MXP
Established
Yes, exactly so it is not really a practical problem. I just listen to the shutter.
To have the meter reach 1/500th I have to direct the camera into the sun.
ludoo
Established
If you look at the schematics and parts list on the XA Service Manual, you will see there are two distinct CdS cells: one for the shutter ("ES5011 CdS cell for shutter"), one for the meter ("ES5013 CdS cell for meter"). So you can disconnect, rip off, or short the meter and the auto exposure will still work.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Do you have a multimeter? Can you check the circuit to the meter? I don't think that the meter's "guts" have gotten turned (I just can't imagine how that could happen), although that solution to fixing the problem might work. I think that you have a corroded wire, a short or a bad solder in there somewhere.
MXP
Established
I have just put fresh batteries in the camera and battery check is ok also. Contacts to battery very clean. I think I have learned to live with the camera as it is. The meter is about two stops off. It is like the old selenium meters which gets slow by age. But I know that this is a CDS so what causes the problem (seems to be a general problem with this camera) I don't know. I don't want to damage anything by taking the top of. I have no experience with this camera
.....it is eassier with a god old Vitomatic IIa or something like this ludoo
Established
I have just put fresh batteries in the camera and battery check is ok also. Contacts to battery very clean. I think I have learned to live with the camera as it is. The meter is about two stops off. It is like the old selenium meters which gets slow by age. But I know that this is a CDS so what causes the problem (seems to be a general problem with this camera) I don't know. I don't want to damage anything by taking the top of. I have no experience with this camera
Probably an oxidized solder joint/contact, or the carbon resistors have drifted off. Removing the top is fairly easy if you take your time and do it gently:
* remove the 5 screws on the bottom plate (one is under the battery test lever), then slightly separate the bottom plate from the body so that you can slide the bottom of the front cover from its rail;
* then angle the cover and slide it also from the top rail, and put it aside;
* remove the top screws (one between the film advance and the viewfinder, one under the red button which you can pry off, one keeping the rewind knob in place -- go gently or the rewind knob will split into 3 pieces and it takes time to put it back together -- and finally two under the rewind knob itself)
* remove the top from the back, then angle it gently and slide it off the body in front, being careful not to break the wires going from the body to the small speaker on the top plate
With the top plate off, you have access to the rangefinder and frame counter to clean them, and can fix the meter level by gently rotating it.
MXP
Established
Thank you!
I have saved your description on my PC so I can use it later if I find it necessary to investigate what is wrong. Rangefinder window and everything is very clean and camera takes extremely sharp images so I will wait until a serious problem shows up. And agains....the lens seems to good for the camera body. But probably difficult to transfer to another body
one of the small Minolta Hi-matic bodies would be better I think. But the electronic shutter release is also very nice on the XA.....when it fires ....about one out of ten times I need to re-press the shutter release
FallisPhoto
Veteran
I have just put fresh batteries in the camera and battery check is ok also. Contacts to battery very clean. I think I have learned to live with the camera as it is. The meter is about two stops off. It is like the old selenium meters which gets slow by age. But I know that this is a CDS so what causes the problem (seems to be a general problem with this camera) I don't know. I don't want to damage anything by taking the top of. I have no experience with this camera
Taking the top off is easy. Heck, it is easier than the Vitomatic. Just be careful not to yank the wires loose. You can always just rotate the meter by two stops, but I'd check the solders first, and test the resistors, since that might actually fix the problem instead of just adjusting for it.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
MXP
Established
Yes, but if I rotate the meter the needle will probably stay at 1/2 sec. in "idle" (no light coming in). Think another kind of adjustment is necessary. Probably one of the resistors has to be replaced. It is a funny construction with two different cells.....one for the meter and another for the shutter.
To take the top of the Vitomatic IIa was easy it was more complicated to come into the shutter and clean it and then assemble and adjust the lens for infinity and after this adjust the rangefinder. It would have been an expensive repair if I should pay my self pr. hour
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
+1 for The lens on XA doesn't suck. Period.
Those who think otherwise haven't yet seen enough results from the camera (go find them online, plenty of them).
Oh, and if you don't like the RF, fine, get an XA2 or even better, XA4 and have fun.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Yes, but if I rotate the meter the needle will probably stay at 1/2 sec. in "idle" (no light coming in). Think another kind of adjustment is necessary. Probably one of the resistors has to be replaced. It is a funny construction with two different cells.....one for the meter and another for the shutter.
To take the top of the Vitomatic IIa was easy it was more complicated to come into the shutter and clean it and then assemble and adjust the lens for infinity and after this adjust the rangefinder. It would have been an expensive repair if I should pay my self pr. hour
Like I said, I'd check the solders and test the resistors first. I prefer fixing problems instead of making allowances for them or adjusting for them.
Well, fixing the meter on that XA would go a bit over my standard charge for a CLA, because it isn't normally considered part of a CLA. However, since what you are describing doing to a Vitomatic is just a CLA, that would be covered by my flat standard fee of $80. I wouldn't like it much, not for $80 on that camera, and if I had other cameras waiting I might turn the job down, but I can CLA a Vitomatic.
