New York NYC July Meet-Up

Range-rover said:
I had the day off today, and the one thing that bothered me about the Nikon S3
was the advance lever, it always drag when it went back, well not any more it
works great now. I did cleaned it out a little more, and it's working much better.

Bob
Click to expand...

One day I might get one. I am starting to like my F more and more, and either S3 or SP would be a wonderful companion.
 
CNNY said:
Klaus and Cal,
thanks for bringing those prints in, it was very informative. They all look great, so I agree with John that nowadays it is hard to do a bad print. While the images from the epsons look great, I still think I prefer the paper quality of the digital C-prints, or b+w Ilford papers. I'd love to see prints side by side printed on an Epson and Ilford paper from one of these services;
http://www.digitalsilverimaging.com/printing
https://us.whitewall.com/photo-lab/photo-print/baryt-paper

Cal, since you are an unrepentant film shooter, Pramodh and I decided that you need to get a Visoflex III to turn your MM into a scanner. If you do, I'll teach you how to dust-spot.
Click to expand...

Christian,

Steve H. also is promoting the Visoflex for my Monochrom. In college I did a lot of copy work with my Nikon as an artist's assistant, and I currently have a Nikon 55/2.8 Macro setup with extention tubes and slide copier.

I still find the Piezography matte Neutral inkset with Canson Rag Photographique apealing for some of my work. With swapping out only two carts out of the inkset I can also convert the inkset into a digital negative inkset for making fiber base wet prints.

I'm going to get a 8 1/2 by 11 proof made up of that Columbus Circle shot I showed you. For those who do not know the shot it is from the AOL Time Warner atrium from an upper level, but I luckily found out that the light was polarized that day and I used my 28 Cron to create a mirror image reflextion of Columbus Circle and the southern end of Central Park. This image begs to be printed big.

I intend on getting this image printed just slightly smaller than 20x30 on 24x36 inch paper for museum mounting. Somehow I have an art dealer friend who is interested in my work and wants to collect it. I figure I will get at least 3 printed for the volume discount: one is for my wall; one is for my portfolio; and one is for the art dealer. I want to see what the Monochrom can do, also I will have Jon Cone, a master printer do the post processing of my Monochrom file.

Anyways I'll be concentrating on printing over this winter. Its one thing to be a good photographer and another thing to become a good printer. I just need something to obsess about or else I'll go crazy stuck indoors over the winter.

Cal
 
Crazy Fedya said:
Very nice. I have a couple of them, and it is one of my favorite cameras. Did you use it yet?
Click to expand...

Only a little bit. It's hard for me to make it fit into all of the projects I'm working on. I have to figure out a project that fits it. All of my other projects are digital and when I got out I prefer to bring a digital.
 
jsrockit said:
Only a little bit. It's hard for me to make it fit into all of the projects I'm working on. I have to figure out a project that fits it. All of my other projects are digital and when I got out I prefer to bring a digital.
Click to expand...

I have similar difficulty using k10d. When I leave my house I just take whichever film camera is loaded. This morning I have dropped off 8 rolls to be developed. 7 of them shot with IIa. I just love how it feels. Having 35mm and 21mm Biogons helps, as well. Wonderful lenses.
Also, I have shimmed 35mm f/1.8 W. Nikkor to use on Contax. What a delight!
 
jsrockit said:
Only a little bit. It's hard for me to make it fit into all of the projects I'm working on. I have to figure out a project that fits it. All of my other projects are digital and when I got out I prefer to bring a digital.
Click to expand...

A straight up portrait project? Maybe shoot all the crazy people we run in?
 
jsrockit said:
Only a little bit. It's hard for me to make it fit into all of the projects I'm working on. I have to figure out a project that fits it. All of my other projects are digital and when I got out I prefer to bring a digital.
Click to expand...

John,

That Contax is like you:quirky. I think it suits you well because it has personality. Perhaps the project will be shooting Kodak 5222. It seems that a bunch of us are likely going to start a 5222 co-op. I already know that Dave Lackey wants to be in the loop.

Cal
 
Cal,
I am using a few rolls of 5222, that Phil has generously provided to me. What co-op are we talking about?
Sam.
Calzone said:
John,

That Contax is like you:quirky. I think it suits you well because it has personality. Perhaps the project will be shooting Kodak 5222. It seems that a bunch of us are likely going to start a 5222 co-op. I already know that Dave Lackey wants to be in the loop.

