Polaroid Thread

dallard said:
That's a steal! I've got to go to more swap meets.
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Yeah, well it ate another pack of film, this time ruining the whole lot, so its ultimately cost me more then $10 if you care to look at it that way. I removed the spring in its entirety prior to installing the film this time, but the timer unit is clearly putting too much pressure of the flimsy plastic cartridge the Fuji stuff comes in. Looks like I'll have to do some additional surgery.
 
Call me crazy, I have never had an issue with the springs. Are you sure it doesn't have anything to do with how you're removing the film? Of the countless packs of film I have shot, the darkslide ripped on me exactly once. This is over cameras with and without the timer.
 
pdexposures said:
Call me crazy, I have never had an issue with the springs. Are you sure it doesn't have anything to do with how you're removing the film? Of the countless packs of film I have shot, the darkslide ripped on me exactly once. This is over cameras with and without the timer.
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I'm not sure. But I don't know any other way to do it. The only other pack film camera I've used prior to this was a Colorpack III. They load similarly but not exactly the same I guess, so I checked my 360's instruction manual before installing the first pack. When I pull the white tab to reveal the film tab, the white is just ripping off, either with very gentle tugging or a stronger yank. Sometimes it has revealed enough of the film tab (is this the darkslide?) that I could get my finger to it to pull it through but I've had mixed results. The last pack tore a white tab and then I somehow ended up pulling two frames through and leaving behind a chemical pack that tore open at the rollers making a huge mess. Prior to that I had been able to wrestle out the first few frames and then it seemed like the last 6 or 7 worked more normally with the last few coming through with ease and spreading the chemicals perfectly even.
 
My 180 and 250 had similar misbehaviour with the Fuji film packs until I got rid of the springs inside the camera back.

Carefully checking close focus tests show that there is no effect on the film pack seating properly at the film plane without the springs. The paper tabs are a lot easier to pull out now, and they don't tear anymore.
 
I used my Hasselblad with the Polaroid back a few times. I was quite pleased with results, but the frame size was disappointing.

So I snapped a Landcamera 350 with some accessory. I modified the battery compartment to take CR123 and cleaned the camera a bit. Got Fuji FP-100C yesterday, so I hit the road to test it. The first pictures came out quite nice.


MG [Polaroid Test-Shot] by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr


Jeep Cherokee Grand Wagoneer [Polaroid] by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr

Polaroid Landcamera 350
Fuji FP-100C
Canon Canoscan 8800F
​
 
I'm trying the new Impossible Project PX70 COOL film. It's great, the pictures look like paintings:

5c3ad2b5.jpg
 
Penzes said:
I used my Hasselblad with the Polaroid back a few times. I was quite pleased with results, but the frame size was disappointing.

So I snapped a Landcamera 350 with some accessory. I modified the battery compartment to take CR123 and cleaned the camera a bit. Got Fuji FP-100C yesterday, so I hit the road to test it. The first pictures came out quite nice.


MG [Polaroid Test-Shot] by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr
I

Jeep Cherokee Grand Wagoneer [Polaroid] by Istvan Penzes, on Flickr

Polaroid Landcamera 350
Fuji FP-100C
Canon Canoscan 8800F
​
Click to expand...
Lovely colours.
 
I might have just bought a Polaroid 250 to replace my 450 which has a dodgy flash sync
I'm also really interested to try this big ol' M3 flash...
More pics when it arrives - it's got the original case, close up and portrait attachments, cloud and UV filters, self timer and cable release... the works! I already have all the accessories (for the 450) so I'll be selling them soon (cable release, portrait kit, uv filter, cloud filter)

il_fullxfull210323131.jpg
 
I just got a Polaroid Land Camera 100 (all the fixiin's with it too, flash, bulbs, cable release, pleather case, leather strap) and have been shooting with the Fuji FP-3000B, such a great film I might add, I love the contrast you get with it. I scan the negatives once they dry and invert with my scanner software, then do my adjustments in Lightroom 4. My question for you guys, did you repair any light leaks or just leave them for a more nostalgic look? I think I need to repair mine since it's fairly significant. Also how do you adjust the front lighten/darken knob to get an image that isn't overexposed? I've even tried turning the knob all the way to the dark setting and am still getting slightly overexposed images ( I correct it in Lightroom...) Here's an example of the light leak..

polaroid_test_2_by_randomav1-d50eqae.jpg
 
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