to maintain the patina and prevent rust is to use a specialty wax once a year to protect the original finish. Lots of value in having OEM paint in remarkable condition.
Anyways it will be a mighty cool truck. The close ratio 4 speed means I can terrorize and have might quick acceleration around town, but with two overdrives I can do 75 MPH on the New York Throughway at a low RPM.
Cal
I still have to install the brake cables. Currently I have the blue anodized Paul Canti Levers installed just for mocking up, and the blue accent I think is cool looking, but the all black looks mighty evil.
Using my Cheapo digital luggage scale the bike weighs 19 pounds without a chain which I weighed separately at 3/4’ers of a pound. A sub 20 pound bike as a rigid, but I could eventually make it a sub 19 pound bike with a Ti bottom bracket, lighter pedals, lighter skewers, and a non boat anchor seat.
At AJ’s shop I saw how womens saddles are short and wide. I believe the more upright the position the wider the seat should be. Then there is a valley or canyon built into the center spine of the seat to allow space for the tenders.
There is 55 mm of spacers under the stem for a very upright position. I have about a quarter inch of spacer on top of the stem to adjust higher, and I have a set of thinner spacers to allow adjusting down also.
This new/old bike is kinda like a resto-mod: an old bike updated with boutique hardware and components. A kinda expensive bike, but then again one and done. Only cherry picked high end components, and having a brand new XTR 9-speed is mucho cool with a triple for an uncompromised wide range of gearing With mucho low gears and high enough top gear that exploits an 11 tooth.
Anyways this is no different than what I want to do with the 1966 C-10 longbed Fleetside. Pretty much replace the entire drivetrain with brand new: stroked 383 Chevy crate engine; 4 speed close ratio tranny with two overdrives; aluminum high capacity radiator; and a new rear axel with a Posi rear. Don’t forget 4 wheel disc brakes.
I figure about $20K, but this money I don’t have in the bank yet. Perhaps a modeling gig will fall from heaven… In the end I would have a mighty cool rat rod that effectively would be a new truck for under $30K.
The steering and suspension already is turnkey and all brand new. The suspension is NOS/OEM spec, but the original springs have organically sagged, especially the rear because of being loaded with a camper for decades. Effectively the rake is gone, and I might have to even lower the front suspension an inch if the added weight of the heavier engine does not load the front end enough.
The 383 crate motor is a 4-bolt 350 block with the crank of a 400 cubic engine with a longer stroke, built out as a HD truck engine. The tranny is rated for racing and 700 HP. Of course the rear axel would have to also be overbuilt, but I would build I truck that I really could not buy, or afford to buy.
I bought a 1966 truck that would be called a “survivor” because basically it still is OEM from the factory. The only mod so far is that the gas tank was moved from in the cab to the under the bed.
Anyways a real nice daydream lays ahead, but the money has to come from somewhere…
Anyways kinda like living a fantasy and reality is a daydream because of retirement. Delayed gratification at its best. My thinking and outlook is looking into the decades ahead. Basically long-long term. Also know that my C-10 resto-modded even as a rat-rod would sell for tens of thousands more than the $30K investment. Know that I paid less than $10K for my very clean C-10 with an eye catching faded patina.
Some people clear coat the patina, but for the mucho long-long term the best way to maintain the patina and prevent rust is to use a specialty wax once a year to protect the original finish. Lots of value in having OEM paint in remarkable condition.
Anyways it will be a mighty cool truck. The close ratio 4 speed means I can terrorize and have might quick acceleration around town, but with two overdrives I can do 75 MPH on the New York Throughway at a low RPM.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I will have to send a photo to Phil and he can post it.
I will also send Phil some pics of my other bikes and the C-10.
BTW you should know that the house is a work in progress and basically only the kitchen and powder room is done. Pretty much I live in an ongoing construction project. I’m cool with that. More to life than work, and I want a mucho low level of stress.
You can call me a lazy slacker, but I’m in no rush.
Cal
I will also send Phil some pics of my other bikes and the C-10.
BTW you should know that the house is a work in progress and basically only the kitchen and powder room is done. Pretty much I live in an ongoing construction project. I’m cool with that. More to life than work, and I want a mucho low level of stress.
You can call me a lazy slacker, but I’m in no rush.
Cal
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
So, the seller of the “new” bike has boxed it and has just been trying to find time in the schedule to get it to UPS.
