Printing Proceedure

PatrickT

PatrickT

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It's been several years since I've last printed in the darkroom, but I just found out that the local college will let me do it for a small fee and now I'm interested again 🙂

So, a few questions of course.

First...paper reccomendation? I've always used RC paper, but would like to try Fiber perhaps..

Second..any links to point me to a printing procedure online? I'm aware of the general procedure, I just can't remember the times (time intervals for test strips, time in developer, fixer, washing, etc.

Many thanks 🙂
 
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Ilford Multigrade IV-FB isa good general purpose fiber base paper. Pick up a set of Ilford's Multigrade printing filters to change the contrast. The #2 filter is normal, start out with it and change to a lower or higher one if needed.

Is the school providing chemicals or are you?

Most print developers need 2 minutes for fiber base paper.

Stop bath 30 seconds. Fixer depends on the fixer they use.

If its the Kodak Powdered Fixer, it takes forever. I think 5 or 10 minutes. If they're smart, they're using Ilford rapid fix at the normal 1+4 dilution, which needs only 1 minute (with constant agitation) for Ilford Fiber papers. Buy the Ilford fixer if the school has you provide your own chemicals.

Wash a couple minutes then give 3 minutes in Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, then an hour wash.

That's it!
 
You might want to start with RC paper just to get back into the swing of things and then move on to FB...
All new boxes of photo paper should have easy to read instructions in them...
And like Chris said, a box of Contrast Filters, if the enlargers don't have color heads...
I like the Ilford papers in FB & RC...I also have some Kodak paper...most good camera supply stores should carry Ilford...
 
Thanks very much, that helps. You're right, I probably will start with RC paper as it seems "easier".

What times to get a basis for my exposure should I start with? In the past I've done a small test strip with three different exposures on it...if memory serves me correctly, I think it was 3, 6, and 9 seconds (but I could be way off). Does this seem right?
 
Exposure times will vary...and will change due to enlarging lens aperture, neg density, contrast filter and paper speed...
Now, these are times I use...with the lens aperture @ f8 or f11, filter @ 2, 2 1/2, or 3 with RC paper my time might range in the 3-7 seconds area...
I will start with a 3 second exposure on the whole test strip then reset the timer to 1 second and re-expose the strip adding maybe three more values to it with four complete values at 1 second intervals...develop it for the complete time recommended then evaluate it...even if too dark or too light...develop it for the full time...
Again, your times will vary but this is how I start...
I use a digital timer and it's so much easier to use than the old mechanical timer and you can repeat your times exactly versus the older timers...
 
A couple of things to consider.

Load negs with similar densities for contact printing. This way you can group your test strips/times together.
Don't forget to document the filter and lens aperture too.
Pay attention to where your test strips are placed on the easel. If unsure, do two or even three simultaneously.
It's time consuming as heck if starting from scratch. I'll be starting again next year if the stars align.🙂

IIRC, FB and RC times are a bit different and the look is definitely different.

Have fun.
 
I used to do 3, 6, 9, 12. etc each about an inch wide til I ran out of room on the paper. In other words, cover all but one inch, shoot 3 sec, move til two inches are uncovered, shoot 3 sec and so on. I don't do that anymore because my negs are pretty dialed in, so now my basic exposure is about 10 sec, give or take for the particular neg in question. I'm about to start back to FB paper. I'll be watching this thread, too.
 
also depends on enlargement factor / paper size. But just go with 3 second intervals and you'll know after the first try out if that is about right, too long or too short. Adjust as necessary.

Fibre paper is great but it takes a long time to dry. You can't put it through a processor or dryer which makes taking it home after a session in someone elses darkroom a pain. Use RC.
 
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I'm in college now for photography. I would imagine your darkroom should be set up similar to ours. We check out kits that include things like a filter set so you shouldn't need to buy your own. Also, the times for both RC and FB papers (and through the film developing) are labeled on all the developing trays, and they take care of the chemicals (school rules and all) so you should be good to go with that.

With developing film, my school uses Sprint Standard developer. I checked their web site and got a list of times for every compatible film from Sprint. When you find what developer your school uses, you should be able to do the same thing easy enough.

Good luck with it!
 
Thanks for all the input guys! I went over to the darkroom today and had a go at it. For the most part, it went really well and felt like I hadn't skipped a beat. Of course, I did make a few mistakes like forgetting to close down the aperture after focusing and such, but I definitely got some usable prints from it. More so, I enjoyed it a lot. I'll be going back soon!

IMG_1693.JPG
 
Yay! Printing is the best part of all of this.

If you decide to print fiber paper (and it IS worth it) get yourself a blotter style print drying book. Put your squeegeed prints in it and take them home. Leave them in the book over night in a warm place. The next day they will be dry or nearly dry, AND they will be flat!
 
Thanks guys.

Chris...where might I get one of these? I am planning on trying fiber paper (haven't used it before) and one of my concerns is the time to dry and the curling.
 
Thanks for the thread! I have also been thinking of starting up printing again after a 25 year hiatus ...

FWIW, a pro photographer friend of mine recently raved about 'Seagull' brand glossy paper. He said it's a good quality paper and does a wonderful job of rendering tones.
 
Camera stores sell the blotter books; you might have to order from someone like Freestyle that carries a lot of darkroom stuff.

I used to hang my fiber prints to dry. Clothespins at the top corners on the line, clothespins on the bottom corners. If you put two prints back to back, they take a long time to dry (overnight) but dry pretty flat and with no ripples (may be a slight curl, but thats better than ripples).
 
PatrickT said:
Thanks for all the input guys! I went over to the darkroom today and had a go at it. For the most part, it went really well and felt like I hadn't skipped a beat. Of course, I did make a few mistakes like forgetting to close down the aperture after focusing and such, but I definitely got some usable prints from it. More so, I enjoyed it a lot. I'll be going back soon!
Click to expand...

How did you put those black borders onto your prints?
 
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