Point and Shoot AF Classics - post yours

Samsung Evoca 70-S

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A set from the 70-S:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjtDSfTS

Canon Sure Shot Z135:

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a set from the Z135:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjsBQ1NR

Samsung Maxima 1350Ti

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a set from the 1350Ti:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjsBPHbi

Samsung Maxima Zoom 80 GLM (a tiny little thing)

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a set from the 80 GLM:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjstYHFw

Fujifilm Big Viewfinder/Clear Shot Date 60AF

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a set from 60AF

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjsBeYhr

Fuji Tele Wide DL155

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a set from the DL155

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjt7hWG3
 
I haven't used this one yet, but it sure is pretty.

Vivitar Tec 35, 35/2.8 lens. It's a big camera, similar in size to the Ricoh FF90, manual ISO, and seems solidly built. I haven't been able to find out much about it at all. No photo samples, no tech specs, no actual manufacturer, nada. I guess I'll just have to load it up and see what comes out.

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Nice thread and some real neat cams!

I found a Konica AF3 at a garage sale. The meter lights up when I put batteries in but the film wind on won't move. I guess the shutter might be blocked. :(
 
I like that Vivitar. Very nice. I've got a broken Vivitar 35EM which would be a hell of a camera if it was working. unfortunately they seem to always show up broke. Metal bodied with a swing lever that brings the lens out and back in. Displays the aperture and shutter speed in the display. When you can find a working example that is :)
 
I think the Ricoh FF-9 is a classic. It's pig-ugly by modern standards, with nasty hard plastics, and has a modest specification (35mm 4 element lens). However, it takes very sharp pictures, the flash is powerful compared to a modern digicam and for some reason it nearly always avoids red-eye without a pre-flash - maybe because the flash isn't too close to the lens. Best of all, the active IR autofocus means it focuses instantly, even in total darkness; ideal for outdoors at night or in murky pubs. Load it with Kodak BW400CN (downrate it to ISO 200 by hacking the DX code) and you'll get 37 good shots from a roll.

I briefly had a Ricoh R1 (not GR1!) and it was utter rubbish - it went back for a refund. Massive distortion, overexposure, nasty to use.
 
I like my Pentax Espio Mini(UC-1). f3.2 lens is not the fastest but one little feature it has more than compensates. In low light or situations where it is difficult to acquire focus lock, it automatically goes in to spot metering mode. This little beauty has given me indoor none flash where other cams with f2.8 lenses still needed flash. Operable one handed. Very nice. Capable of some top quality photo's too.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/pentaxespiomini/pool/
 
I briefly had a Ricoh R1 (not GR1!) and it was utter rubbish - it went back for a refund. Massive distortion, overexposure, nasty to use.
I also had an R1 briefly as well. Lovely to look at, but mine had a dead LED, and the autowind sounded like a cat in a meat grinder.
 
I had a R1s as well purchased secondhand-decided to get rid of it many months ago. Lovely design, but mine didn't work OK.

Hope I can come across one secondhand again but in working condition.
 
Yashica Zoomtec 90 Super:


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Yashica 38-90mm zoom lens

Has step zoom and focal lengths printed on the lens itself. 1992

Olympus Superzoom 160G:


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Olympus 38-160mm zoom lens

Quite compact yet has a 38-160mm zoom lens (with ED elements)

Ricoh RZ-728:


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Ricoh 28-70mm wide-angle zoom lens

Has macro focus button on the front
Fujifilm DL-1000 Zoom:


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Fujinon 35-80mm zoom lens

Focal length is shown in the status panel and has HG backlit portrait/portrait/macro modes
 
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Does anyone else like APS? I've several that can hold their own against other, bigger ones. The Contax Tix springs to mind immediately but there are others by Konica (Z2 and Z3) and Kodak (T550) that no one seems to want and so you can pick them up for pennies.

And, back to 35mm, has any one a Yashica Minitec super? I ask as I've one in the heap I've not tested. And this seems a good thread to pick up opinions of these neglected but usually pretty good P&S's.

Regards, David
 
Does anyone else like APS? I've several that can hold their own against other, bigger ones. The Contax Tix springs to mind immediately but there are others by Konica (Z2 and Z3) and Kodak (T550) that no one seems to want and so you can pick them up for pennies...

I wouldn't mind APS simply for the ease of use. Walking down the street, you run out of frames, open the camera and pop in a new cartridge. The only problem and the reason you get the APS cameras so cheap is that APS has been long since discontinued. Even if you can find film (which is usually expired) it's hard to find anywhere to develop it. At least where I live.
 
And, back to 35mm, has any one a Yashica Minitec super? I ask as I've one in the heap I've not tested. And this seems a good thread to pick up opinions of these neglected but usually pretty good P&S's.

There is an interesting thread here. No idea whether they are right or wrong though..
 
Thanks folks but I'm worried now as I can still buy it in several shops (Fuji or Kodak, x25 or x40 and ASA 200 or 400) and have several APS cameras in the heap that passes for a collection. (And I can't make up my mind between keeping the Nikon Pronea or the Minolta S-1 and have added a vote to the list for the Nikon.)

As for the flickr post, as you say it adds to the mystery. The comment on lenses' focal lengths makes me wonder about several where I've guessed one maker rounds up and one rounds down and they are the same lens!

Regards, David
 
My latest addition. I've already loaded it with film. Let's see how it compare against the T-4.

t3d.jpg

This is the one with the angle finder on top, right? My stepfather bought one of these during our trip to the US back in 1993, and I remember how awesome I thought this camera was :) Also captured some great memories of the trip!
 
I like that Vivitar. Very nice. I've got a broken Vivitar 35EM which would be a hell of a camera if it was working. unfortunately they seem to always show up broke. Metal bodied with a swing lever that brings the lens out and back in. Displays the aperture and shutter speed in the display. When you can find a working example that is :)
I thought the Vivitar was broken, it would load film but the flash would not charge, and the shutter would not fire. But then I remembered a thing called "dry capacitor syndrome", and let the camera sit with batteries in and the clamshell open for several hours, and it suddenly sprang to life. The pop-up flash is not spring loaded, but motor driven. Very robotic, but quite noisy. The auto-wind and shutter are very quiet, though, and focus seems fast.
 
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