Yesterday a “ridden once” Brooks Cambium C17 arrived and I swapped it with my ancient, beloved B17 which has lived on the Miyata for years. I rode in to work today and noticed that I need to slide the saddle forward about 5mm then it will be perfect. The weather was amazing until I got to the two mile straight of the Schuylkill, where a 15mph headwind had funneled down the valley. I felt I was running late so I pushed it all 11 miles and still got here under 48 minutes. I was realizing sucking air, could have been anything; lack of good sleep, not enough calories, heavy headwind, planetary alignment, blue super moon. I got here and my legs feel good, so I’m taking that as a win.
Anyway, once that “new” bike is on a truck heading east, I will come clean about its identity.
It currently has a 3-arm unlabeled Williams fluted crankset, so I don’t think I’ll be needing to swap it over to my prettier 50.4BCD Williams track crank, we’ll see. The current gearing is 48/17 and the rear hub is a Sturmey AW. My track hub currently holds a 13 tooth cog which is way too high unless I plan on velodrome-only riding (which I don’t). I’m not sure about what to gear this as but I’ll get it figured out. I found that I was cruising along really nicely this morning running 42/16 or 17, not sure where I was on my freewheel. That cog and the one next to it are kind of magic gear combos for me, in that they support my high cadence and still move me along at a good clip.
I got some new photos of the “new” bike and it has a chromed, lugged, Reynolds 531 stem with a wide upright bar. I’m going to swap to a drop bar but I have to wait to see what the clamp size is, and that wait is irritating me. I may have to order a bar from the UK if I cant find any with a 22.2 clamp size here in North America (if the stem is 22.2).
The new photos have also given me some forensic clues about the bike. It currently has 27x1-1/4 (AKA 630) steel rims, old Rigida Chrolux, laced to a chrome shell AW hub in the rear and a Normandy high flange in front. This combo suggests that the hubs may be original but the rims bear a later Rigida logo, so they are almost certainly not original. They are also large enough that there is no room for the original Bluemels or Britannia mudguards to fit between the tire and the brake brace, more evidence that this bike had replacement wheels built. When I receive it, I’ll be doing some measurements to see if a switch to 650B is feasible with respect to brake reach. It probably is because 100% of these frames were built to fit 26x1-1/4 (AKA 650, AKA S6, AKA 597) rims, and the difference is 7mm in brake track.
I really can’t wait to get this in the stand, then out on the road.
Phil
Yesterday a “ridden once” Brooks Cambium C17 arrived and I swapped it with my ancient, beloved B17 which has lived on the Miyata for years. I rode in to work today and noticed that I need to slide the saddle forward about 5mm then it will be perfect. The weather was amazing until I got to the two mile straight of the Schuylkill, where a 15mph headwind had funneled down the valley. I felt I was running late so I pushed it all 11 miles and still got here under 48 minutes. I was realizing sucking air, could have been anything; lack of good sleep, not enough calories, heavy headwind, planetary alignment, blue super moon. I got here and my legs feel good, so I’m taking that as a win.
Anyway, once that “new” bike is on a truck heading east, I will come clean about its identity.
It currently has a 3-arm unlabeled Williams fluted crankset, so I don’t think I’ll be needing to swap it over to my prettier 50.4BCD Williams track crank, we’ll see. The current gearing is 48/17 and the rear hub is a Sturmey AW. My track hub currently holds a 13 tooth cog which is way too high unless I plan on velodrome-only riding (which I don’t). I’m not sure about what to gear this as but I’ll get it figured out. I found that I was cruising along really nicely this morning running 42/16 or 17, not sure where I was on my freewheel. That cog and the one next to it are kind of magic gear combos for me, in that they support my high cadence and still move me along at a good clip.
I got some new photos of the “new” bike and it has a chromed, lugged, Reynolds 531 stem with a wide upright bar. I’m going to swap to a drop bar but I have to wait to see what the clamp size is, and that wait is irritating me. I may have to order a bar from the UK if I cant find any with a 22.2 clamp size here in North America (if the stem is 22.2).
The new photos have also given me some forensic clues about the bike. It currently has 27x1-1/4 (AKA 630) steel rims, old Rigida Chrolux, laced to a chrome shell AW hub in the rear and a Normandy high flange in front. This combo suggests that the hubs may be original but the rims bear a later Rigida logo, so they are almost certainly not original. They are also large enough that there is no room for the original Bluemels or Britannia mudguards to fit between the tire and the brake brace, more evidence that this bike had replacement wheels built. When I receive it, I’ll be doing some measurements to see if a switch to 650B is feasible with respect to brake reach. It probably is because 100% of these frames were built to fit 26x1-1/4 (AKA 650, AKA S6, AKA 597) rims, and the difference is 7mm in brake track.
