Post your drum scans (aka the first official Drum Scanners thread)

Did they change any IC on the board?

Don't know honestly, some components in the sockets have Rev2 stickers on but those were maybe in before I sent it - I didn't mark down anything. If there's anything I can distinguish there are some fresher soldering markings on the board, I wouldn't risk to replicate them on another board though since there can be other things I may not see :)
 
There is a guy on eBay that does 600mb scans with a Heidelberg drurm scanner. I used him a couple of times , very professional.

Where might I find this guy, I couldn't find him?

Also what are some places recommended for good somewhat affordable drum scanning, in U.S.?

Maybe that's somewhere in this thread and I missed it, sorry.
 
Hi Margus, What developer used? Really nice tones..

I believe it was with the Kodak T-Max 1+4 developer. I really like Moersch chemistry in my darkroom printing, but never used his film chemistry so Finol is a developer I'd like to try as well.

Also what are some places recommended for good somewhat affordable drum scanning, in U.S.?

Google for drum scanning service, you'll find plenty in US. Although be warned: most of real high-end services (IT8 calibrated + wet-mounted drumscans on elite drum-scanners operated with skill) are nowhere near affordible in "common terms" though, but probably worth it for your best shots, IMHO.

If you're willing to put in some additional days of waiting then another way is to send film over the pond to EU for affordible drumscanning service. This will probably come out as much better deal, especially when you have bigger (10+ frames) amount you want to have drumscanned.

Margus
 
Where might I find this guy, I couldn't find him?

Also what are some places recommended for good somewhat affordable drum scanning, in U.S.?

Maybe that's somewhere in this thread and I missed it, sorry.


Type in Tango Drum Scan on Ebay.

Here is a few from me.

TangoDrumScanMinersCastle.jpg


Tango Drum Scan, Globuscope 4x5 with 65 f8, JML, Fuji Provia 100

TangoScan.jpg



Mamiya 7 with 43mm lens, Fuji Provia 100, Tango Drum Scan.
 
I managed to get both a 4000dpi and later a 6000dpi dry scan from a 35mm Negative this afternoon. I haven't done any post work on the 6000dpi scan but here is the image from the 4000dpi scan.

We are getting there slowly, still can't get the scanner to be seen in OS-X but it seems to be working better in OS9.2 with CQ5.2.

From the first roll through the M4 with a 35mm f1.7 Ultron.


Ernesettle & Tamar Valley from rear of St. Budeaux Parish Church. by Ed Bray, on Flickr
 
Finally the thread is kicking into life :)

I can truly recommend polycarbonate foil - less grain, nice microcontrast. Difference between wet/dry is subtle (2000 dpi):

Yes, wet mounting is almost always nicer IMHO.


Mamiya 7 with 43mm lens, Fuji Provia 100, Tango Drum Scan.

That Mamiya shot is just awesome!


I managed to get both a 4000dpi and later a 6000dpi dry scan from a 35mm Negative this afternoon. I haven't done any post work on the 6000dpi scan but here is the image from the 4000dpi scan.

We are getting there slowly, still can't get the scanner to be seen in OS-X but it seems to be working better in OS9.2 with CQ5.2.

From the first roll through the M4 with a 35mm f1.7 Ultron.

Yep, you're definitely getting there Ed. Personaly I love the grain, but if you don't you can do much smoother than the scan from the same shot above even dry-mounted: you can open up the aperture (use the sharpening button in CQ and select aperture), AP3 shoud create a "smoother" scan (less detail, but you can sharpen up in PP) at those 3500-5000 ppi range of resolutions.

Mastering wet-mounting will open a new scanning world for you as well.

Mine works better in OS9 as well, crashes a lot in OSX and I'm still working on the good card+computer combo for the OSX, annoying as hell.
 
Stripes in shadows are typical for newer control board (serial ca. >200).
 

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