x-ray
Veteran
I've found L110 to go bad within a couple of months once the bottle has been opened. Fresh it's just as good as HC110.
I purchased 6 rolls of Bergger 400 and processed as recommended in Rodinal and HC110 B. I still have more testing to do but so far I'm going to stick with HP5. Rodinal gives a fairly noticeable grain and HC110 looks much better but I'm not liking the tonality as much as HP5. For a fair test I wet printed the negs on Bergger warm tone glossy FB.
Talus
pan sin sal
I just started developing on my own this year. I started with D-76, then used Diafine for when I pushed my Tri-X to 1600 and now have gone back to shooting the Tri-X at box speed and have returned to D-76.
While I'm pretty green, I'm a quick study and there are a couple of thoughts that come to mind that haven't been asked. How often do you shoot? How much film do you shoot? How often do you develop? Do you like grain? (I'm guessing no because you're shooting the FP4+ @125). Also are you going to be making darkroom prints or do you have a digital scanner?
These kinds of things also make a difference. I, for example, shoot every week and develop maybe 4 rolls on the weekend. I made a gallon of D-76 and try to use it up fairly quickly as the developer can go bad. Kodak says that it'll keep for 1 month in a larger container with space for air. Now, I keep it in a 1 gallon jug and don't split it up into smaller containers as many others do. I did have to throw out a previous batch because I made it and then switched to Diafine for a few months in-between. I wasn't sure if the first batch of D-76 was still good, so I tossed it. It's small things, but you need to mix the D-76 and usually let it stand overnight, then divide it out if you don't think you'll use it quickly. It's a bit more work, not a lot, but still a few extra steps. I'm thinking about giving HC110 a go after I finish up this batch of D-76 for the reasons mentioned above.
Also, I haven't made any darkroom prints yet, but from what I've read, developers also act differently when producing negatives for prints vs negatives for scanning. I can't speak any more to it, but it's also something to think about.
May be a bit overkill for a simple question, but it's something to think about.
While I'm pretty green, I'm a quick study and there are a couple of thoughts that come to mind that haven't been asked. How often do you shoot? How much film do you shoot? How often do you develop? Do you like grain? (I'm guessing no because you're shooting the FP4+ @125). Also are you going to be making darkroom prints or do you have a digital scanner?
These kinds of things also make a difference. I, for example, shoot every week and develop maybe 4 rolls on the weekend. I made a gallon of D-76 and try to use it up fairly quickly as the developer can go bad. Kodak says that it'll keep for 1 month in a larger container with space for air. Now, I keep it in a 1 gallon jug and don't split it up into smaller containers as many others do. I did have to throw out a previous batch because I made it and then switched to Diafine for a few months in-between. I wasn't sure if the first batch of D-76 was still good, so I tossed it. It's small things, but you need to mix the D-76 and usually let it stand overnight, then divide it out if you don't think you'll use it quickly. It's a bit more work, not a lot, but still a few extra steps. I'm thinking about giving HC110 a go after I finish up this batch of D-76 for the reasons mentioned above.
Also, I haven't made any darkroom prints yet, but from what I've read, developers also act differently when producing negatives for prints vs negatives for scanning. I can't speak any more to it, but it's also something to think about.
May be a bit overkill for a simple question, but it's something to think about.
roscoetuff
Well-known
Dan: Thanks for the info on your decision. Not too different from where I am at the moment. I like the results, but the question is more one of whether there isn't another developer that at high dilution and minimal agitation might produce similar. FWIW, I don't see XTOL or D76 used this way, nor a lot of others. So that narrows the field. I have a bottle of Rodinal, and now that I have some MF film, maybe it's time to give it a whirl.
For 35mm, everyone says Rodinal results in too much grain, but I rarely see that comment parsed relative to the level of dilution the folks are using. Maybe with high dilution and low agitation it might do the same? Will have to try it out.