I really can’t wait to get this in the stand, then out on the road.
Phil
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Phil,
Thanks for the bike-smut.
It seems like for touring, gravel, epic, and endurance riding some builders favor 650B.
Rene Herse is a source of fenders, but you already likely know that.
It does not take long to loose fitness, but also if you have a strong base it is easily recovered. I wish I could be like my friend Iron Mike and ride every day. I am sure he is a monster. Mike reported to me in a road season he logs 10K miles.
Cal
Thanks for the bike-smut.
It seems like for touring, gravel, epic, and endurance riding some builders favor 650B.
Rene Herse is a source of fenders, but you already likely know that.
It does not take long to loose fitness, but also if you have a strong base it is easily recovered. I wish I could be like my friend Iron Mike and ride every day. I am sure he is a monster. Mike reported to me in a road season he logs 10K miles.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
USPS looks to be delayed yet again. Delivery was expected yesterday, and today again is up in the air.
They suck.
Cal
They suck.
Cal
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
I have a persistent disdain for folks who artificially inflate the price of items which are rebadged products from another manufacturer. Rene Herse branding and Jan Heine’s work to create the aura of exclusivity for Panaracer tires and shiny components which seem to be beautiful faithful renderings of other marques, just grows tiresome for folks who want to ride and stuff to work. 650B conversions from 700C are mice because it allows a slightly larger tire with more cushion, while retaining the same overall diameter. That said, the whole RH notion that a bigger tire has leas rolling resistance than a smaller one is baloney. It’s less fatiguing, but no one can say that a larger contact patch is going to be more efficient than a smaller contact patch, if so the pros would all be riding balloon tires. That was marketing genius on the part of RH.
People can pay as much as they like, but a centerpull caliper is the going to get magically lighter or stronger than a Weinmann/DiaCompe unit. Polish up a set of DiaCompe NGC centerpulls and they are gorgeous, and just as strong as any other centerpull, second only to cantis/v brakes. I have forged NGC centerpulls on my Miyata and they are perfect. Awesome thing is that DiaCompe doesn’t have much cachet so I paid nothing for them, maybe $10 for both front and rear. Sugino has always made some of the best cranksets out there, including my beloved XC Pros and the first generation of White Industries. It’s all parts and when the rubber meets the road, they all do the same thing, some with a bit more sparkle than others, at a much higher cost. I’ll stick to Velo Orange fenders and if I really want to spend money, I’ll get some Honjos. The Bluemels and Britannias were made of celluloid and none have aged well. NOS ones can turn to flakes upon mounting them. Give me workman like aluminum or steel fenders without any sense of exclusivity. We have lots of very old, very high quality parts out there, we just need to use them, not tool up a production line based upon their looks, then charge people an organ to join the club.
Then again, people still buy brand new Leicas for more than the cost of a car, so what do I know? Folks gotta spend money I suppose.
People can pay as much as they like, but a centerpull caliper is the going to get magically lighter or stronger than a Weinmann/DiaCompe unit. Polish up a set of DiaCompe NGC centerpulls and they are gorgeous, and just as strong as any other centerpull, second only to cantis/v brakes. I have forged NGC centerpulls on my Miyata and they are perfect. Awesome thing is that DiaCompe doesn’t have much cachet so I paid nothing for them, maybe $10 for both front and rear. Sugino has always made some of the best cranksets out there, including my beloved XC Pros and the first generation of White Industries. It’s all parts and when the rubber meets the road, they all do the same thing, some with a bit more sparkle than others, at a much higher cost. I’ll stick to Velo Orange fenders and if I really want to spend money, I’ll get some Honjos. The Bluemels and Britannias were made of celluloid and none have aged well. NOS ones can turn to flakes upon mounting them. Give me workman like aluminum or steel fenders without any sense of exclusivity. We have lots of very old, very high quality parts out there, we just need to use them, not tool up a production line based upon their looks, then charge people an organ to join the club.
