Post any scanned film image with name of scanner here

epson v700+ vuescan

ektar 100 developed with tetenal colortec

prova3200_zps5cc66ecd.jpg~original
 
35 mm FP4, scanned on a Nikon D3100 setup with an enlarger as light table.
The lens is the 18-55 DX zoom, set at 50mm, f22.
The scan is a little soft in the corners, I don't know how much of that is due to the lens, or just film curvature. I'm putting money aside for a micro nikkor.

U54266I1379006316.SEQ.4.jpg
 
Probably it's mostly the lens, but I found I got better corner results by shooting the film concave side towards the lens, then flipping it in Photoshop, later. You will also want to try f/8, or maybe f/11, to see how the lens works there. I can see the effects of a lens opening beyond optimum.
 
Probably it's mostly the lens, but I found I got better corner results by shooting the film concave side towards the lens, then flipping it in Photoshop, later. You will also want to try f/8, or maybe f/11, to see how the lens works there. I can see the effects of a lens opening beyond optimum.

Thanks! I've already pointed the emulsion toward the lens, the negative holder has 'anti-newton' glass towards the condenser, and an open frame towards the camera. A compromise between flatness and dust-control.

I will try and see what results I get at f11 and f8.

Surprised at how much I have learned (and unforgotten) with this set-up.

The diffraction effect might well be in the negative already. At the time, I was nuts for depth of field, I tried to shoot everything at f11 and f16. Also something I'd misheard from my father, who said the best f-stops were f8 and f11, but I'd forgotten he was talking about his mamiya C3 and a 75 mm lens.
 
Plustek 8100i Fuji Velvia 100.
Based on cost, it's a great Scanner for the $$$$ and Yes, there is a learning curve to get good scans.

10928673355_3f4dfaf791_b.jpg
 
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