Dave, I think you'll enjoy the effective 80/1.4 with the Nokton, a lot less coin than a 75 'lux. 
scho
Well-known
Dave, I think you'll enjoy the effective 80/1.4 with the Nokton, a lot less coin than a 75 'lux.
Can you post a shot taken with the 40 Nokton on the G1 at f/1.4? I'd like to see if the bokeh is as crazy as it is with the M8.
Thanks,
Carl
Yes, I have a Nokton shot that shows crazed bokeh...will post.
Focus only functions on lenses compatible with contrast-detect AF.
"Of course Olympus wants to expand the number of lenses that can be adapted to autofocus on the Micro Four Thirds cameras. Olympus lenses (even those that contrast AF on Olympus cameras) currently do not autofocus properly with this camera (the Micro G1), but Olympus is working on Firmware upgrades for these lenses. Also we are now working with Olympus to provide a joint firmware update service to ensure compatibility across the various different bodies and different lenses."
--- http://www.dpreview.com/news/0810/08100201_panasonicinterview.asp
Focus only functions on lenses compatible with contrast-detect AF.
"Of course Olympus wants to expand the number of lenses that can be adapted to autofocus on the Micro Four Thirds cameras. Olympus lenses (even those that contrast AF on Olympus cameras) currently do not autofocus properly with this camera (the Micro G1), but Olympus is working on Firmware upgrades for these lenses. Also we are now working with Olympus to provide a joint firmware update service to ensure compatibility across the various different bodies and different lenses."
--- http://www.dpreview.com/news/0810/08100201_panasonicinterview.asp
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Dralowid
Michael
Shame they put a faux pentaprism on the top!
Offer black and chrome (red and blue must be Panasonic a la carte!)
Flatten it off, put a big red spot on the front and we'd adopt as if it were one of our own!
Seriously though, this looks like a worthwhile bit of kit!
Michael
Offer black and chrome (red and blue must be Panasonic a la carte!)
Flatten it off, put a big red spot on the front and we'd adopt as if it were one of our own!
Seriously though, this looks like a worthwhile bit of kit!
Michael
Carl, this was one of the first test shots with the 40 when I got the M adapter. Nothing of value except it did remind me that M lenses don't focus all that close. Adapted SLR lenses are better in this regard on the G1 unless you carry around an extension ring.
Here is a slightly different view using a 50/1.8 AIS Nikkor pancake, focus is quite a bit closer. These weren't taken on the same day...
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scho
Well-known
Carl, this was one of the first test shots with the 40 when I got the M adapter. Nothing of value except it did remind me that M lenses don't focus all that close. Adapted SLR lenses are better in this regard on the G1 unless you carry around an extension ring.
Here is a slightly different view using a 50/1.8 AIS Nikkor pancake, focus is quite a bit closer. These weren't taken on the same day...
Thanks for posting the Nokton 40 shot. That is the same characteristic bokeh that I see on the M8 with this lens. Otherwise the Nokton is quite sharp and the compact design should make it a good walkabout lens for the G1.
Regards,
Carl
Yes, it's a good match for the G1. The bokeh on this lens varies dramatically depending on how far away the background is and what aperture.
Of course, there are those who say that adapted lenses will not look the same on the G1. Heh heh.
Of course, there are those who say that adapted lenses will not look the same on the G1. Heh heh.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
I wasn't even aware this lens existed until today. Now I want one so bad it hurts...
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back alley
IMAGES
that 20 looks sweet on the g1.
djonesii
Well-known
looks like the just added some lens elements to the adapter ring to the the 20
LOL!
Dave
LOL!
Dave
Peter G1G2
Established
Makes you wonder how BIG the difference in image quality between these two really is
See-through body cap.
egor
Member
I've been using a Novoflex adaptor with a Nokton 35mm f/1.4 for a couple of days. I've found a couple problems and was hoping one of you other M-mount guys had found a useful solution.
Problem 1: When using the requisite Aperture priority mode in somewhat low light, the camera software always chooses a shutter speed of 1/30 while setting the ISO to the lowest possible value that will allow this shutter speed. This makes "sense," since Panasonic assumes most users will have an image stabilized lens mounted. But we're not "most users." Our M-mount lenses aren't stabilized and, with the 2x crop factor, they're actually short telephotos. Obviously, with my 35mm Nokton acting like a 70mm lens, I'd much prefer the camera choose a shutter speed in the 1/60 - 1/90 range, while bumping up the ISO to compensate. I can find no way to change the shutter speed from within Aperture Priority mode. Instead, I have to switch to Manual mode, set the desired shutter and bump up the ISO to compensate. By the time I've done this, the photo opportunity has gone away. It would be so much better if Panasonic issued a firmware update that would let an adapted lens user "program shift" the shutter speed in Aperture priority mode. If I could simply spin the front dial to increase the shutter speed, then the camera could simultaneously increase the ISO for me. That way, when the camera gives me a shutter speed of 1/30, I can quickly change it to 1/60 (or 1/90) and have the camera compensate with a higher ISO. Without having this feature, I'm missing a lot of shots (either because I'm switching into manual mode or I'm shooting with a shutter speed that's too low). Any of you other M-mount guys have a good solution?