Then again, people still buy brand new Leicas for more than the cost of a car, so what do I know? Folks gotta spend money I suppose.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Phil,
Things have gotten ”bloated.” Another example are cars. Crazy prices when compared to historical portions of income, but I can blame this on government regulations to explain the added costs. Regulations cost money, the money has to come from somewhere, and in this case it is the consumer.
With bikes people use branding as perceived worth just like clothes in fashion. Pretty hard to swallow a carbon fiber bike when its life cycle is shorter than steel or titanium. This is coming from someone who cracked a titanium frame (cracked head tube weld on a Litespeed frame). What I worry about carbon fiber is the catastrophic failure when it happens.
The laws of physics implies it takes energy to accelerate a flywheel, and it also takes energy to maintain a speed. Light tires and wheels save a lot of energy and also allow higher elevated performance.
In this regard Rene Herse tires are light in weight and that is why I favor them. I pay the price for the performance. In my book money well spent. I’m talking eliminating rotating mass. Simple basic physics. I don’t care that they are made for RH by Panaracer.
I am able to convert old obsolete mountain bikes into really great gravel bikes that have their own advantages. Very cost effective, and kinda cool because of the new spin on retro/vintage.
RH promotes using low tire pressures, but there is a trade off called friction. Good for traction, but lowers rolling resistance. Skinny tires have less traction/friction on smooth surfaces.
RH says tire deflection from irregularities in the road/trail causes losses. This is believable to a point, but then there are diminished returns. Friction/traction is both friend and foe.
My new/old truck with a brand new heavy duty engine and drivetrain radiator to axel will run about $30K, and that includes the cost of the truck in the garage now. How crazy is it that I can buy new, not rebuilt, engine, tranny, radiator, and axel in a cost effective manner.
”Bloated” is a good word to define what is being offered and marketed today.
Cal
Things have gotten ”bloated.” Another example are cars. Crazy prices when compared to historical portions of income, but I can blame this on government regulations to explain the added costs. Regulations cost money, the money has to come from somewhere, and in this case it is the consumer.
With bikes people use branding as perceived worth just like clothes in fashion. Pretty hard to swallow a carbon fiber bike when its life cycle is shorter than steel or titanium. This is coming from someone who cracked a titanium frame (cracked head tube weld on a Litespeed frame). What I worry about carbon fiber is the catastrophic failure when it happens.
The laws of physics implies it takes energy to accelerate a flywheel, and it also takes energy to maintain a speed. Light tires and wheels save a lot of energy and also allow higher elevated performance.
In this regard Rene Herse tires are light in weight and that is why I favor them. I pay the price for the performance. In my book money well spent. I’m talking eliminating rotating mass. Simple basic physics. I don’t care that they are made for RH by Panaracer.
I am able to convert old obsolete mountain bikes into really great gravel bikes that have their own advantages. Very cost effective, and kinda cool because of the new spin on retro/vintage.
RH promotes using low tire pressures, but there is a trade off called friction. Good for traction, but lowers rolling resistance. Skinny tires have less traction/friction on smooth surfaces.
RH says tire deflection from irregularities in the road/trail causes losses. This is believable to a point, but then there are diminished returns. Friction/traction is both friend and foe.
My new/old truck with a brand new heavy duty engine and drivetrain radiator to axel will run about $30K, and that includes the cost of the truck in the garage now. How crazy is it that I can buy new, not rebuilt, engine, tranny, radiator, and axel in a cost effective manner.
”Bloated” is a good word to define what is being offered and marketed today.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
USPS did not deliver the short stem, nor the brake levers.
They suck for a second day in a row. Why have tracking if it is worthless?
BTW my UPS and other drivers say that things are slowing down. Just a heads up.
Cal
They suck for a second day in a row. Why have tracking if it is worthless?
BTW my UPS and other drivers say that things are slowing down. Just a heads up.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
USPS Has my parcels sitting in Mass. for two days.
Mucho lame.
Their tracking is also mucho lame.
Cal
Mucho lame.
Their tracking is also mucho lame.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
My stem and brake levers have been shuffled around Mass. for three days.
USPS is mucho lame. In other words they suck.
I will cut down the FatBar today. Yesterday I set up the brakes without the proper levers. Further tweaking will be required. Also will mount the chain and set up the drivetrain.
Making the most of the delays.
Cal
USPS is mucho lame. In other words they suck.
I will cut down the FatBar today. Yesterday I set up the brakes without the proper levers. Further tweaking will be required. Also will mount the chain and set up the drivetrain.
