OM, I've become a Zuikoholic!

Sunset

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OM-1n + 50mm 1.4​
 
MiniMoke said:
I just wanted to tell you about my excellent experience with a guy in the UK who did a VERY nice CLA on my OM2n.

He did the usual magic with the meter, shutter speeds and cleaned it up thoroughly; greased the things to grease and I got back a camera that feels like new. Changed the prism as well, as the old one had some marks from decomposing foam.

He kept me up to date by mail and even called to ask if he should replace the prism - excellent service!

All this for a VERY good price (£ 65 + postage).

Interrested? Just drop a line to Michael Spencer - Photo Repair Service in Clay Cross, Derbyshire.
www.camerarepairs-r-us.co.uk
email: camerarepairer@btopenworld.com

Michael is a trained camera tech, with 47 years of experience to look back to!

I'm not affiliated in any way with Michael, except as a VERY happy customer.
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Thanks I might give him a shout to take a look at a BARGAIN lens I've just bought.

...50mm f1.2 for £50!!!

There's some fungus on the rear element but it doesn't look serious so I think a full strip down is in order. Even if I end up spending £300 on it, it'll still be a lot cheaper than the crazy prices in eBay.

Cheers
 
ped said:
Thanks I might give him a shout to take a look at a BARGAIN lens I've just bought.

...50mm f1.2 for £50!!!

There's some fungus on the rear element but it doesn't look serious so I think a full strip down is in order. Even if I end up spending £300 on it, it'll still be a lot cheaper than the crazy prices in eBay.

Cheers
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Hm, they didn;t reply... however three other places have done and I'll send the lens to one of them.

Here's a picture of the fungus - doesn't look too bad actually, so I have high hopes:





 
redisburning said:
well not only did you get a great lens for a great price, you can rescue this one from misuse.
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I hope so. I'm confused though as one shop have said by email (after seeing above pics)

"From the photo's it looks like there is fungus in the rear lens group. This should be a sealed unit and can not be cleaned.
We do NOT have a replacement rear lens group!"

However another place (who I sent the lens to today) didn't seem to think it would be a problem.

I hope I don't find out down the line that it can't be fixed?
 
Picked up an OM4-ti for 75€. It's in pretty good condition as far as I can tell, except for a lot of paint loss. Mostly on the back door, so I've already swapped out the back door with an old OM-1's back door I had laying around for parts. I don't like the film-tab holder anyway.
The one thing that doesn't seem to be working too well is the film advance lever. It's a little rough. I have the same problem on my OM-2 (though it's a little worse on the OM-2 than on the OM-4). I was wondering if this might have something to do with the use of a Winder? The OM-2 has been used with a Winder 2 quite a lot before I purchased it (or at least the seller told me he exclusively used it with the winder. I don't know how many rolls he shot with it). The OM-4ti I just bought has evidently been used heavily and for all I know it might have been with a winder.
Is anyone familiar with this problem? The two OM-1's I own have buttery, buttery smooth film advance and I can't imagine they have ever been CLA'd.

Also: I want to try a 35mm. I know the conensus in general is that both the f/2.8 and f/2 version aren't really good. But I have heard some later copies can be good. What should I be looking for?
 
Oh my! I just found out the OM4-ti has a built-in diopter! My eyes aren't that bad, but my right eye isn't 100%. I got tested at -1.25 a couple months back. My left eye is near perfect. Shooting with my left eye is easier, but shooting with my right one was much more convenient. Now it's an easy decision. I can already tell I'm going to love this camera.
 
Tijmendal said:
Also: I want to try a 35mm. I know the conensus in general is that both the f/2.8 and f/2 version aren't really good. But I have heard some later copies can be good. What should I be looking for?
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1) A liberal retun policy!

2) Preferably a late model (black rim) lens.

3) Verify that the diaphragm blades open and close quicklly with no hesitation. This can be tested using the aperture stepdown button at the side of the lens or the auto diaphram pin at the back of the lens.

(Some OM Zuiko lenses are beginning to experience sticky diaphram blades due to lubrication breakdown or migration. This is an expensive repair as the lens needs to be substantially disassembled.)

4) Check for obvious optical and mechanical issues. (Haze, fungus, impact damage, etc.)

5) Mount the lens on a camera that is known to be working properly and take a series of photos at infinity and at around 5m, at all apertures.

(Use a fine grain film such as Kodak Ektar.)