Problem 2: I'm not really seeking a solution to this problem, so much as warning potential G1 buyers of another complication with M-Mount lenses: the distance scales on the M-mount lenses are useless. I instinctively knew they would be "off," but I had no idea they would be crazy off. For some reason, I thought there might be a linear conversion factor, which would allow me to still use the focus markings. That's not true. They're off logarithmically. For example, at a measured distance of 2M, the Nokton will display 1.1M. At a measured distance of 5M, the Nokton will display 2.2M. At a measured distance of 10M, the Nokton will display 2.9M. And, when focusing from my high-rise window at an object two full city blocks away, the Nokton displays a distance slightly under 5M! Needless to say, shoot-from-the-hip zone focusing is not really possible. I shot a LOT of drastically out of focus images before I figured this out.
Ultimately, I found the EVF focusing to work far better than I expected and, in general, have not missed too many shots because of it. I'm sure, as I have more time to practice, I'll get to know the "throw" of the Nokton's focus ring on the G1 body and will improve my 'hit rate' even further... if I could just fix that darned 1/30s default shutter speed problem!
-egor
Problem 1: When using the requisite Aperture priority mode in somewhat low light, the camera software always chooses a shutter speed of 1/30 while setting the ISO to the lowest possible value that will allow this shutter speed. This makes "sense," since Panasonic assumes most users will have an image stabilized lens mounted. But we're not "most users." Our M-mount lenses aren't stabilized and, with the 2x crop factor, they're actually short telephotos. Obviously, with my 35mm Nokton acting like a 70mm lens, I'd much prefer the camera choose a shutter speed in the 1/60 - 1/90 range, while bumping up the ISO to compensate. I can find no way to change the shutter speed from within Aperture Priority mode. Instead, I have to switch to Manual mode, set the desired shutter and bump up the ISO to compensate. By the time I've done this, the photo opportunity has gone away. It would be so much better if Panasonic issued a firmware update that would let an adapted lens user "program shift" the shutter speed in Aperture priority mode. If I could simply spin the front dial to increase the shutter speed, then the camera could simultaneously increase the ISO for me. That way, when the camera gives me a shutter speed of 1/30, I can quickly change it to 1/60 (or 1/90) and have the camera compensate with a higher ISO. Without having this feature, I'm missing a lot of shots (either because I'm switching into manual mode or I'm shooting with a shutter speed that's too low). Any of you other M-mount guys have a good solution?
Problem 2: I'm not really seeking a solution to this problem, so much as warning potential G1 buyers of another complication with M-Mount lenses: the distance scales on the M-mount lenses are useless. I instinctively knew they would be "off," but I had no idea they would be crazy off. For some reason, I thought there might be a linear conversion factor, which would allow me to still use the focus markings. That's not true. They're off logarithmically. For example, at a measured distance of 2M, the Nokton will display 1.1M. At a measured distance of 5M, the Nokton will display 2.2M. At a measured distance of 10M, the Nokton will display 2.9M. And, when focusing from my high-rise window at an object two full city blocks away, the Nokton displays a distance slightly under 5M! Needless to say, shoot-from-the-hip zone focusing is not really possible. I shot a LOT of drastically out of focus images before I figured this out.
Ultimately, I found the EVF focusing to work far better than I expected and, in general, have not missed too many shots because of it. I'm sure, as I have more time to practice, I'll get to know the "throw" of the Nokton's focus ring on the G1 body and will improve my 'hit rate' even further... if I could just fix that darned 1/30s default shutter speed problem!
-egor
nemjo
Avatar Challenge
Problem 2: I'm not really seeking a solution to this problem, so much as warning potential G1 buyers of another complication with M-Mount lenses: the distance scales on the M-mount lenses are useless. I instinctively knew they would be "off," but I had no idea they would be crazy off. For some reason, I thought there might be a linear conversion factor, which would allow me to still use the focus markings. That's not true. They're off logarithmically. For example, at a measured distance of 2M, the Nokton will display 1.1M. At a measured distance of 5M, the Nokton will display 2.2M. At a measured distance of 10M, the Nokton will display 2.9M. And, when focusing from my high-rise window at an object two full city blocks away, the Nokton displays a distance slightly under 5M! Needless to say, shoot-from-the-hip zone focusing is not really possible. I shot a LOT of drastically out of focus images before I figured this out.
Hi,
same here. I thought my adapter to be a bad copy.
But still thinking, that it won't be so necessarily.
However I can live with it as focusing is very easy on the G1, a properly made adapter shouldn't do that.
nemjo
Hi,
same here. I thought my adapter to be a bad copy.
But still thinking, that it won't be so necessarily.
However I can live with it as focusing is very easy on the G1, a properly made adapter shouldn't do that.
nemjo
Pickett Wilson
Veteran
So adapted lenses will focus past infinity? Or do the adapters only allow the use of part of the focus range of the RF lens? That's really interesting.
veraikon
xpanner
At least CV not. In Germany Ringfoto (trademark holder of Voigtländer and importer of CV Voigtländer lenses and cameras) places ads in print media:
Passt ( = fits)
[photos of some CV M lenses]
... mit einem Novoflex LEM-MFT Adapter an alle MicroFourthirds Kameras
(... with a Novoflex LEM-MFT adaptor to all µFT cameras...)
nemjo
Avatar Challenge
Way past infinity...