For 35mm, everyone says Rodinal results in too much grain, but I rarely see that comment parsed relative to the level of dilution the folks are using. Maybe with high dilution and low agitation it might do the same? Will have to try it out.
presspass
filmshooter
Another flexible mix-it-yourself developer is D-23. Works well with Tri-X, HP5+, Kentmere, and TMax, all at 400. Haven't tried it with either of the Delta films or FP4+. I use it replenished or diluted 1:1 or 1:3. Easy to mix - Metol and Sodium Sulfite - and lasts well in brown glass bottles. Diluted 1:3 it is a good compensating developer.
Peter_S
Peter_S
Another vote for ID-11 / D76.
Though Tetenal Ultrafin T-Plus is versatile too.
Though Tetenal Ultrafin T-Plus is versatile too.
Bill Clark
Veteran
Thought I'd mention what helps me with D-76 and others for storage lasting a long time.
I use empty 2 liter soda bottles to store stock solutions. So 2 bottles will work for 1 gallon (3.8 liters = 1 gallon) of D-76 with a wee bit of a xtra room in one of the bottles. I use either the clear or, in the case of soda like 7-up, the bottles are green. I keep them underneath the sink in the bathroom. The cap is a nice feature as it pretty completely seals off the bottle and can be used over and over. I have found the plastic doesn't react with the chemicals. Have D-76 stock two years old and still works fine.
Hope this helps you.
I use empty 2 liter soda bottles to store stock solutions. So 2 bottles will work for 1 gallon (3.8 liters = 1 gallon) of D-76 with a wee bit of a xtra room in one of the bottles. I use either the clear or, in the case of soda like 7-up, the bottles are green. I keep them underneath the sink in the bathroom. The cap is a nice feature as it pretty completely seals off the bottle and can be used over and over. I have found the plastic doesn't react with the chemicals. Have D-76 stock two years old and still works fine.
Hope this helps you.
Talus
pan sin sal
Good idea Bill. Easy solution to the problem.
kxl
Social Documentary
IMO there is no one BEST developer for the variety of films you listed, e.g., TMAX developer works best for TMY. I primarily use Neopan 400
(Yes I stocked up), Tri-x and HP5+, and for these, HC-110 and XTOL have been great. D-76 would have worked as well. I do agree that D76 is a good all-around developer.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
And I am now switching to the green 7-UP bottles like Bill is. In my case, I'm using the half-liter bottles, since that's what I buy. Switching over from using green scotch bottles, mainly thinking the caps might seal bottle than corks. The corks have been good, though. I believe that I can squeeze the plastic just enough to bring the liquid level right to the top, eliminating all the air.
Bill Clark
Veteran
You'll find the bottles and cap rinse out well. Then I put them on a shelf/table by a window and let the sun dry them out. Cap off until it's dry!
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
Wow, there is a lot of information here, thanks to all.
I may have to try to convince my son to narrow his use to HP5, once all the others are used up, and me to FP4, and try to run a while with the D-76 and see how it goes.
I don't wet print, it is scan and inkjet prints for me.
His is mostly online showings, and supplying files to his friends & customers.
I may have to try to convince my son to narrow his use to HP5, once all the others are used up, and me to FP4, and try to run a while with the D-76 and see how it goes.
I don't wet print, it is scan and inkjet prints for me.
His is mostly online showings, and supplying files to his friends & customers.
KenR
Well-known
Hc110
Hc110
HC110 is my go to developer. It may not be the best at anything, but it is OK at everything. And, after a layoff of a couple of months, on a Sunday night at 9PM it is there for me, and has never let me down no matter what the color of the liquid is.
Yes it can be too active with some sub-5 minute times. That is why you have to dilute it more. For 400Tmax, I use 1:63 (dilution H) for 11 minutes at 68 degrees, rather than 5.5 minutes with dilution B. Digital Truth has the Massive Film Developing Table that lists alternative dilutions to help tame HC110.
Hc110
HC110 is my go to developer. It may not be the best at anything, but it is OK at everything. And, after a layoff of a couple of months, on a Sunday night at 9PM it is there for me, and has never let me down no matter what the color of the liquid is.