Cal
Click to expand...
 
Crazy Fedya said:
Cal,
I am using a few rolls of 5222, that Phil has generously provided to me. What co-op are we talking about?
Sam.
Click to expand...

Sam,

Basically Kodak 5222 is readily available here in NYC from Kodak, but in 400 foot lengths for $140.00. This makes about 75-80 rolls of film for a cost of about $2.00 a roll after you factor in tax.

For many this is too much film, and there are difficulties because this bulk load cannot be used in a standard bulk loader. Also know that there is an initial outlay of buying refillable cassettes (about $100.00 for a 100 reusable cassettes). I figure that using the economy of scale that all members of a co-op might enjoy lower costs.

I'm a big proponent of shooting a lot to become a better photographer. This also means lowering the costs of processing by making my own developer ADOX. Back when I used ID-11 I use to mix 20 liters a month. Also know that last summer I was shooting 50-60 rolls of film a month over the summer, and at that rate of shooting costs really multiply.

I kinda have access to HPLC grade chemically pure water that measures above 18.2 megaohms. I also work in a research lab. Adox is basically Borax with a few chemical additives. Also know that I recycle 1 gallon brown glass bottles from work that otherwise would be thrown out.

Ultimately I want to make analog photography as inexpensive as possible without sacrificing quality. Also want to enjoy that retro look. My friend Dave Lackey already is on board. He already gave me a roll of 5222 to try when I met him in Savannah, and I already promised him that I would help him secure a supply. This favor is readily easy to do, especially since bulking up is just that.

Anyone who wants to shoot lots of film at low cost should consider joining the co-op for there own benefit even if its for just sharing information, results and experience.

Cal
 
jsrockit said:
I don't want to bring it with me all the time and you know I prefer digital for my walking around cameras. It'll have to be something different than my "street" stuff.
Click to expand...

John, the technique works like this;
You walk around with the contax around your neck, and when people walk up to you and say "Ooh, nice camera", you take their picture with the Ricoh.
 
Cal,
I would definitely be interested in joining in. Inexpensive film, developing, classic looking images... What is not to like?
Is Adox developer doable in powder form or concentrate, that has longer shelf life?
 
CNNY said:
John, the technique works like this;
You walk around with the contax around your neck, and when people walk up to you and say "Ooh, nice camera", you take their picture with the Ricoh.
Click to expand...

True... but the Fujis are even easier. People come up, say nice Leica, I don't correct them, and then make their photo.
 
jsrockit said:
True... but the Fujis are even easier. People come up, say nice Leica, I don't correct them, and then make their photo.
Click to expand...

I was using an old Minolta strap for my Linhof, until someone walked up and said; "I used to use Minoltas too." I've now retired that strap.
 
Crazy Fedya said:
Cal,
I would definitely be interested in joining in. Inexpensive film, developing, classic looking images... What is not to like?
Is Adox developer doable in powder form or concentrate, that has longer shelf life?
Click to expand...

Sam,

Check out the massive thread in the film subforum. I only got through the first 15-20 pages of posts. Information overload.

It seems 5222 responds well to Diafine when shot at 400. This is great because I use Diafine for Arcos at 100 ISO and Tri-X at 800 ISO, and here's the kicker: Diafine gets reused without replenishment. Effectively the cost of developer is a one time outlay except little losses due to wetting the film or spillage.

ADOX is a formula that is basically Borax with a few additives. People buy Mule Team laundry soap at the grocery store as a source of Borax (the main ingredient). This seems to be a very popular developer for 5222. It is cheap, and if you want to economize further you can mix up a replenisher, but be aware there bare reports that straining through a coffee filter might be required as sediment builds up. Tom A processes 50 rolls and then makes up another batch. That guy shoots mucho film.

Cal
 
jsrockit said:
Someone called my X-Pro1 a Yashica yesterday... I think they thought it was an Electro 35. I can understand that.

Also, for those of you who are interested, a summary from the meet-up:

https://us.whitewall.com/ - printing service told to me by Christian

www.moo.com - site used to make Fidel's postcards

http://www.dickblick.com/ - Where Klaus got his prints...
Click to expand...


You could mistake it for a Leica but a Yashica no way and a Electro 35, When I use the Nikon they look and say "Nikon Made Rangefinders "
or some look oddly at it trying to figure it all out.

Bob
 
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