Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Today the short 70mm riser stem and the Love Levers, both from Psaul’s Componnts, should be delivered.
I still have to install the brake cables. Currently I have the blue anodized Paul Canti Levers installed just for mocking up, and the blue accent I think is cool looking, but the all black looks mighty evil.
Using my Cheapo digital luggage scale the bike weighs 19 pounds without a chain which I weighed separately at 3/4’ers of a pound. A sub 20 pound bike as a rigid, but I could eventually make it a sub 19 pound bike with a Ti bottom bracket, lighter pedals, lighter skewers, and a non boat anchor seat.
At AJ’s shop I saw how womens saddles are short and wide. I believe the more upright the position the wider the seat should be. Then there is a valley or canyon built into the center spine of the seat to allow space for the tenders.
There is 55 mm of spacers under the stem for a very upright position. I have about a quarter inch of spacer on top of the stem to adjust higher, and I have a set of thinner spacers to allow adjusting down also.
This new/old bike is kinda like a resto-mod: an old bike updated with boutique hardware and components. A kinda expensive bike, but then again one and done. Only cherry picked high end components, and having a brand new XTR 9-speed is mucho cool with a triple for an uncompromised wide range of gearing With mucho low gears and high enough top gear that exploits an 11 tooth.
Anyways this is no different than what I want to do with the 1966 C-10 longbed Fleetside. Pretty much replace the entire drivetrain with brand new: stroked 383 Chevy crate engine; 4 speed close ratio tranny with two overdrives; aluminum high capacity radiator; and a new rear axel with a Posi rear. Don’t forget 4 wheel disc brakes.
I figure about $20K, but this money I don’t have in the bank yet. Perhaps a modeling gig will fall from heaven… In the end I would have a mighty cool rat rod that effectively would be a new truck for under $30K.
The steering and suspension already is turnkey and all brand new. The suspension is NOS/OEM spec, but the original springs have organically sagged, especially the rear because of being loaded with a camper for decades. Effectively the rake is gone, and I might have to even lower the front suspension an inch if the added weight of the heavier engine does not load the front end enough.
The 383 crate motor is a 4-bolt 350 block with the crank of a 400 cubic engine with a longer stroke, built out as a HD truck engine. The tranny is rated for racing and 700 HP. Of course the rear axel would have to also be overbuilt, but I would build I truck that I really could not buy, or afford to buy.
I bought a 1966 truck that would be called a “survivor” because basically it still is OEM from the factory. The only mod so far is that the gas tank was moved from in the cab to the under the bed.
Anyways a real nice daydream lays ahead, but the money has to come from somewhere…
Anyways kinda like living a fantasy and reality is a daydream because of retirement. Delayed gratification at its best. My thinking and outlook is looking into the decades ahead. Basically long-long term. Also know that my C-10 resto-modded even as a rat-rod would sell for tens of thousands more than the $30K investment. Know that I paid less than $10K for my very clean C-10 with an eye catching faded patina.
Some people clear coat the patina, but for the mucho long-long term the best way to maintain the patina and prevent rust is to use a specialty wax once a year to protect the original finish. Lots of value in having OEM paint in remarkable condition.
Anyways it will be a mighty cool truck. The close ratio 4 speed means I can terrorize and have might quick acceleration around town, but with two overdrives I can do 75 MPH on the New York Throughway at a low RPM.
Cal
I still have to install the brake cables. Currently I have the blue anodized Paul Canti Levers installed just for mocking up, and the blue accent I think is cool looking, but the all black looks mighty evil.
Using my Cheapo digital luggage scale the bike weighs 19 pounds without a chain which I weighed separately at 3/4’ers of a pound. A sub 20 pound bike as a rigid, but I could eventually make it a sub 19 pound bike with a Ti bottom bracket, lighter pedals, lighter skewers, and a non boat anchor seat.
At AJ’s shop I saw how womens saddles are short and wide. I believe the more upright the position the wider the seat should be. Then there is a valley or canyon built into the center spine of the seat to allow space for the tenders.
There is 55 mm of spacers under the stem for a very upright position. I have about a quarter inch of spacer on top of the stem to adjust higher, and I have a set of thinner spacers to allow adjusting down also.
This new/old bike is kinda like a resto-mod: an old bike updated with boutique hardware and components. A kinda expensive bike, but then again one and done. Only cherry picked high end components, and having a brand new XTR 9-speed is mucho cool with a triple for an uncompromised wide range of gearing With mucho low gears and high enough top gear that exploits an 11 tooth.
Anyways this is no different than what I want to do with the 1966 C-10 longbed Fleetside. Pretty much replace the entire drivetrain with brand new: stroked 383 Chevy crate engine; 4 speed close ratio tranny with two overdrives; aluminum high capacity radiator; and a new rear axel with a Posi rear. Don’t forget 4 wheel disc brakes.
I figure about $20K, but this money I don’t have in the bank yet. Perhaps a modeling gig will fall from heaven… In the end I would have a mighty cool rat rod that effectively would be a new truck for under $30K.
The steering and suspension already is turnkey and all brand new. The suspension is NOS/OEM spec, but the original springs have organically sagged, especially the rear because of being loaded with a camper for decades. Effectively the rake is gone, and I might have to even lower the front suspension an inch if the added weight of the heavier engine does not load the front end enough.
The 383 crate motor is a 4-bolt 350 block with the crank of a 400 cubic engine with a longer stroke, built out as a HD truck engine. The tranny is rated for racing and 700 HP. Of course the rear axel would have to also be overbuilt, but I would build I truck that I really could not buy, or afford to buy.
I bought a 1966 truck that would be called a “survivor” because basically it still is OEM from the factory. The only mod so far is that the gas tank was moved from in the cab to the under the bed.
Anyways a real nice daydream lays ahead, but the money has to come from somewhere…
Anyways kinda like living a fantasy and reality is a daydream because of retirement. Delayed gratification at its best. My thinking and outlook is looking into the decades ahead. Basically long-long term. Also know that my C-10 resto-modded even as a rat-rod would sell for tens of thousands more than the $30K investment. Know that I paid less than $10K for my very clean C-10 with an eye catching faded patina.
Some people clear coat the patina, but for the mucho long-long term the best way to maintain the patina and prevent rust is to use a specialty wax once a year to protect the original finish. Lots of value in having OEM paint in remarkable condition.
Anyways it will be a mighty cool truck. The close ratio 4 speed means I can terrorize and have might quick acceleration around town, but with two overdrives I can do 75 MPH on the New York Throughway at a low RPM.
Cal