Making the most of the delays.
Cal
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
I pretty much agree with all of this. Personally, I favor steel bikes, although I did ride a Canondale as my daily commuter back in the 90's. I live in a college town and I am amazed at what the students casually throw away or abandon each year bike-wise. My wife put laid down a "no more rescues" law . . .
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Ben,
“Steel is real,” they say. Aluminum is light in weight, but it suffers eventually from fatigue and will crack. Like carbon fiber sudden unexpected failure.
Titanium has much of the feel of steel, but with quicker dampening.
I think Snarky Joe is right, I’m a bit stuck in the past, and perhaps I like old things.
To me “classic” means never being out of style.
My friend AJ has a 1955 Chevy pickup that is a show car. He also has a collection of vintage Porsches. He mentioned that the cars of the 30’s and 40’s are less popular and going down in value because people of the Greatest Generation are dying off, hence the dying popularity.
I don’t know or think that my 1966 Chevy C-10 Fleetside will become unpopular, and perhaps the same for my bikes. Historical and classic I believe will live on. How cool is it that I can build a truck rather than buy one, and it is cost feasible.
I figure that I will live out my life maybe never having the experience of buying a new car.
Snarky Joe is right it seems.
Cal
“Steel is real,” they say. Aluminum is light in weight, but it suffers eventually from fatigue and will crack. Like carbon fiber sudden unexpected failure.
Titanium has much of the feel of steel, but with quicker dampening.
I think Snarky Joe is right, I’m a bit stuck in the past, and perhaps I like old things.
To me “classic” means never being out of style.
My friend AJ has a 1955 Chevy pickup that is a show car. He also has a collection of vintage Porsches. He mentioned that the cars of the 30’s and 40’s are less popular and going down in value because people of the Greatest Generation are dying off, hence the dying popularity.
I don’t know or think that my 1966 Chevy C-10 Fleetside will become unpopular, and perhaps the same for my bikes. Historical and classic I believe will live on. How cool is it that I can build a truck rather than buy one, and it is cost feasible.
I figure that I will live out my life maybe never having the experience of buying a new car.
Snarky Joe is right it seems.
Cal
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
Question for you Cal. My wife liked her built-like-a-truck Chinese clunker from her time living in Bejing (seriously, the tubes were not even butted). Her right hand doesn't work for braking, so I was thinking of something like this for her:
Premium Nostalgic Dutch Women's Bicycle - Amsterdam Bicycle Company
Any other suggestions to buy or build a "postman's style" bike that is built more for comfort than for speed? I have been out of the market since I built up a Rivendell around ten years ago. Ken White-built wheels. It is like a camping tank, but not what my wife is looking for.
Premium Nostalgic Dutch Women's Bicycle - Amsterdam Bicycle Company
Any other suggestions to buy or build a "postman's style" bike that is built more for comfort than for speed? I have been out of the market since I built up a Rivendell around ten years ago. Ken White-built wheels. It is like a camping tank, but not what my wife is looking for.
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
I just look around Philly and see a few folks riding old nice bikes, and a lot more riding new junk. I say junk meaning junk, not a new carbon fiber bike from a big marque. The new junk is the continued production of low quality stuff that is either garbage from the get go, or has a very short mean time before failure. Ironically, a new junk steel bike will still outlive a new carbon bike, it just may not work as nice unless really kept up. All that said, even a new bike of whatever material is still a new bike and an industry based upon the newest thing. There has to be a "newest thing" or else folks will figure out that their old stuff still worked and they didn't need to pay a ton in order to consume the new shiny. Riding a bike as a means of commuter transport (when possible) is a great way to do a miniscule act towards extending the quality of life for humans, as well as most of the other life forms here. Riding a USED bike is even better because it was produced in the past and the resources used to make it have already been spent, the pollution from it is already in the air/water/soil/our livers/bones/lungs/hearts/guts. The new bike just increases reasons for companies to make more new "durable goods" and pollute more, fill landfills and the oceans more.
My comment on RH tires is that we already have Panaracer Gravel Kings of all sorts of treads, high thread count, folding beads, breaker layers for flat protection. Just as light and nimble as the RH tire but cheaper because they have the Japanese name, not the cachet of the rebranded RH name. That's just one tire manufacturer among many (it's also a beautiful irony that the mega-producer ChengShin has its fingers in the rubber of most tires on bicycles, regardless of who supposedly made them.) And RH now is not the RH of the past anyway. Schwinn is no longer Schwinn of Chicago, nor has it been for a very long time. Trek hasn't made regular production in Waterloo in a long time. Raleigh is just a name now that had a history before the marque was bankrupted then bought and rebranded. Lately, it's all just expensive stickers on products which are otherwise offered elsewhere for much cheaper.
