I've been using a Novoflex adaptor with a Nokton 35mm f/1.4 for a couple of days. I've found a couple problems and was hoping one of you other M-mount guys had found a useful solution.
Problem 1: When using the requisite Aperture priority mode in somewhat low light, the camera software always chooses a shutter speed of 1/30 while setting the ISO to the lowest possible value that will allow this shutter speed. This makes "sense," since Panasonic assumes most users will have an image stabilized lens mounted. But we're not "most users." Our M-mount lenses aren't stabilized and, with the 2x crop factor, they're actually short telephotos. Obviously, with my 35mm Nokton acting like a 70mm lens, I'd much prefer the camera choose a shutter speed in the 1/60 - 1/90 range, while bumping up the ISO to compensate. I can find no way to change the shutter speed from within Aperture Priority mode. Instead, I have to switch to Manual mode, set the desired shutter and bump up the ISO to compensate. By the time I've done this, the photo opportunity has gone away. It would be so much better if Panasonic issued a firmware update that would let an adapted lens user "program shift" the shutter speed in Aperture priority mode. If I could simply spin the front dial to increase the shutter speed, then the camera could simultaneously increase the ISO for me. That way, when the camera gives me a shutter speed of 1/30, I can quickly change it to 1/60 (or 1/90) and have the camera compensate with a higher ISO. Without having this feature, I'm missing a lot of shots (either because I'm switching into manual mode or I'm shooting with a shutter speed that's too low). Any of you other M-mount guys have a good solution?
Problem 2: I'm not really seeking a solution to this problem, so much as warning potential G1 buyers of another complication with M-Mount lenses: the distance scales on the M-mount lenses are useless. I instinctively knew they would be "off," but I had no idea they would be crazy off. For some reason, I thought there might be a linear conversion factor, which would allow me to still use the focus markings. That's not true. They're off logarithmically. For example, at a measured distance of 2M, the Nokton will display 1.1M. At a measured distance of 5M, the Nokton will display 2.2M. At a measured distance of 10M, the Nokton will display 2.9M. And, when focusing from my high-rise window at an object two full city blocks away, the Nokton displays a distance slightly under 5M! Needless to say, shoot-from-the-hip zone focusing is not really possible. I shot a LOT of drastically out of focus images before I figured this out.
Ultimately, I found the EVF focusing to work far better than I expected and, in general, have not missed too many shots because of it. I'm sure, as I have more time to practice, I'll get to know the "throw" of the Nokton's focus ring on the G1 body and will improve my 'hit rate' even further... if I could just fix that darned 1/30s default shutter speed problem!
-egor