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MXP
Established
I did the Vitomatic CLA as a learning lesson. I had some repair notes on how to disassemble the camera. I think the Bessamatic and the Ultramatic will be more complicated. Also the Zeiss Ikon matic with the mechanical auto exposure I have been warned to try to disassemble. People says you loosen 3 screws from the back and then it says "pling" and all parts fall off
....but these are SLR's and not a topic for the rangefinder forum ludoo
Established
It's definitely the right approach for a pro, I'm not too sure it's the right one for an amateur.
The resistors are *really* tiny and there's three of them all bunched up together. The solder joints are very small, and there's little space to work in. Desoldering the resistors, finding the correct ones in the right size and value, and soldering them back on again requires a bit of proficiency with a soldering iron on tiny circuits (SMD components, etc.).
On the other hand, rotating the lever assembly is something anybody who manages to remove the top from an XA can do, and it won't harm anything.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
It's definitely the right approach for a pro, I'm not too sure it's the right one for an amateur.
The resistors are *really* tiny and there's three of them all bunched up together. The solder joints are very small, and there's little space to work in. Desoldering the resistors, finding the correct ones in the right size and value, and soldering them back on again requires a bit of proficiency with a soldering iron on tiny circuits (SMD components, etc.).
On the other hand, rotating the lever assembly is something anybody who manages to remove the top from an XA can do, and it won't harm anything.
If he can disassemble a Vitomatic and CLA it, is talking about paying himself per hour for his work (implying he gets paid -- at least occasionally -- for doing this kind of work), and from his other comments, I think the only thing holding MXP back from doing this professionally (if he isn't already) is that he just doesn't want to.
MXP
Established
Yes, and also that I am not experienced enough and only know a few cameras on the disassemble level and only to a certain degree. It would also take to much of my time I want to spend for taking pictures
......and it is also a responsibility to work on other peoples cameras. If a spanner wrench slips....you have marks on the camera. Also it is easy to make a mark in a screw head. I have heard that a real pro should do a total disassemble and assemble without any marks at all. So you probably need special tools for each camera model. But nice to know that I can clean a Compur or Prontor shutter. When buying old folders the shutter always need a CLA and this is not to complicated on these models. I have got the different kind of lubricants needed.ludoo
Established
Can I profit from your experience and go a bit OT, by asking you to expand a bit on the lubricants? I live in Italy and find it always difficult to find substitutes for the inevitably US-centered brands you read about. I usually have to find out the "regular" uses for a substance (eg lubricating sawing machines, etc.), then tour the stores shooting lots of questions.
MXP
Established
I use micro-tools for my source for finding lubricant for cameras.
http://www.micro-tools.de/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Eng&Category_Code=LUB
If we are talking shutter then I use the OIL-20 for the very fine parts (escapements etc) and the Molylube for the rough parts (metal sliding against metal). I also have the Molylube as dry powder but I have not tried it yet. I have to do some experiments. But I think there are many religions on how to lubricate a shutter
.....some think it should not be lubricated at all. A Prontor may run without any lubricants but a Compur needs some. That is my experience. For helicals I use the HG-30. Before I got these lubricants I just used SuperLube products. They make from dry lubricants (spray) to real grease.
MXP
Established
I use micro-tools for my source for finding lubricant for cameras.
http://www.micro-tools.de/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Eng&Category_Code=LUB
If we are talking shutter then I use the OIL-20 for the very fine parts (escapements etc) and the Molylube for the rough parts (metal sliding against metal). I also have the Molylube as dry powder but I have not tried it yet. I have to do some experiments. But I think there are many religions on how to lubricate a shutter
Before I got these lubricants I just used SuperLube products. They make from dry lubricants (spray) to real grease.
The NyOil (the one in the red bottle) is also a very fine oil. But it exist in a newer version (NyOil II in a blue bottle) like this:
http://www.maximum-velocity.com/5107.htm
It has better data. I have never tried it......but would like to do.....some day!
FallisPhoto
Veteran
FallisPhoto
Veteran
I use micro-tools for my source for finding lubricant for cameras.
http://www.micro-tools.de/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Eng&Category_Code=LUB
If we are talking shutter then I use the OIL-20 for the very fine parts (escapements etc) and the Molylube for the rough parts (metal sliding against metal). I also have the Molylube as dry powder but I have not tried it yet. I have to do some experiments. But I think there are many religions on how to lubricate a shutter
Before I got these lubricants I just used SuperLube products. They make from dry lubricants (spray) to real grease.
If you are talking about powdered lubricants, I'd advise you to NEVER use them, especially spray lubes (like WD-40). The only dry lubricant I have ever found that stays where you put it is graphite in stick form: http://www.heatoncooper.co.uk/eshop1/shopimages/products/normal/graphitefaberstick.jpg
They are sold in art supply stores and are used for drawing. Ask for a #6B. You rub it on and then wipe most of it off. Pretty much any other form of dry lubricant will wind up all over the inside of the camera.