Yes it can be too active with some sub-5 minute times. That is why you have to dilute it more. For 400Tmax, I use 1:63 (dilution H) for 11 minutes at 68 degrees, rather than 5.5 minutes with dilution B. Digital Truth has the Massive Film Developing Table that lists alternative dilutions to help tame HC110.
roscoetuff
Well-known
TFX-2 Times for Acros/FP4/HP5
TFX-2 Times for Acros/FP4/HP5
Message removed to a new thread.
TFX-2 Times for Acros/FP4/HP5
Message removed to a new thread.
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ACullen
Well-known
I'm finding Ilfosol 3 to be very convenient developer. I've found it works well with FP4 , HP5 and Delta 100, all at box speed. Dilutions 1:9 or 1:14 seem equally good.
Ilford states that Ilfosol 3 is an equivalent to Xtol. My impression is that it has better accutance but that's an early impression. Few posters here mention Ilfosol 3 , so I guess mine is a minority view.
Ilford states that Ilfosol 3 is an equivalent to Xtol. My impression is that it has better accutance but that's an early impression. Few posters here mention Ilfosol 3 , so I guess mine is a minority view.
Chris101
summicronia
HC 110 has a very linear time/contrast ratio that I fins work well with my simplistically linear exposure/development time reciprocity scheme. I tried a dozen different chemistries, and HC110 proved to be the most linear, and thus the easiest for me to use to control contrast with development.
roscoetuff
Well-known
ACullen: You're right. Few mention it. I'm thinking of it as a liquid chem substitute for XTOL. Since I don't like to mix the dusts, I think of it fairly often, too. Haven't gone there yet ...but that day is coming (probably when the HC-110 runs out).
Skiff
Well-known
Make your life easy:
You can continue to use Rodinal.
But, very important:
Don't use it with stand development, because that gives the worst results with Rodinal!
Rodinal delivers the best results used with its original Agfa agitation rhythm (first minute permanent, then one inversion in a 30 seconds cycle).
And with the dilutions of 1+50, 1+75 and / or 1+100. The dilution is depending on the film and the object contrast. And the shape of the characteristic curve you want.
But this flexibility in solutions to match different films and contrasts is one of the strengths of Adox Rodinal.
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
What about developing 2 different films together?
FP4+ & Pancro 400 together, shot at box speed
The massive dev. chart says:
D76 stock solution, 8.5 min for Ilford and 9 min for the Pancro.
Likewise in Rodinal 1+25: Ilford 9 min, Pancro 8 min.
Which would be the more forgiving
FP4+ & Pancro 400 together, shot at box speed
The massive dev. chart says:
D76 stock solution, 8.5 min for Ilford and 9 min for the Pancro.
Likewise in Rodinal 1+25: Ilford 9 min, Pancro 8 min.
Which would be the more forgiving
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Develop them individually for the correct times. Sloppy practices mean low quality results. Like my photo professor in college always said: "If you're not going to do it right, don't bother to start. You'll be wasting your time and money."
huddy
Well-known
I'd echo what lots of folks have said, try to focus to 1-2 films and 1 developer for at least several months to a year. I'd shoot a film/developer combo at least 20 rolls and take good notes of what you like/didn't like and think about how you can work with that combination to improve prior to swapping things up.
Like many others, I spent some time on the try everything rollercoaster eventually was at a standstill for shooting/developing due to my schedule. I started using Cal's (Calzone) Diafine slacker's brew with 35mm and 120 Tri-X (400-1250) and Acros (100-160) as my two go two films and I haven't looked back.
See this thread if you're interested in more info.
Like many others, I spent some time on the try everything rollercoaster eventually was at a standstill for shooting/developing due to my schedule. I started using Cal's (Calzone) Diafine slacker's brew with 35mm and 120 Tri-X (400-1250) and Acros (100-160) as my two go two films and I haven't looked back.
See this thread if you're interested in more info.