Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
It's a very nice ride. Very smooth, just about perfect sizing.
The dropouts are 30mm long and the axle is 10mm in diameter. This allows an overall rear cog spread of 10 teeth, depending upon which chainring I'm in. The rings are 38/42 which widens up the range quite a bit if you think of it as low gears and high gears. Cog tooth count overlap exists but that is the price I pay for going this route. My low range is 38: 23 - 18 teeth, and my high range is 42: 19 - 13 teeth. I have all odd tooth count cogs from 13 - 23, and also have a 14 tooth. Running 700c x 32 tires, this gives me an awesome gear spread that I can take on most paved and packed dirt terrain. If I really gel with this road-centric build, I may do a repeat with a MTB, but I'd need to have some Campy 1010 dropouts welded in since all decent MTB frames use vertical or "short" horizontal dropouts with only about 15mm of dwell, so 5mm of adjustability, which equates to only a 2 tooth cog difference. A White Industries ENO eccentric hub can handle a few more teeth but the vertical adjustment also messes with brake track, so it's not really a viable option.
What I really need to do is go to frame building school ...
The fixed Raleigh has been ridden to work just once, right before winter weather and sinus sickness set in. This Saturday, I am scheduled to work a shift and the weather is forecast to be gorgeous, so I'll probably be riding to and from work on the new fixed Raleigh. The front hub is a Shutter Precision SP8 dynamo driving a SON Edelux, which actually cost more than the frame. I bought that light maybe 10 years ago as an employee purchase and it was still expensive even with the discount. The Edelux used to live on the Univega but I decided to swap it out for a Busch & Muller headlight with the same guts as the SON but a plastic body. I'll be putting on a Busch & Muller taillight this month.
I also have a Cateye Padrone Digital computer mounted, which gives me speed, cadence and also displays pulse as it is paired with my Polar heart rate monitor.
One of these days I need to find a Suntour Superbe Pro double with 160 or 165mm right side crank to help me mitigate bounce and unequal stroke due to my leg length discrepancy.
Here's a fun workout bit of gear that I built:
I took two sawhorses with about 3 foot legs and stuck a plastic coated 1 1/8" wooden dowel rod (cut down to about 4 feet wide) in the sawhorse jaws. This gives me a bar from which I lay down and do both a plank and pull up at the same time and it is a great bit of workout. I've only been able to work on those back muscles doing either bent over rows or on a machine at a gym (when doing PT for shoulder injury recovery). Essentially the opposite of a push up. Cheap too, the dowel rod was the most expensive part!
Phil
The dropouts are 30mm long and the axle is 10mm in diameter. This allows an overall rear cog spread of 10 teeth, depending upon which chainring I'm in. The rings are 38/42 which widens up the range quite a bit if you think of it as low gears and high gears. Cog tooth count overlap exists but that is the price I pay for going this route. My low range is 38: 23 - 18 teeth, and my high range is 42: 19 - 13 teeth. I have all odd tooth count cogs from 13 - 23, and also have a 14 tooth. Running 700c x 32 tires, this gives me an awesome gear spread that I can take on most paved and packed dirt terrain. If I really gel with this road-centric build, I may do a repeat with a MTB, but I'd need to have some Campy 1010 dropouts welded in since all decent MTB frames use vertical or "short" horizontal dropouts with only about 15mm of dwell, so 5mm of adjustability, which equates to only a 2 tooth cog difference. A White Industries ENO eccentric hub can handle a few more teeth but the vertical adjustment also messes with brake track, so it's not really a viable option.
What I really need to do is go to frame building school ...
The fixed Raleigh has been ridden to work just once, right before winter weather and sinus sickness set in. This Saturday, I am scheduled to work a shift and the weather is forecast to be gorgeous, so I'll probably be riding to and from work on the new fixed Raleigh. The front hub is a Shutter Precision SP8 dynamo driving a SON Edelux, which actually cost more than the frame. I bought that light maybe 10 years ago as an employee purchase and it was still expensive even with the discount. The Edelux used to live on the Univega but I decided to swap it out for a Busch & Muller headlight with the same guts as the SON but a plastic body. I'll be putting on a Busch & Muller taillight this month.
I also have a Cateye Padrone Digital computer mounted, which gives me speed, cadence and also displays pulse as it is paired with my Polar heart rate monitor.
One of these days I need to find a Suntour Superbe Pro double with 160 or 165mm right side crank to help me mitigate bounce and unequal stroke due to my leg length discrepancy.
Here's a fun workout bit of gear that I built:
I took two sawhorses with about 3 foot legs and stuck a plastic coated 1 1/8" wooden dowel rod (cut down to about 4 feet wide) in the sawhorse jaws. This gives me a bar from which I lay down and do both a plank and pull up at the same time and it is a great bit of workout. I've only been able to work on those back muscles doing either bent over rows or on a machine at a gym (when doing PT for shoulder injury recovery). Essentially the opposite of a push up. Cheap too, the dowel rod was the most expensive part!
Phil