Post your foveon DP & SD1m Images

[FA Limited]

One of the things I have found is that auto white balance on these cameras (sd or dp) are not as good as my Nikon or Fuji cameras 🙁.

When I looked at the original harder I saw some areas where there were purple shading as well (just did not notice it). So what I tried was to change the white balance which was auto to something else. When I applied daylight, it turned out to cause the same issue. Next I tried shade since I had such a wide angle and took the shot where there was also a lot of shade around me. To my eye it looks better, but as I said I am slightly color blind..

Anyway the blue is not as deep, but no purple.

Fuji awb is awesome, it is almost never fooled! I do wish spp had temp and tint controls instead of just presets and dropper.

Must say the purple looked much worse initially on a bad monitor. On my ipad it is barely noticeable. I think the original one is better.

 

[GaryLH]

Fuji awb is awesome, it is almost never fooled! I do wish spp had temp and tint controls instead of just presets and dropper.

Must say the purple looked much worse initially on a bad monitor. On my ipad it is barely noticeable. I think the original one is better.

I like the look of the original better myself. Where I found the purplish was not really noticeable until I really looked hard.

I played around more w/ a really bad white balance problem on a different shot in Aperture white balance controls. It s really weird how it goes wonky every once in a while. The way the sd1 is happening, I have never seen on my dp. I am beginning to wonder if the sd1 has got an intermittent type of problem. Anyway I will figure this out soon.

Anyway thanks for input.

Gary

 

[dfatty]

One thing I wish they could do in a firmware update is to give the option of having the lens stay in it's previous focusing position as you take your next photo ... my OMD had this and I think it's sensible.

I don't think the focusing is particularly slow it's just that the lens seems to want to go through it's complete range every time you take a pic.

i think you can move the AF to the AEL button, in which case the focus won't change between shots. i use that arrangement on dslrs but didn't find it so comfortable on the sigma. i could see using it on a tripod though.

there's also something called AF limit mode which supposedly will limit the travel, but i've never tried it.

 

[Keith]

i think you can move the AF to the AEL button, in which case the focus won't change between shots. i use that arrangement on dslrs but didn't find it so comfortable on the sigma. i could see using it on a tripod though.

there's also something called AF limit mode which supposedly will limit the travel, but i've never tried it.

I use the AE button for focus ... I think that was the first setting I changed on the camera and I definitely find it better. I also tried that focus limiting setting and it made a marginal difference ... it restricts close focus to about a meter I think.

 

[dfatty]

I use the AE button for focus ... I think that was the first setting I changed on the camera and I definitely find it better. I also tried that focus limiting setting and it made a marginal difference ... it restricts close focus to about a meter I think.

about AE button for focus, doesnt that keep the lens in the same position for the next shot if you just hit the shutter and not AE for the next shot? or perhaps you mean the next shot starts AF from the last position without reracking. if that's it you're right, that would be an improvement. iirc that was done with a firmware fix in the earlier ep-x bodies, so it might be possible for the sigmas.

 

[Keith]

about AE button for focus, doesnt that keep the lens in the same position for the next shot if you just hit the shutter and not AE for the next shot? or perhaps you mean the next shot starts AF from the last position without reracking. if that's it you're right, that would be an improvement. iirc that was done with a firmware fix in the earlier ep-x bodies, so it might be possible for the sigmas.

Yes ... once you lock focus with the AEL button it stays there until you unlock it with another press of the button. It's also quite useful for quickly setting a hyperfocal distance.

These Sigmas have quite a usage learning curve IMO which makes them interesting for a digital!

 

[FA Limited]

I like the look of the original better myself. Where I found the purplish was not really noticeable until I really looked hard.

I played around more w/ a really bad white balance problem on a different shot in Aperture white balance controls. It s really weird how it goes wonky every once in a while. The way the sd1 is happening, I have never seen on my dp. I am beginning to wonder if the sd1 has got an intermittent type of problem. Anyway I will figure this out soon.

Anyway thanks for input.

Gary

weird back home on my calibrated monitor it looks very purply as well but not so much on the ipad. i checked some of my own sky photos from my Sigma DP2M and it definitely does not have the purple tint.

