Pro-2 with 35f2

You can let it show the histogram in the ovf. The histogram measures the whole scene, so you can adjust your exposure with the exposure compensation and take care of the highlights.
 
Xp2 is my first Fuji. I love it with the grip and 35F2. I must admit though that I am having more blown highlights than usual compared to the A7s but its likely to be operator error. Still learning how to deal with the highlights on the Xp2.

Take advantage of the Auto DR function. It will help retain highlights. Unfortunately, on the XP2 it will only go up to DR200 in auto where the XP1 would also move to DR400 when needed. You have to have ISO set at 400 or in AutoISO mode where the camera can set above 400 to use AutoDR. If you want DR400 you need to be at ISO800 or auto ISO capable of going above ISO800.

Shawn
 
i'm curious now...what do folks like in the xp2?


Dramatically faster to shoot, ERF mode, improved ergonomics, less need to use the menus due to more customizable controls, ARCOS simulation, faster shutter, electronic shutter, weather sealing, faster AF, more surefire AF, functioning AF-C, wifi and so on.


It also has loads of little tweaks and touches that improve the shooting experience compared to the XP1.

All in all it takes all the good of the XP1 and just gets out of the way much more.

About the only thing I like less on the XP2 vs the XP1 is that AutoDR now only goes to DR200.

Shawn
 
I have the XP2 and 35/2 jones bad! Not to step on the X100, but if Fuji launched a 23/2 like the 35/2 -oh boy, I'd be in trouble! While we are at it, how about a sweet little 60/2 to round it out?
 
Yeah I just read somewhere that I could use the DR function above 100. Will try that out. Thanks.

Take advantage of the Auto DR function. It will help retain highlights. Unfortunately, on the XP2 it will only go up to DR200 in auto where the XP1 would also move to DR400 when needed. You have to have ISO set at 400 or in AutoISO mode where the camera can set above 400 to use AutoDR. If you want DR400 you need to be at ISO800 or auto ISO capable of going above ISO800.

Shawn
 
My poor Df is sitting around not being used after getting this... ;)

I know what you mean, I've just replaced a load of work gear which went straight from the boxes into my Crumpler backpack without much of a second look. The reason, my XP2 arrived which married up to my 35 f2.

It's not necessarily a momentous leap forward in overall camera technology but it is now everything and more that I'd hoped for from my XP1. It reminds me of when I replaced my M8 with my M9. Make of that what you may.:)
 
Frank, I have the X-Pro1 and the 35/1.4. It's a really great combo.
I've heard good things about both their successors, the X-Pro2 and the 35/2.
The only limitations I feel with this kit are not having a long focal length (which is rather moot when discussing street shooting) and that the X-Pro1's focus abilities are not nearly as snappy as I've heard the X-Pro2 is. Capturing action while shooting RAW is pretty much impossible; JPG is faster but I don't normally shoot JPG.
The updated camera and lens combo must be really sweet! After having my X-Pro1 for a few months, I like it so much that I've considered upgrading to the X-Pro2, but I'm kinda jonesing for an M6 right now. :) Maybe in a year when the used prices come down...
 
2tigers

Keep in mind, there is no advantage to using DR > 100 for raw files.

That isn't correct. Setting DR to DR200 will give you 1 stop more highlights in the RAW file and DR400 will give you two stops. The file will also have EXIF set it it and most RAW converters will compensate for this automatically. You can see the different in exposure easily with RawDigger.

Essentially, DR200 meters are ISO400 (or above) but runs the sensor at half that ISO. DR400 meters at ISO800 but runs the sensor a 1/4 that ISO.

If you are shooting JPEG the camera then applies a tone curve to the file to bring the overall brightness of the image back up while also keeping the highlights. The RAW file is tagged in the EXIF and the raw converter will boost the whole file by 1 or 2 stops and it will have the ability to bring back the highlights.

Shawn
 
It's not necessarily a momentous leap forward in overall camera technology but it is now everything and more that I'd hoped for from my XP1. It reminds me of when I replaced my M8 with my M9. Make of that what you may.:)

Yes, perfect description. It's just a more mature version of the camera.
 
That isn't correct. Setting DR to DR200 will give you 1 stop more highlights in the RAW file and DR400 will give you two stops. The file will also have EXIF set it it and most RAW converters will compensate for this automatically. You can see the different in exposure easily with RawDigger.

Essentially, DR200 meters are ISO400 (or above) but runs the sensor at half that ISO. DR400 meters at ISO800 but runs the sensor a 1/4 that ISO.

