Off center. Who cares or?

Might get a 12524 and if it looks better, sell my 12526 with cap. DAG said that might be a good idea.

I really don’t like the metal circle hoods. Had one on my v3 and it bugged me. The v4 is so prone to flare that the square hoods are the way to go anyway from what I’ve read.
 
Fjäll said:
I had the same problem. A 10 minute job if you have a small screw driver and 10 fingers.
Click to expand...

Really? I was told by the first shop that the lens needs to be fully disassembled in order to move that ring. How exactly does one do that? And I wonder if it would matter since the ring was filed. A 12524 probably won’t alleviate the issue, huh? Thought maybe just maybe it might because it’s the hood designed for the lens but from what I understand it’s strikingly similar to the 12526 only the 12524 is slightly smaller.

Don said “the only thing that sets the aperture index is a key-way pin and that keyway pin is in the slot that it fits into and there's no other adjustment to that system. All I can do is to file the pin so I can turn the optical head closer to 12:00. But the way you saw the lens when I sent it back is the way it was set at the factory.” And that’s what was done.

So the first shop was full of **** in order to charge more $?

Can anyone provide pictures of the repair process? I am clumsy and not really mechanically inclined unfortunately. I absolutely cannot send it back again for this as I have most likely annoyed the hell out of him by now and I cannot go back to being without my setup even for 10 days.
 
Honestly, I'm totally puzzled by the info the OP shares.

On the one hand there's this:

bert26 said:
...
This setup I have is just so perfect for what I do.
...
Click to expand...

But there's also this:
bert26 said:
...
I’ve shot 7 rolls since getting it back but haven’t processed any of the film.
...
Click to expand...

And a busload of camera-groin shots.


I'd say if it's such an asset to what you do, why spend months on end sending it away because something does not line up?

And shoot only 7 rolls that don't get developed? The purpose of photography is the image, not the camera, right?


Buckle up Dorothy and go shoot the thing! Who cares whether the hood is 2º off level! Get the image!
 
The hood seems to me to be lined up properly. I think it may be the curve in the top plate that makes it seem crooked. But the bottom edge of the hood looks parallel to the bottom plate. So I think it's OK.

You could get a version I (8 element) Summicron: very sharp, and no chance of the round hood being cockeyed. The versions II and III use round hoods, too. The pre-ASPH Summilux, too.
 
It won't make your photos worse, or better, for whatever that's worth.


I suppose I'm unlike others in that I can't stand perfect cameras, because I know I'm going to use them and eventually something is going to get scratched or dinged or peel or whatever... better to show some wear already so I don't notice every tiny new thing that appears.
 
bert26 said:
Really? I was told by the first shop that the lens needs to be fully disassembled in order to move that ring. How exactly does one do that? And I wonder if it would matter since the ring was filed. A 12524 probably won’t alleviate the issue, huh? Thought maybe just maybe it might because it’s the hood designed for the lens but from what I understand it’s strikingly similar to the 12526 only the 12524 is slightly smaller.

Don said “the only thing that sets the aperture index is a key-way pin and that keyway pin is in the slot that it fits into and there's no other adjustment to that system. All I can do is to file the pin so I can turn the optical head closer to 12:00. But the way you saw the lens when I sent it back is the way it was set at the factory.” And that’s what was done.

So the first shop was full of **** in order to charge more $?

Can anyone provide pictures of the repair process? I am clumsy and not really mechanically inclined unfortunately. I absolutely cannot send it back again for this as I have most likely annoyed the hell out of him by now and I cannot go back to being without my setup even for 10 days.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I lost my V4 recently otherwise I would've posted you some pictures. But I remember it was a very easy fix. I have disassembled the V4 completely in the past and it's overall a very simple construction apart for the aperture mechanism. Focus the lens to infinity and see if you see any screws appearing on the sides of the barrel. These are what holds the front part in place. These are also the screws that needs to be tightened to fix the infamous loose front issue on this lens.
 
Rob-F said:
The hood seems to me to be lined up properly. I think it may be the curve in the top plate that makes it seem crooked. But the bottom edge of the hood looks parallel to the bottom plate. So I think it's OK.

You could get a version I (8 element) Summicron: very sharp, and no chance of the round hood being cockeyed. The versions II and III use round hoods, too. The pre-ASPH Summilux, too.
Click to expand...

you're referring to this image, yeah?

48017408151_493436783b_c.jpg
[/url]IMG-2420 by

And honestly there's no way I'll sell this lens now. Long story short I sold my v3 a year ago because I found a v4 for something like $1200 shipped from Belgium. Arrived with the glass destroyed from DHL. The whole DHL holding it and getting paid back thing was like a 3 month process. Then I paid the going rate for this one and it arrived ****ed. Then yeah blah blah blah back and forth back and forth. Thinking about going through the hassle of selling it and everything drives me insane.

Whatever, it's a bit off. Rather it wasn't but I don't trust myself to realign it slightly. I will 100% without question **** it up. A joy to shoot with, just sort of annoying after all the **** I dealt with for a year.
 
Isn't it odd how the reaction to a problem with a Leica or Contax lens differs wildly from the reaction to a similar problem with a FED or Kiev's lens? I wonder why...


Regards, David
 
Last post regarding this but t he reason it's off isn't the hood, it's because the index was off straight from the factory but the clip was dead center. Had to be filed off center a bit to the right to line it up the index which causes the hood to be off. Bothers me more but I should have realized that. I'll shoot with it until I go home early next year get it centered then live without iit for a couple weeks. Doesn't matter when shooting but this kinda stuff bothers me. You should see how perfectly dialed I got my turntable.
 
So will a 12585 hood work with this lens if i'm using a filter? I don't like round hoods but guess I'm ****ed. Will it work as well as the square hood? My camera is fine to shoot with but every time I set it down or look at it I start fuming.
 
Hey so I think the real issue is the symmetry on the outermost ring (where the hood clips in) being off. The length between 2 and 5.6 is longer than the length between 5.6 and 16. Maybe the photo doesn’t do the best job of showing it, but it is the case. Could it actually be the hood? Thinking about getting a 12524 if I can ever find one that hasn’t been sitting on eBay for months overpriced as hell and if it’s better or just as off, I’ll sell the 12526 with cap. I hate lens caps anyway. The index is almost perfectly aligned (maybe slightly off to the right) but I think the way it was set at the factory might be the issue here...

66E85202-1C52-4261-A596-C38C8EB3D547
 
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