Phil
My comment on RH tires is that we already have Panaracer Gravel Kings of all sorts of treads, high thread count, folding beads, breaker layers for flat protection. Just as light and nimble as the RH tire but cheaper because they have the Japanese name, not the cachet of the rebranded RH name. That's just one tire manufacturer among many (it's also a beautiful irony that the mega-producer ChengShin has its fingers in the rubber of most tires on bicycles, regardless of who supposedly made them.) And RH now is not the RH of the past anyway. Schwinn is no longer Schwinn of Chicago, nor has it been for a very long time. Trek hasn't made regular production in Waterloo in a long time. Raleigh is just a name now that had a history before the marque was bankrupted then bought and rebranded. Lately, it's all just expensive stickers on products which are otherwise offered elsewhere for much cheaper.
Phil
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Benjamin Marks
Veteran
Welcome to the current state of US manufactured goods.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Ben,
”Maggie” got swept up into wanting a Trek FX-6: $2.8K.
What Phil suggests was happening, and know that the FX-6 was only an 11-speed (1x11) and marketed as a “Fitness” bike that was as fast and quick as a road bike.
I kinda knew the gearing would not be wide enough for the hills in the Hudson Valley. Woosh $2.8K and another unused bike in my basement. The other unused bike is a 6 or 7 speed beach cruiser with tall gearing totally unsuitable for her. Weighs about half her body weight.
And I forgot the electric bike that she got gifted for doing an Instagram post. Thankfully this bike was recycled and gifted to a family member in college.
I had to put a stop to these orphaned bikes and do a “one and done.” It also was a good idea because I had mucho bike assemblies just laying around.
The Yo Betty is currently a rolling bike with a XTR 9-speed. This drivetrain is rugged and is built sturdy. The shifts are with authority and have a solid feel. Cassettes are still available (11-34T).
Snarky Joe and Devil Christian laughed really hard because of my use of a Paul’s Component “Duplex” brake lever. I bought the Ti IBIS as a single speed that was set up as a bike for Bike Polo. The Duplex lever is specialized and can control either V-brakes or Canti-brakes because the pivot is adjustable.
What made Joe and Christian laugh is that I do unconventional things that no one else would ever do. They found it kinda cute.
In use the Duplex works very well, but an understanding of physics and weight transfere is required to avoid danger of losing control of a bike. On my IBIS because of steep angles, high CG, and short wheelbase the weight transfere promotes doing endo’s. Know that out of habit and skill this is not an issue for me because I have instilled a rearward position in my riding style.
In use the front and rear brakes get applied equally, and there are inline cable adjusters supplied to balance the brakes. Really not so radical and kinda like a car that has one brake control for both the front and rear brakes.
A simple device (Duplex brake lever) could extend the use of some bike you already have.
Cal
”Maggie” got swept up into wanting a Trek FX-6: $2.8K.
What Phil suggests was happening, and know that the FX-6 was only an 11-speed (1x11) and marketed as a “Fitness” bike that was as fast and quick as a road bike.
I kinda knew the gearing would not be wide enough for the hills in the Hudson Valley. Woosh $2.8K and another unused bike in my basement. The other unused bike is a 6 or 7 speed beach cruiser with tall gearing totally unsuitable for her. Weighs about half her body weight.
And I forgot the electric bike that she got gifted for doing an Instagram post. Thankfully this bike was recycled and gifted to a family member in college.
I had to put a stop to these orphaned bikes and do a “one and done.” It also was a good idea because I had mucho bike assemblies just laying around.
The Yo Betty is currently a rolling bike with a XTR 9-speed. This drivetrain is rugged and is built sturdy. The shifts are with authority and have a solid feel. Cassettes are still available (11-34T).
Snarky Joe and Devil Christian laughed really hard because of my use of a Paul’s Component “Duplex” brake lever. I bought the Ti IBIS as a single speed that was set up as a bike for Bike Polo. The Duplex lever is specialized and can control either V-brakes or Canti-brakes because the pivot is adjustable.
What made Joe and Christian laugh is that I do unconventional things that no one else would ever do. They found it kinda cute.