If you are shooting JPEG the camera then applies a tone curve to the file to bring the overall brightness of the image back up while also keeping the highlights. The RAW file is tagged in the EXIF and the raw converter will boost the whole file by 1 or 2 stops and it will have the ability to bring back the highlights.

Shawn

I must disagree. For raw files, when DR is > 100 there is no benefit to the final dynamic range rendered during post production.

  1. DR > 100 means ISO must be above base ISO; the dynamic range of the data always decreases as ISO increases.
  2. DR > 100 automatically causes underexposure; decreasing exposure decreases the dynamic range of the data.
  3. The proprietary push/pull tone curve Fujifilm applies to in-camera JPEGs when DR is >100 can not be duplicated for raw files. How do you replicate an unknown tone curve?
  4. You can't "bring back" highlights you never recorded! The highlights are under exposed when the shutter was open and they will always be under exposed. Increasing their global brightness during JPEG rendering can not increase the signal-to-noise ratio. Fortunately the SNR for highlight regions is high so underexposure is not an issue. But shadow regions are underexposed by the same amount. This is an issue.

Some raw rendering programs use the embedded DR parameter and automatically increase the global brightness to compensate for the in-camera forced under exposure. Some don't. But the data files will always have less dynamic range compared to files where DR =100. The obvious exception where the EC dial is set to cancel the forced under exposure is moot. Just maximize exposure (see link below) based on your experience. It's simpler.

DR > 100 is very useful for people who enjoy the convenience of in-camera JPEGS. DR > 100 is a fail-proof, automatic method to selectively push shadow regions in-camera. But it can not render images that make full use of the camera data stream's inherent dynamic range.

If you want raw files that benefit from the maximum dynamic range of any camera's data stream, just follow Emil Martinec's (link). on how to maximize exposure.
 
I think you're probably disagreeing where actually you agree. Shooting with auto DR rather than forcing DR200 or DR400 gives the meter the ability to dial back 1 stop of exposure to help protect highlights. Exactly what you would do, albeit automated and less precise, if exposing manually and trying to maximise exposure and, consequently DR. Forcing DR200 or 400 at all times would be counter productive as it would necessarily reduce exposure and DR in some frames.

It's probably worth noting that the XP2 seems to have a more highlight biases curve than other digital cameras I've used, and enough total DR to still perform well in the shadows. I think it's a quite brilliant package.

Mike
 
I think you're probably disagreeing where actually you agree. Shooting with auto DR rather than forcing DR200 or DR400 gives the meter the ability to dial back 1 stop of exposure to help protect highlights. Exactly what you would do, albeit automated and less precise, if exposing manually and trying to maximise exposure and, consequently DR. Forcing DR200 or 400 at all times would be counter productive as it would necessarily reduce exposure and DR in some frames.

It's probably worth noting that the XP2 seems to have a more highlight biases curve than other digital cameras I've used, and enough total DR to still perform well in the shadows. I think it's a quite brilliant package.

Mike

Exactly. If you are saving highlights with the AutoDR you aren't loosing DR, you are capturing a different range of EV compared to loosing the highlights. You have that benefit with both RAW and JPEG. One could of course also do this by EC for RAW too.

Saying AutoDR does nothing for RAW is too simplistic. It absolutely effects what is capture in the RAW file and the advantage is that it is very fast and can be helpful in dynamic shooting with changing lighting conditions.

For JPEG shooting AutoDR (or DR200 or DR400) works better than EC in my experience as the DR setting adjusts the overall brightness of the JPEG.

Shawn
 
Whenever the analog signal-to-noise ratio decreases, the analog dynamic range of the signals before they are digitized decreases. The analog dynamic range is primarily determined by the datas' signal-to-noise ratio when the shutter is open.

Underexposure always generates signals with less SNR compared to the maximum or optimal exposure.

The goal is to record data from shadow regions with the highest possible SNR while retaining essential highlight information (uninteresting highlight regions should be clipped!).

As exposure decreases, the signal contributions from the low-light areas become similar to the camera's read noise (and other electronic noise sources). This determines the minimum signal level for the analog DR. The maximum signal level is limited by the sensor sites' full-well capacity.

At ISO 400 the meter recommends one decrease exposure. Then, after the shutter closes, the DC signals are amplified to increase the global brightness. The analog DR is essentially unchanged. However the ADC can clip due to over amplification of the highlights' signal levels. This is not overexposure. So shifting the EV range is not relevant.

Letting the camera increase ISO to 400 or 800 and decrease the exposure is convenient for JPEGs, but it is the exact opposite of what is required to take advantage of the camera's maximum possible analog dynamic range.
 
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