Insure that the test scenes have sufficient detail in all four corners. Obviously the camera should be mounted on a sturdy tripod.

(It is also useful to take some photos with a "control" lens that is known to be adequately sharp.)

Have the film scanned during development, 3000x2000 is adequate.

Verify that the photos are adequately sharp across the image field. A substandard lens will be VERY obvious.

FWIW, I have a 35mm F2 and two 35mm F2.8 lenses. My F2 is a dud, and my F2.8's are at best, mediocre. However, some individuals have reported that their 35 F2 lenses are reasonably sharp.
 
I have the 35/2.8 and it's not that good, but not too bad either. It is less contrasty than the 35-70/3.5-4.5 but it doesn't have any apparent distortion. Like all OM Zuikos, it likes a lens hood.

My 35-105 'Zuiko' zoom is better at 35 than the prime but it's bigger and almost a stop slower.

I was hoping the 35mm would be a perfect walk around lens but I find the 28's are just so much nicer.

I've decided to just keep an XA or MJU in my pocket for 35mm and keep one of the better Zuikos on the OM du jour.
 
Thanks for the help guys. While it is good advice, I was looking for something maybe a little more specific like serial numbers. Or maybe I should just stick to using my Hexar for 35mm... But that adds another camera to the bag, which I don't like.

Also, if anyone could help me with my other problem (posted two posts above), I'd be very grateful
 
Tijmendal said:
Thanks for the help guys. While it is good advice, I was looking for something maybe a little more specific like serial numbers. Or maybe I should just stick to using my Hexar for 35mm... But that adds another camera to the bag, which I don't like.

Also, if anyone could help me with my other problem (posted two posts above), I'd be very grateful
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the closest advice I can give you is look for a 35/2 with "Made in Japan" spelled out on the front of the lens (like the last 50/1.8).

still no guarantee.

I personally think that even when sharp the drawing style of both of these lenses is pretty mediocre. seems like kind of a waste with an excellent close/mid-range performing 28/2 and a world class 50/2 on either side of it but that's just IMO.
 
Tijmendal said:
Picked up an OM4-ti for 75€. It's in pretty good condition as far as I can tell, except for a lot of paint loss. Mostly on the back door, so I've already swapped out the back door with an old OM-1's back door I had laying around for parts. I don't like the film-tab holder anyway.
The one thing that doesn't seem to be working too well is the film advance lever. It's a little rough. I have the same problem on my OM-2 (though it's a little worse on the OM-2 than on the OM-4). I was wondering if this might have something to do with the use of a Winder? The OM-2 has been used with a Winder 2 quite a lot before I purchased it (or at least the seller told me he exclusively used it with the winder. I don't know how many rolls he shot with it). The OM-4ti I just bought has evidently been used heavily and for all I know it might have been with a winder.
Is anyone familiar with this problem? The two OM-1's I own have buttery, buttery smooth film advance and I can't imagine they have ever been CLA'd.



Also: I want to try a 35mm. I know the conensus in general is that both the f/2.8 and f/2 version aren't really good. But I have heard some later copies can be good. What should I be looking for?
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There is another thread here about putting a om1 back to a om4. There seems to be a problem with the pressure plate if you do this. It doesn't work.

As far as I know, the film advance on the om1 is the best, better than on the later models. Maybe other materials used.

About the 35's, nothing wrong with the 2.8.
 
Today I have every reason to kill myself....... ;-)

I passed the flea market in Luxembourg City this morning and I saw an OM1 on a stall.

NO, I said to myself, I won't succumb to the temptation, no, never ever any more.....

Then I turned back and took a look, rather clean outside, fired OK when I tried...... and I put it back without even asking foer the price.

And now my daughter got home, a friend of hers bought an AE-1 from the guy....... and the price for the OM1 was 15 f....g Euros. Flea market's over now.

Call me the world's biggest imbecile now please.

Sorry, had to ger that out of my system.

Over and out
 
Merlijn53 said:
There is another thread here about putting a om1 back to a om4. There seems to be a problem with the pressure plate if you do this. It doesn't work.

As far as I know, the film advance on the om1 is the best, better than on the later models. Maybe other materials used.
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This has been my experience too, but the film advance on the OM-4 is just poor. And on the OM-2 it's simply bad. There's no way either of those camera's film advance is actually like that. I at least can't image. I'll go by my local analog specialty shop and have them look at it.
 
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