dacookieman
Cookie Monster

My Workhorse for the weekend. OM1 loaded with Agfa Vista 100, ready to rock and rollll.....!!!
But just when i was about to head out, it started POURING:bang:
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Wow ... that 1.2 is such a dainty little lens! 
Aurelius
Well-known
dtcls100
Well-known
Recently got a 2-4 screen that was professionally etched with a grid pattern. Viewfinder now looks incredible. Snaps into focus incredibly with Tamron SP 80-200 f2.8. I'd like to post some photos, but my flatbed scanner does a lousy job of scanning prints.
dtcls100
Well-known
Wintertime is OM-1 time. They really shine in cold, bad weather. Their simplicity, smooth handling, and trouble and battery free operation remains very appealing after more than 30 years.
Darkhorse
pointed and shot
My first time using the OM2 was in an overcast situation, so I wasn't sure what the meter readings should be. But it did seem as though the readings were a little too fast. This past weekend I used it again, and I had my point and shoot to compare. Indeed the OM2 is underexposing by a full stop. This is easily corrected with the exposure compensation dial, but what could be causing this problem?
I'm sure I have the correct silver oxide batteries. Do I need to leave the camera on for a while for the batteries to warm up or something?
I'm sure I have the correct silver oxide batteries. Do I need to leave the camera on for a while for the batteries to warm up or something?
dtcls100
Well-known
Do I need to leave the camera on for a while for the batteries to warm up or something?
No warm up is needed. Are you sure you are using the same ASA setting? Also, the OM-2 is sensitive to the voltage put out by the batteries. That's why you have to use silver oxide (1.5 volt S76 type) batteries, as opposed to alkalines. I'd buy a replacement set of S76 batteries and try them out to rule out a battery problem. If that does not solve the problem, you probably need to get the camera checked out.
andreios
Well-known
Friends, I've recently acquired and then very soon foolishly agreed to sell a lovely XA. The reason for which I agreed to sell was that it was really small and clumsy in my not exactly big but quite long-ish hands. However, recently I developed the rest of the batch of negatives I made with that camera and now I cannot stop looking at them - how brilliant they are with a camera as simple as that.
My question now is - as a recent convert to maitanism with only one OM body and a 50/1.8 and 85/2) - would any of the wide-ish (28-35mm) OM lenses have the "most similar" signature to the XA look or shall I look for any special model? I mean - is e.g. the OM 35/2.8 of the same/similar optical construction as the XA's lens?
Thank you.
My question now is - as a recent convert to maitanism with only one OM body and a 50/1.8 and 85/2) - would any of the wide-ish (28-35mm) OM lenses have the "most similar" signature to the XA look or shall I look for any special model? I mean - is e.g. the OM 35/2.8 of the same/similar optical construction as the XA's lens?
Thank you.
nikku
Well-known
Friends, I've recently acquired and then very soon foolishly agreed to sell a lovely XA. The reason for which I agreed to sell was that it was really small and clumsy in my not exactly big but quite long-ish hands. However, recently I developed the rest of the batch of negatives I made with that camera and now I cannot stop looking at them - how brilliant they are with a camera as simple as that.
My question now is - as a recent convert to maitanism with only one OM body and a 50/1.8 and 85/2) - would any of the wide-ish (28-35mm) OM lenses have the "most similar" signature to the XA look or shall I look for any special model? I mean - is e.g. the OM 35/2.8 of the same/similar optical construction as the XA's lens?
Thank you.
Short answer, no. The 35/2.8 gives pretty decent results, but it is a much different lens than the XA Zuiko 35/2.8 lens. That lens has a very unique signature, one all its own.
Darkhorse
pointed and shot
No warm up is needed. Are you sure you are using the same ASA setting? Also, the OM-2 is sensitive to the voltage put out by the batteries. That's why you have to use silver oxide (1.5 volt S76 type) batteries, as opposed to alkalines. I'd buy a replacement set of S76 batteries and try them out to rule out a battery problem. If that does not solve the problem, you probably need to get the camera checked out.
I'm using energizer's 1.55v silver oxide batteries that I found at Target. Could that minimally smaller voltage be a problem? Or is the slight difference in the battery problematic.
I know freestyle has some Kodak branded 1.5v silver oxide batteries... I wish I included them in my order that was shipped out yesterday. Hm.
nikku
Well-known
I'm using energizer's 1.55v silver oxide batteries that I found at Target. Could that minimally smaller voltage be a problem? Or is the slight difference in the battery problematic.
I know freestyle has some Kodak branded 1.5v silver oxide batteries... I wish I included them in my order that was shipped out yesterday. Hm.
I doubt that is the issue. The meter probably needs to be calibrated. Also keep in mind that if you're shooting without film, the actual exposure will be significantly longer than what the meter display reads in the viewfinder, since the light is measured as it is reflected off the film, or in this case, off the film back once the shutter is fired. Prior to firing the shutter, the reading is from another cds cell located by the mirror box.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Even with a set of LR44 batteries that were on the way down (the test light was flashing and not constant) my OM-2 was less than a stop out. It's hard to tell with these OM-2s because of the way they calculate exposure as nikku explained ... what you're seeing in the viewfinder may not be the shutter speed the camera chooses in AE once the light hits the film surface ... though I think this is only the case when the shuuter speed is less than 1/60.
What about when you use it metering manually?
What about when you use it metering manually?
pete63uk
Established
I've been in situations where my old Wesson light meter, a digital Shepard light meter, my OM-1 and my Oly E-30 have all had different readings. All within 2 stops, but that's quite a discrepency. I appreciate that the E-30 is probably geared more for a CCD sensor but you would expect the others to be fairly consistant.
igi
Well-known
My question now is - as a recent convert to maitanism...
Maitanism... I like that
Aurelius
Well-known
sreed2006
Well-known
The effects of Zuikoholism really hit hard when you take a trip.
You either have to leave some nice lenses at home, or carry a big case that weighs several pounds and takes up lots of room (depending, of course, on how bad the Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) has been, which for me has been two dozen lenses bad).
You either have to leave some nice lenses at home, or carry a big case that weighs several pounds and takes up lots of room (depending, of course, on how bad the Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) has been, which for me has been two dozen lenses bad).
pete63uk
Established
Tell me about it. I'm thinking of getting another lowpro for my film gear. I'm thinking one OM + 2 lenses. But wait, I might put in the OM-1 for old times sake. And I'll need the 28, 35 & 50. But I might want the 135 and the 200. Ah, but what about uber long tele, should squeeze in the 2x tele. Hmm, what if a zoom situation arises?? Maybe a couple of zooms to cover the 28 - 210 range just in case. OMG, I can't decide between the OM-2 and the OM-4 to keep the OM-1 company. Maybe both??
Zuikoholism should carry a health warning. It's a fun affliction.
Zuikoholism should carry a health warning. It's a fun affliction.
Darkhorse
pointed and shot
OK I did a fairly simple audio test indoors. I metered something (the sofa) manually for a 1 sec exposure, and then I switched to auto. The exposure on auto was much longer, thus not having the underexposure issue of the prism metering. I got the OM2 for the aperture priority anyway.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
OK I did a fairly simple audio test indoors. I metered something (the sofa) manually for a 1 sec exposure, and then I switched to auto. The exposure on auto was much longer, thus not having the underexposure issue of the prism metering. I got the OM2 for the aperture priority anyway.
That was with film in the camera gather?
Darkhorse
pointed and shot
Just with the leader for the initial test. This morning I shot a roll of 24 and alternated between manual and auto. The difference is readily apparent on the negatives... which are still drying due to the unusually wet weather here.
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