In use the Duplex works very well, but an understanding of physics and weight transfere is required to avoid danger of losing control of a bike. On my IBIS because of steep angles, high CG, and short wheelbase the weight transfere promotes doing endo’s. Know that out of habit and skill this is not an issue for me because I have instilled a rearward position in my riding style.
In use the front and rear brakes get applied equally, and there are inline cable adjusters supplied to balance the brakes. Really not so radical and kinda like a car that has one brake control for both the front and rear brakes.
A simple device (Duplex brake lever) could extend the use of some bike you already have.
Cal
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Yo Betty weighs in at 19 3/4 pounds as a rolling bike, but without the shorter stem and my longer handlebars.
Cal
Cal
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
Cal,
I didn’t laugh, I thought it was cool. I would have mounted it on the left side though. The danger in my style of photography is when I roll with camera in hand, and I can only apply the front brake. Having a balanced two wheel brake would be great, especially on my folding bike.
On my full size bike I’m really liking the nuvinci cvt hub. It weighs a ton, but it is so smooth in traffic. At traffic lights or up a hill, I can gently adjust the gearing, so it always feels just right.
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
Sunlite, Profile, Problem Solvers (all are Sunlite) make “double barrel” levers, available for between $15 and $25. No need to spend $152 for a single brake lever.
You’re welcome.
Phil
You’re welcome.
Phil
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
My parts are now somewhere in New Jersey.
The three by 9-speed works really great. The shifts are solid. I can see the shifters are heavier duty and built more robustly than the more modern 11-speed XTR. Thanks to Phil I accumulated the 9-speed drivetrain many years ago and saved it for a special project. If our Yo Betty is an early 97 it could have had an XTR 8-speed.
Know that Yo Betty’s with a 1 1/8th steerer were made starting in 1997, and in 1996 Yo Betty’s had a 1 inch steerer. Production ended in the year 2000, but in 1999 Shimano came out with the 9-speed XTR. Not actually vintage correct, but period correct if you allow for overlap.
If it were not for the low early serial number YB 10 17, the sevententh ten inch frame size Yo Betty, it would be vintage correct with the matching drivetrain.
Know that I have 8-speed XTR shifters, but I kinda used Dura-Ace for the rest of the drivetrain. Could of went compact drive with a 42/32/20 set of chainrings to go weight weenie. The choice was “Maggie’s”
With a 11-34T cassette there does not seem to have a need for a clutch in the rear derailleur like in the 11-speed to deal with the chain slack.
The FatBar is cut down and ready for when the stem and brake levers arrive. The fork steerer is mucho long for a very upright position.
On Tuesday the grandson will start daycare. I will miss him, and this is part of growing up. “Maggie” and I are kinda worn down from the daycare. The days are a long 11-12 hours.
I can still go 9-speed Dura-Ace because I have a set of Paul’s Thumbies and bar-con shifters.
Cal
The three by 9-speed works really great. The shifts are solid. I can see the shifters are heavier duty and built more robustly than the more modern 11-speed XTR. Thanks to Phil I accumulated the 9-speed drivetrain many years ago and saved it for a special project. If our Yo Betty is an early 97 it could have had an XTR 8-speed.
Know that Yo Betty’s with a 1 1/8th steerer were made starting in 1997, and in 1996 Yo Betty’s had a 1 inch steerer. Production ended in the year 2000, but in 1999 Shimano came out with the 9-speed XTR. Not actually vintage correct, but period correct if you allow for overlap.
If it were not for the low early serial number YB 10 17, the sevententh ten inch frame size Yo Betty, it would be vintage correct with the matching drivetrain.
Know that I have 8-speed XTR shifters, but I kinda used Dura-Ace for the rest of the drivetrain. Could of went compact drive with a 42/32/20 set of chainrings to go weight weenie. The choice was “Maggie’s”
With a 11-34T cassette there does not seem to have a need for a clutch in the rear derailleur like in the 11-speed to deal with the chain slack.
The FatBar is cut down and ready for when the stem and brake levers arrive. The fork steerer is mucho long for a very upright position.
On Tuesday the grandson will start daycare. I will miss him, and this is part of growing up. “Maggie” and I are kinda worn down from the daycare. The days are a long 11-12 hours.
I can still go 9-speed Dura-Ace because I have a set of Paul’s Thumbies and bar-con shifters.
Cal