 

[GaryLH]

weird back home on my calibrated monitor it looks very purply as well but not so much on the ipad. i checked some of my own sky photos from my Sigma DP2M and it definitely does not have the purple tint.

I have a calibrated iMac screen.. Wells as good as it gets given the price and a spider calibration device.

Anyway the only way I could fix it was the white balance change...at least on my display at cost of losing intensity.

Gary

 

[FA Limited]

I have a calibrated iMac screen.. Wells as good as it gets given the price and a spider calibration device.

Anyway the only way I could fix it was the white balance change...at least on my display at cost of losing intensity.

i'm on an HP with a colormunki ... maybe it's not you it's me 🙁 ...

have you tried the colour wheel to fix it to reduce the overall magenta hues?

i have noticed localized colour fringing as well. for example i took a picture of someone and the reflection of light from their dark hair fringed green. just some of the things we have to deal with i guess.

 

[GaryLH]

i'm on an HP with a colormunki ... maybe it's not you it's me 🙁 ...

have you tried the colour wheel to fix it to reduce the overall magenta hues?

i have noticed localized colour fringing as well. for example i took a picture of someone and the reflection of light from their dark hair fringed green. just some of the things we have to deal with i guess.

Not yet. Is that what u ave even using?

Gary

 

[FA Limited]

Not yet. Is that what u ave even using?

must say i don't get as much "purple" as you have
although the color wheel is also useful for cases where the basic WB controls are insufficient. a whibal card would be useful for the merrill in tough indoor conditions. i'm so used to bang on white balance on the x100.

 

[GaryLH]

must say i don't get as much "purple" as you have
although the color wheel is also useful for cases where the basic WB controls are insufficient. a whibal card would be useful for the merrill in tough indoor conditions. i'm so used to bang on white balance on the x100.

In terms of that particular picture, it was only in a couple of places and not that easy for me to notice on my monitor until I specifically looked for it btw. Jon has complained about it a lot though and it is always w/ shots that have a lot sky in it like this one.

Anyway will give the color a try.
Gary

 

[helen.HH]

Loved those TWO shots Keith....You deleted ;(
The Church & the Car amidst the Landscape...Meant to comment sooner
Loved the Processing , Very Painterly ..Cinematic

 

[Keith]

Loved those TWO shots Keith....You deleted ;(
The Church & the Car amidst the Landscape...Meant to comment sooner
Loved the Processing , Very Painterly ..Cinematic

I don't think I deleted anything Helen ... well I hope not. The car is a page or so back here in this thread and I think the church was posted in another thread. I'll repost the church pic here ... lovely old building in a little country town out the back of Brisbane. 🙂

 

[helen.HH]

Beautiful...Thanks for posting...yummy Good indeed !

 

[bk1970]

 

[Sapphie]

This thread is truly inspirational and I have reservations about even thinking about contributing. There is something utterly unique about the Foveon look. It shows a kind of reality, one that is so deep that it can be scary. Almost like a vivid dream and the images can evoke a sense of dreamworld too.

A couple I have previously posted at get dpi:

A Foveon Blue:

A mono via SPP:

Lee

 

[Sapphie]

This one is from Charmouth in Dorset, UK, with Lyme Regis across the bay. I was really struggling to see properly but I think it worked out. Even at this resolution you can make out the yachts on the horizon. At 100% you can see they are tack sharp and can even just about make out 'people' walking on 'the Cobb'.

Lee

 

[louisb]

In addition to the unique Foveon look, there is also the 'Classic Foveon Blue' colour mode (which Sapphie has used above). I find it interesting to experiment with this mode - it produces a look which I can only describe as 'Velvia on steroids'.

 

[Keith]

Starting to have a little fun with SPP now I understand it better ... thanks Gary. 🙂

1600 ISO in black and white raw mode processed with emphasis on the blue channel as per instructions in the link given by Gary...no noise reduction added in SPP (actually turned off) or ACDSee Pro 6 where it was only given a minor curve adjustment and resized for web.

This little camera blows me away!